Boxford VM-30 Table Feed Lash

Hello, just bought a used Boxford VM-30. Seems in good order but the hand wheels that move the table have up to 1.5 to 2 turns in them before the table starts to move. The X movement is particularly bad in that in one direction the wheel moves about 5mm laterally away from the table before the table moves. Any thoughts or options gratefully received, thanks. Also anyone with such a machine who is willing to hear any further beginners questions? I've years of experience on Bridgeport turret mills but never saw a VM-30 till yesterday when it arrived.

Hi Dave,
It sounds like the thrust bearings on the end of the lead screws need adjusting to remove the play in them. I am not familiar with your mill but on my Seig X3 there is a nut and a lock nut that retains the hand wheel and also adjusts the thrust bearings.

Les.

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I have a VM-30.

Take up any backlash with the wheel. Place a spanner socket onto the wheel. (or anything that will enable the hex screw to be cleared) Tap / thump the socket while its in contact with the wheel with a soft hammer / mallet. Tighten the hex screw. Repeat if required.

Don't use a 16 pound sledge hammer swung over your head.

Go steady and come back if this is not the problem.

Nick

Les/Nick, thanks for your replies. I'm back where the machine is on Monday so I'll take a look then, cheers.

Nick, thanks you were correct all the lash was in the fitting of the wheels themselves. After some 'chapping' both wheels are very much improved, cheers, Dave.

If you have any backlash on the leadscrew itself, the VM30 has split leadscrew nuts with a small screw to adjust the closing amount. Check on the unworn outer limits of the leadscrew travel to avoid overtightening, centre travel leadscrew wear will show up as a looser fit.

.

Glad it worked out for you.

The only reason I knew this is because when I had mine delivered I promptly decided to take the X and Y tables of to give everything a good clean and lube. I had the same problem as you upon reassembly. I however was in the fortunate position that I realised it was something I had done and not wear on the machine because it was fine before I stripped it.

Regards, Nick

Sorry have a few more questions. Apologies have no manual for this machine.

Does the gearbox at the front of the head have an oil level that needs checked and topped up? If so any tips on doing this?

Also what are the red wobbly panels at the front and RHS of the base unit at floor level. They seem spring loaded no idea what they are for.

Thanks again for any advice, best regards, Dave.

Are they kick switches to kill the power?

The gearbox takes grease not oil. It's a specific grade (I forget which) but it's quite a 'runny' one that is also known as 'self leveling grease' - I used to play rugby with the owner of Rock Oil (company) I asked him what I needed and he gave me a big tub of the stuff. I will check tonight when I get home what spec it is. But it's a sod and a half to get it in.

Jason is right. They are kick emergency stop switches. Which reminds me I have to connect mine up into my inverter control circuit.

Nick

Brilliant that IS what they are and they also work. Thanks! Dave.

Semi liquid grease, if I remember correctly around 14 fluid oz (2 plastic drinking cups). Castol product, I can find the type if anybody wants to know. Again I have parts of the manual and some drawings if I can find them.

The clue was the 5mm movement. To get 5mm of backlash in a screw without it being totally stripped it would need to have a pitch of at least 10mm - which would be a very big milling machine.

Neil

Or a loose nut, did have that on my lathe where the nut came loose from the underside of the cross slide.

J

Dave Barr

As promised. Original gearbox lube was BP Energrease F600-EP, stated in Handbook as "should not require attention". From personal experience there is some leakage in use and storage. Available alternative is Castrol Spherol 00 EPO, refill is 280cc for a reasonably clear gearbox. Dip level from top of gearbox (remove taper plug upper left front top) appears to be 65mm down.

If you must look inside, tilt head to 45 degrees clockwise, remove side panel (long ones) and then remove gear box side panel screws, break sealing and remove metal panel. Clean and replace sealant (Hylomar Universal Blue Sealant) before reassembly.

Brilliant! many thanks this is vital info I really need will get this lube ordered up next week cheers Dave.

I too have a VM30. Great little machines. Your questions seem to have been answered by others. When I wanted to top up the gearbox I found it difficult to obtain the lubricant in small quantities but eventually found that Morris Oils do an equivalent in a small(ish) tin.

Cheers Rex I found 500 gram tubs online at the National Motorcycle Museum shop so have ordered from there.

That sounds like about the same size. Should last you ages,

Nick your kick switches (emergency stop switches) should be wired into the mains supply to the inverter ! Ok before everyone shouts you should not kill the power to the inverter whilst working agreed but when you operate an E/S you want the thing to stop.

H