VFD. XSY AT4 220v 1phase to 380v 3phase advice sort

I always took P00 as being the max V that the unit could output. The reason being that P02 and P04 have a cap of either 220V or 380V which I believe is determined by P00. Anyway I have my P00 set at 380V and it is fed a 220-230V supply.

Also if you have settings that you cannot change you need to input the default "0" password into P09. i.e. jusrt go into param update mode, go to input mode on P09 and "set" the value to 0. This should unlock everything. Did for me.

Cheers,

James.

I can't see anywhere in the listing, or on the specification plate, where it says the output voltage is 380VAC phase to phase?

Andrew

Sorry Greg, Senior moment!

James is correct . P000 on mine is set at 380V..

Andrew,

In the manual it states AT4 output phase to phase is 380v

Thanks; it's not that common to have single phase in and 380V 3-phase out. I'm surprised the listings don't make more of it.

Andrew

Ill try to enter the password and see if I can change P000.

This thing spins my motor up nicely, make no mistake about it, but unable to measure RPM.

BTW, my motor is in DELTA!.

I have been reading with interest the threads relating to the the XSY inverter. Would a reader please tell me the make of the XSY 2.2 Kw inverter, could it be a Huanyang ? John

You're forgiven! I am getting there too.

It certainly isn't, but it looks to me that its a sort of copy. It works. I can recommend, but you need to learn the new Chin-glish language. At least my manual is written in that :D

Could be here

Emgee

Deleted

Edited By JasonB on 05/08/2020 06:52:38

That protective earth (PE) connection looks pretty scary. Red insulation and a straght bit of solder tinned wire under a PCB mounting screw, The wire clearly is not large enough to carry fault currents on a system fused for 3kW (13A). Solder tinned wires (tin plated is different) should never be used under screw or crimp connections, The solder cold flows under pressure and a bad joint results. Used to be common with mains leads before pre-fitted plugs to find the leads solder tinned but this was found to be the cause of loose connetions and over-heaing plugs. Red wire on a PE is a technical breach of the acceptable standards.

These things are a liability. As a minimum they must be inside a suitable enclosure. The user is legally responsible for making sure the installation is compliant with all relevant safety and EMI/EMC standards. In practice this does not happen.

Robert G8RPI.

Well, I have tried! Still don’t work. I set P002 to 190V but P000 still don’t go over 220V.
In fact if I try to spin up the motor this way it gives me I thing Err 01, which is over current protection!

HOW DO YOU DO A FACTORY RESET ON THIS THING?

Greg

Greg,

I’ve not done or found out how to do a factory reset, however a couple of other posters seem to have done so.

I presume your terminals and labelling look identical to those in my photos. There seems to be a difference between an AT1 (220v) and an AT4 (380v).

The only other external identification between an AT1 and an AT4 seems to be the label on the terminal cover. Ie someone could have fitted an AT4 terminal cover to an AT1 which might explain why you can’t set P000 to 380v

I did once try to up load a file with all my parameter settings but couldn’t because it apparently had too many characters. I’ll try again in the next couple of days.

Greg,

If it is truly an AT4, you should have no trouble setting P0 to default 380v and usually they arrive correctly programmed anyway. Check the boards as Andrew suggests. Usually AT1 have the earth on the incomer side and NOT on the control side as with the AT4 - but there could be variants.

I strongly suggest before you resort to resetting, that you fully work your way through the manual and parameters and understand the important ones that relate to your intended operation. A full reset may result in some very strange parameter conditions and unintended consequences (in my experience).

Set up on the bench and go through all of the significant parameters as stored in the device and write them down. try to check and change the ones you want again and check the running. Try to understand the manual - most of the info is there, just not in a helpful form.

If you really want to do a full reset have regard to Parameter P77 and the associated reset condition 54321. but take heed, you are likely to get some unexpected consequences and may need to re enter some of the parameters you wrote down from interrogating the registers. In my case I was able to restore most functionality except for the ramp times which now requires dividing the required Hz/s by10!

Take very, very great care with these AT4 devices, they output very high peak voltages at high currents.

Guys, thank you ever so much for y'all input.

I went back to the vendor and they asked me to go and have it fixed somewhere near me and they shall bear the costs. That means one thing I guess... yep its a sort of mutant between 220V and 380V. dang!

Hence why it doesn't do what yours does.

So I am now getting a new one, hopefully a working one this time.

Greg

Hey Rob,

could you pls have a look at this:

**LINK**

What do you suggest what to do? I kind of figured I ground my motor to the VFD's PE, but you kinda made me change my mind. (This is the only ref point that I could call GND.)

What shall I Do?

Thanks, Greg

Fascinating.

From the photos all I can see are two large electrolytic caps, are there any more? To boost the incoming 220V to 440V needs two caps, then you also need at least one smoothing cap on the 400V DC rail.

Can't read the voltage rating of the two obvious caps.

With extreme care, is it possible to measure the voltage on the two caps? If they are the boost caps then each will have about 240V or so, if the DC rail cap then it will have 440V or so.

If there isn't a 400V DC rail inside the VFD then not going to get 380V AC out.

Not sure if its exactly the same as the one I looked inside but that only had the voltage doublers caps so I assumed they were also the smoothing caps.

It also had a small module to reduce the surge switch on when the cap were initially charging and the rail voltage was 660v dc..

Peter

After all the discussion and theory to go with it, wouldn't be easier to dig out the motor Star point and bring out the 3 end to the terminal box , then buy a inverter with 3 Ph and 220 out. I remember some excellent picture on here together with an explanation of what to maybe a year or so ago. Its not so difficult to do, once you have the motor apart.. John

True, but no-one said how that high voltage rail should be produced.

In my youth, we said the transformer was too small if you could lift a power supply! Because everything worked at 50Hz, large components were essential. Voltage doublers and other compromises were common, despite their disadvantages. Modern designers have more choice. For example mains can be converted to any AC frequency he chooses. Then volts can be stepped up with a high-frequency transformer because at typical carrier frequencies (2kHz to 20kHz) they're tiny. Mice compared with the elephants needed to work efficiently at 50Hz.

Difficult to generalise about the merits of a VFD without studying it's circuit diagram, component ratings and cooling arrangements. I'd not fret about buying a high-voltage VFD if I needed one, especially now they're affordable.

Dave