Ray Lyons | 09/03/2015 07:18:50 |
200 forum posts 1 photos | Its great to see the modern woodworker with his/her mobile workshop equipped with power tools. As an apprentice (many years ago) I worked on a building site where there were gangs of tradesmen assigned to certain jobs, roofs, joists, doors etc., At 19 I was in a group fitting and hanging doors,. There were about six of us, each working on our own in separate houses. The average door count to fit and hang was 10 a day. Locks and stops were followed to complete. "Penny" joints were required on all doors but I think we cheated by using a 1 1/2" oval nail to set the gap, usually enough for 3 coats of paint. The door bottom was measured and cut to a line scribed using the thickness of a folding rule run along the floor. This would be enough to just clear most standard carpet I would think that carpenters today, with all the power tools and jigs would finish a house in half the time. I wonder how much bonus they earn, I got an extra 10 shillings a week for completing two houses. |
Martin Kyte | 09/03/2015 09:12:16 |
![]() 3445 forum posts 62 photos | Well said Phil. It's easy to get too fixated on machinery and forget the simple hand methods. Martin |
Speedy Builder5 | 09/03/2015 11:17:10 |
2878 forum posts 248 photos | Here in France, you buy a door frame with the door and lock already fitted - just need the door furniture to finish it. The hinges are the screw in type where you can adjust the fit as the frame / house moves and when you want to, the door just lifts off the hinge pins. It beats me why we still use flap hinges in the UK. To be fair, French doors are rebated as opposed to UK flush, but a rebated door with additional rebates in the frame or stops gives a double seal and gets rid of that unsightly gap around the door. |
Neil Wyatt | 09/03/2015 11:27:25 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Our house (1937) has riser hinges on most doors. Most have needed attention because of the extra weight of 1970s hardboard on both sides of the doors Neil |
john jennings 1 | 09/03/2015 11:34:43 |
69 forum posts | Two gentle riposts In his second posting Wallace the originator of this thread wrote Basically, I need to fit new doors and frames - so it's locks, hinges and probably tenon joints or biscuits for the frame transoms. Unfortunately, they're not standard sizes so it's going to have to be diy or lodsa money (My italics/bold) nuff said ? Why is a bandsaw safer than a table saw Well my door had all the bits large and small "machined" using the bandsaw cutting into length/ width/ mitering which meant working pretty near the blade and needing a good view and being very naughty removing the guard. My experience is that it is very difficult to cut your self with a band saw , the only time I have got near was cross cutting rather large logs with a coarse blade which caught them and spun out of control! Ten digits John |
Martin Kyte | 09/03/2015 11:53:37 |
![]() 3445 forum posts 62 photos | Re Bandsaws/table saws. 1. Bandsaws don't kick back. Table saws can. This is when the blade picks up the back of the cut and lifts the work. the piece of timber can then pick up on the blade and get ejected towards the operator. Really only a problem when ripping. 2. You cannot see the teeth on a circular saw. They tend to have deeper spaces between teeth and all you see it the solid center. The cutting edge is somewhat in front of this and the unwary stand there puzzling why his fingers are disappearing while he cannot see whats causing it. This applies to the sizes of saws usually found in the home workshop. Bandsaws for mill work obviously get a lot bigger than that and you cannot see the teeth on them either. All saws are hazardous and you should not be getting body parts anywhere near the cutting edges in the first place. regards Martin
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Neil Wyatt | 10/03/2015 21:53:24 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Have you seen THIS? Neil |
JasonB | 11/03/2015 07:35:35 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Posted by Neil Wyatt on 10/03/2015 21:53:24:
Have you seen THIS? Neil Ideal for the US market where they tend to run their saws without riving knives or crown gaurds far more and unprotected Dado sets Its been around for a while but you don't see many fitted over here. What is nice is the large off button, I have something in the same position on my tablesaw which is ideally placed to stop the saw with a nudge of your knee, you soon develope an instinct to where it is. Edited By JasonB on 11/03/2015 07:37:34 |
KWIL | 11/03/2015 10:55:19 |
3681 forum posts 70 photos | Rule 1 always have a riving knfe Rule 2 always keep your hands, fingers away from the cutting area, use a push stick or other guiding method Rule 3 if you use your hands, always beyond the cutting line just as you always keep your hands behind the knife or chisel (you dont? Why not?) Watch you cannot slip or fall onto the cutting line. I have a large radial table saw (12" dia TCT blades), one hand pulls the saw/motor carriage along the track with a thumb holding the safety switch, the other stays well way from the cutting line. Have I ever cut myself, yes but like John I still have all the fingers in good working order. By the way you can never have a tool that is too sharp, sharp tools work better and with less effort, less effort means more control. 'Nuff said. been woodworking seriously for nearly 60 years so must have learnt something about skills and staying alive. |
Circlip | 11/03/2015 11:00:58 |
1723 forum posts | Yes, but have you seen this :- **LINK**
Regards Ian |
Jon Gibbs | 11/03/2015 12:07:55 |
750 forum posts | Hi Ian, He could use a bandsaw for that job and IMHO it'd be much safer as more of the blade'd be guarded. In his favour though he never gets close to the blade centre and never past it so kick-back will not be a big issue. It's more the objective danger of that exposed blade - eek!. Having it close to the ground just makes matter worse. Lovely timber though Jon |
JasonB | 11/03/2015 12:11:39 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | That looks quite safe, well at least compared to this guy cutting cedar shingles, bet ge does not need to trim his finger nails |
Jon Gibbs | 11/03/2015 14:18:52 |
750 forum posts | That doesn't bear thinking about does it? At least his hearing will be ok though Jon |
KWIL | 11/03/2015 14:35:35 |
3681 forum posts 70 photos | No Elfins there then? |
Former Member | 09/02/2022 18:29:13 |
[This posting has been removed] | |
Steve Pavey | 09/02/2022 23:06:58 |
369 forum posts 41 photos | Posted by jerry bakermr on 09/02/2022 18:29:13:
I only do woodworking when it's necessary, although I've built two houses, largely with a chainsaw. You don't need a router; I have a cheap one that has saved me a lot of money when it comes to skirting board and trimming. I created doors out of 2x2s nailed together in a frame form and covered both sides with ply, as well as door frames out of 2x4s and architrave to disguise the connections. A drill and a good chisel are required for the locks and hinges. I don't want to lead people down the wrong path, but it is possible. The router is safe; just maintain a tight grasp and, as previously stated, do not climb the mill. Err.. the thread is seven years old, so I think he’s got his doors sorted now. And in any case, your advice is the same as that given by someone else on page 1, post no 10. Just saying.. |
Former Member | 10/02/2022 22:39:10 |
[This posting has been removed] |
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