Lady Stephanie

Hello Nick,

I'm afraid your photo is the victim of the 'webkit-fake-url' which replaces the actual image location with a dummy one so when you post into websites they can't find the image. This may be because you are using safari or some other reason.

Neil

Hi Neil,

Thanks for the heads up on this problem - hopefully it''s OK now and visible to everyone:

Rgds - Nick.

Haven't had much shed time over the last fortnight. I have done some small parts and made a start on the radius links, may have more pics next week.

Looks like your casting kit has more brass parts than the gun metal I had Nick.
Are you not tempted to finish it? I wondered about working in fiddly miniature too, but a set of magnifying goggles helped no end.

After a fortnight moving the sister-in-law and a lurgy I'm trying to get on with Lady Stephanie again. Got the parallel motion roughed out.

Yea !

Hi John - apologies for not responding to your earlier comment - work / Christmas / New Year / etc got in the way.

I've come to the (realistic) conclusion that my practical skill don't stretch this into miniature / high precision model making. I also don't want to scrap any of the castings trying to disprove this!

So, I'm going to post it in the classified section.

Cheers - Nick

Nick, you have a personal message.

Rod

Pump gear drilled and tapped. It still needs some M2 Allen bolts for assembly and the flanges filed to match. Once the 3/16" bronze balls arrive I can pop them in and file the plugs flush.

John, Allen head bolts are not really prototypical, although they are easier to get at to tighten in these small sizes. Wee hex head bolts, or better still studs and nuts, you can all ways Loctite the nuts to the studs if that's more convenient.
Ian S C

The Allen screws are for the bits underneath and not easily seen. I have some M2 brass nuts on order for the showing parts.

The bronze balls arrived today and are installed. The valves seem to work well.

One thing about most cap head screws that I'v used, they are stronger than slotted head screws, although I use quite a few 1/8" BSW screws. I think that worse than Allen head screws on a model is a nicely finished steam engine held together with Philips head screws.

Don't worry about me, I tend to go off every now and then, quite harmless really.

Ian S C

     No worries Ian, how else will I learn

     A few more fiddly jobs done today. Next step; the governor....

     New side rods too, I wasn't happy with the first pair, a bit sloppy and the valve needs all the motion it can get.

Edited By john carruthers on 16/01/2016 14:46:16

Edited By john carruthers on 16/01/2016 14:47:50

Every week a little further.
I can't do much more until I make or buy some bevel gears.
Got the governor pulleys and pedestal made, then lagged the cylinder.
I may start the governor arms, the drawings call for 14BA threads but I shall use a 1mm tap and die I have already.

There is no real need to fit the bevel gears all they do is turn the drive 90 degrees - you can just fit the pulley to the governor shaft and twist the belt.

Neil

Something to think about....

What did you use for the governor drive belt on yours, Neil ?

I looked at the price of 7/16" PB balls and decided to have a go myself.
I made up a radius tool some months ago and set it up this morning.
Everything worked as planned; almost, only had to throw two away.

Edited By john carruthers on 27/01/2016 15:12:44

The governor is mostly done now, it still needs the bevel gears, a throttle and linkage.

My first attempt at a bevel gear, 15T, 32DP.