drilling steel with 230v hand drill

Couple of points.

Overheating the drill. Can't speak for modern drills - mine is 25+ years old - but the standard instruction back then was to run it off load at maximum speed until the exit air startes to feel cool or cold. My first drills, back in the early 1960's used to burn out fairly easily, but the present drill is a lot tougher and certainly seems able to cope with anything I have thrown at it without too much bother, including jamming on full power - see below.

Drill power & jamming.

In my younger days, ie I know I'm not as strong as I used to be, if my 400 Watt drill on slow speed jammed, it would always twist the drill body through 90° before I could hold it and release the trigger. Which perhaps says something about my reaction times in that I could hold the thing faster than I could release the non-locked trigger. So, yes, be a bit careful of a 650 Watt drill if on mechanical slow speed, and do not use the trigger lock.

Happy drilling (I find it therapeutic using a powerful drill after the namby-pamby battery drills!)

Peter G. Shaw

I have removed a hardened stud by drilling it with a masonry bit in a hand drill, then using a stud extractor.

If there is space and you (or a mate) can weld, putting a bar on the end might be the easiest solution.

Neil

I think we are wasting our time.

Probably another drive by posting

hi,

Sorry I have been away. I managed to drill/grind it out using friends pillar drill and multiple sharpenings of three carbide tipped drills; then hellicoiled it. Trust me this was most frustrating.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions. I would never have considered using carbide tipped drills, but it works!

Kind regards Nick

I was going to suggest that for a 12 mm thread (before you drill down the middle), drill two parallel holes, about 4 mm to 5 mm, drive in two pins and use a spanner to unscrew the threaded part.

Ian S C