Member postings for Alex Collins

Hi David and welcome.

​Can we all however ask that you don't type in Block Caps.

On the internet typing in Caps is considered Shouting.

Thanks

Hi Roger

Works perfic on my pI as well.

I have hacked your code around to test the next number and output to a CSV. (I'm not a programmer)

Hi all.

​After a bit of Thought and effort, I have created a CSV file using the Python examples.

I thought about calculating everything with MySQL. As this will initially run on a raspberry pi, decided a flat database was best. If this expands to a real server I will use the Database to do the maths.

I have a LAMPpI (Linux, Apache, MySQL, Php, pI) server built.

Just need to dump the CSV into a database and write a lil web app in php.
I'm thinking a drop down for the divisions and a display of:

Divisions | Whole Turns | Part Turns | Plate Hole Count | Plate Number (Myford)

If i'm able to get on I will publish a beta later this week.

Alex.

This is so screaming out for a web based application.
​I may (with permission) steal some of the code snippets and have a bash.

Hi Rainbows.
​Looks like a nice well made tool you have there.

Q1: It's hard to judge the size of this.

You might get a small 3 arm puller under the bearing.

Maybe some wedges made to remove JT2 Chucks ?
Heat and cold in the right places always helps.

Q3: I'd be careful of using harsh liquids or solvents.

The crud looks well caked on there, and who knows what it is.
Toothbrush. Plastic pick and some compressed air ? Prolly best not to breathe to much of the dust in....

Just some ideas.

As others have said..
Pay Apple their money and get them to do it.

You have a Genuine Apple repair with Warrenty and genuine apple parts that won't explode or catch fire.

You can get an iPad apart but the chances of cracking the screen are very high.

There are also several wires and other bit to negociate whilst dismantling it. All very fine and fragile.

You can clean the surface rust off with Scotch Brite. I'd not use anything more aggressive than that. Certainly not wet n dry .....

​Give the bed a good coat of slideway oil afterwards.

Used HP Toners are a great source of Buffer Springs !!!!

Walk into a car spares place and get a service exchange. That way you know you hav​e an as good as new alternator.

I have also had the same issue. Not hard to do but does require removing the Headstock.

Neil has the right idea for removing the Lathe Spindle. A Bolt Press.

Any kind of knocking tool is not required and should not be used for the spindle.

You may also need to remove the Counter shaft that the other gear slides on. That shaft is Keyed and can be gently tapped out once the circlip is removed from the chuck side. The Rear bearing will come out with the shaft.​

Assembly is a simple reverse process.

I have been rather busy in the workshop over the weekend...

I now have a Simplex. Few bugs to iron out....

Axle pump made, fitted and working.

The Cylinder Drains were, um, well open or open or sometimes closed....
Attempt 1 at 'automatic' drains resulted in Closed, Closed or Closed (and a nice oily Shower).

This is my next attempt.


They will be Steam Operated using a PTFE diaphragm to close the holes in the top.
Still a bit of work and cleaning to do and the correct screws are on order.
Valve seems to work, will see when I get it all connected up.

Problem solved.

2 Spacers between the Cross slide and lead screw bracket.

M8 Nuts work perfic

Thanks for your comments.

I will look into the Long Cross slide idea but at £200 odd I may stick with the spacers.​

You are missing the point Martin...

The Cross slide is already at maximum.

The Centers are in so I can use a bit of sheet between the points to line em up with eachother.​

Hi All.
Can't get my head around​ this one, and yes it is rather early for a Sunday.

I need to make a Vacuum brake valve (well actually it's for my Steam operated drain cocks)...

Bit of .750" bar. Cut radial slots into the end. Perfic for the dividing head me thinks. Bar in the Dividing head, .062" cutter in the lathe chuck

Vertical slide is mounted on the rear Cross slide T Slot, square to the cross slide.
Dividing head is bolted to the vertical slide.

How do you get the spindles to line up ?

Quick Update.
Steamed her up at the wee​kend on Rollers.

New pump was a bit tight to start with. It soon bedded in.
Piston is a 3 part affair. PEEK Plastic ends with a Teflon seal held together with an M6 SS Nylock Nut on the 10mm piston rod. (I have Metric Reamers)
Pump Body and Gland are Brass. The bore is 16mm rather than 5/8 for the same reason.

The pump keeps up with the Boiler whilst on rollers. Will see next week if I get her onto the track how it works in real life.

Thanks again to everyone for your thoughts, comments and advice.

Hi.
Use an old PC Power suppl​y. They are as good as free from old computers.

Google the Pin Outs. I made one with screw down Terminals on the top.

Pump made, Tested and fitted.

It sucks water in on the Back Stroke as expected.
It blows water out on both forward and Back strokes. More on the forward than back.
I was able to generate just under 150 PSI of pressure with the pump. ​More than enough to feed the boiler.

Another issue was the Teflon Seal on the blowdown valve.
The Teflon squashed itself and you guessed it, refused to release.
New Blowdown made with a pipe for Boiler filling.

It's using an O ring which pushes inside a hole to produce the seal.

After 2 failed attempts at the Puddleduck engine, this was my first engine that ran.

**LINK**
 

Edited By Alex Collins on 13/11/2015 21:31:40

What I have found running with just the injector was it's far to much and uses a lot of steam. The water level rises and I start to lose pressure. Shut the injector down at ~ 40 psi then the water drops - need more and the injector refuses to pick up. That's what I mean by "it was hard work driving"
Please don't get me wrong, the injectors are good and work well. I'd prefer to have a pump that pretty much looks after the boiler and use the injector only when needed.
I have a 16 oz (no. 2 ?) on there at the moment.

Good progress tonight. The brass is cut to size and roughed out. Decided to leave the bore Blind rather than make an end cap so drilled and reamed it 1/4" short. Still plenty of room for the ports.
All the drilling is done, Gland is made and holes tapped.

After much deliberation, all 3 pumps have their advantages. The debate in the thread says that all the designs work and are suitable for this loco. ​

I'm going to build the Pump from the Book. Why ?
It's a well tried and tested interesting design with a small revision over the 1968 ME Drawings.

The Super Simplex and Double acting (1980) Pumps will both require Pipework mods. Not a huge deal but extra work. I can see no real advantage with either of these pumps. If anything they have added complexity.

The piston I'm going to make in 3 parts. 2 Discs with a Teflon piston ring that I can squeeze.
I have M14X1 taps n dies for the Gland nut.

Thank you all again for your Input.

Alex.