Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.

Having located my long lost grill grinding jig I thought now I can get on and modify it according to Graham Meek's posting. What do I find, it has been spirited away, that is unless I have been looking in the wrong place. My drawer full of drills needing grinding will now have to wait untill I need to use them, that is unless one of you guys has the details. I do have a rough idea of the modifications but it would help if I could see the original post.

Its on the Web, PM about to be sent

Jason, your a hero, many thanks. should keep me out of mischief for the next couple of weeks.

Just sent you another link

sorry to abuse your goodwill Jason, Please can you send me a link too.

Many thanks Jason, the one thing I need and which is not shown in either of the links is the ofset in the large dia pivot for the pivot pin. I suspect that it is in the order of 1/4" or 6mm, if anyone can remember I would be most grateful, the rest I am quite comfortable with.

Non so blind as them that can't see. When you open your eyes all is revealed, or you read instead of skimming it is according to Gray 5mm or thereabouts.

I arrived here expecting to finally have the answer to how to use the 'attachment' that came with my U2 Chinese knock off Deckel tool and cutter grinder to find a reference to a post that doesn't exist and 8 pages that don't appear provide the information either.

Jason - if you could PM the missing part please, it would be appreciated? I may then be able to make some sense of the other 8 pages. Why is it missing anyway?

I'll add that not having understandable instructions for the U2. For my larger drill sizes I used the instructions for 4 facet drill grinding for the Quorn and found them to be far superior to the original grind. However, being able to use the 'attachment' would be preferable for the smaller sizes.

Pete

I for one can't understand the reason behind deleting posts which were put on by a 'former member', it makes no sense and isn't the first time it has happened.

Tony

Conflict of Magazine publishing interest I suspect, apart from the hurtful comments made at the time.

Posts are only removed if they break forum rules or at the request of the poster, which may be for any of several legitimate reasons.

Neil

So, what is the geometry that allows a drill to be able to drill 1000's of holes ?

Are there any pictures for this geometry ?

Neil

4-facet drill geometry is very good,. Wait a few weeks for the 25 Years of MEW special and you may be rewarded

Neil

What a free set of 4-facet drills as a gift with each copy

This thread got me searching again for some better instructions for my Chinese Deckel SO clone. Success! if you've got one search Yahoo groups for the Quorn group sign up for the Quorn3 group (other than) and check out the files section.

Its clear to me now that the Chinese translated the Deckel SO manual into Chinese and then it was re-translated back into English. My machine came with a Chinese manual, I can't read it but the relationship is clear. If you've got a copy of the English manual available on the RGD site you can see the same errors that have crept into the Chinese version in the original translation. (e.g. paragraph breaks, '13' should be 13deg etc)

Anyway it all makes sense now, and the instructions match the diagram with the control labels.

Now to get my drill grinding attachment to do something sensible and then see if Graham's improvements can be accommodated.

Pete

Biggest problem with the Chinese clones is they are advertised as a tool and cutter grinder when they are not.

They are a single lip cutter grinder made for regrinding and making engraving cutters for the Deckel and Alexander engraving machines.

At this task they exceed very well, at tool and cutter grinding they suck.

The main reason being is that an engraving cutter is ground on the left hand side of the cutter as it points away from you. A milling cutter is ground on the right. On the Clones the wheel is on the left of the cutter and you have to jump thru hoops to get the wheel on the right hand side of a milling cutter.

This is not sour grapes, I have one and have spent ages trying to regrind various general cutters with it. Not saying it's impossible to use but it's about as intuitive as using a mill stone.

However it makes a brilliant job of grinding engraving cutters which ironically is what the original was designed for.

Long, short, Deckel and Alexandra never advertised this as a tool and cutter grinder.

John

Agreed, I've a limited success on sharpening milling cutters as well. However, I'm interested in getting the drill sharpening attachment to do something sensible. as I've a growing stock of blunt drills that need dealing with. The instructions to hand until yesterday were far from intuitive but now there's a chance of success and even better if Graham's tips can be applied.

Pete

So I have the picador setup as shown. Having read some of Harold Hall 'tool and cutter grinding' (Most excellent and highly recommendable imho) I agree the drill is too far out. Even correcting this I have trouble with the secondary relief which is so bad that it leads the cutting edge and rubs on the workpiece. I am not sure how to correct . The drill is a chinese one from Costco to try , HSS and when sharp is surprisingly good.

Edited By capnahab on 12/04/2015 13:10:55

Hi Capnahab,

You have the drill sticking out way too far! Try bringing it back in and you should see the geometry change.

Tony

Sorry Tony , Perhaps I didn't make it clear, Yes after reading Harold I corrected that and went to having the drill protruding about 1/16 as per the box instructions. The pictures of the drill are after  that .

Edited By capnahab on 12/04/2015 13:57:07

Edited By capnahab on 12/04/2015 14:01:36