TeVe | 21/11/2012 15:16:15 |
![]() 22 forum posts 11 photos |
Posted by Douglas Johnston on 21/11/2012 13:53:21:
Hi Terje, The guillotine you have is the exact one I tried to make a copy of, using a couple of photographs found on a website. If you have time could you possibly make a few measurements which would assist me in making my one work. ................................. Doug Hi Doug,
I will do tomorrow.
Terje |
TeVe | 22/11/2012 13:42:56 |
![]() 22 forum posts 11 photos |
Posted by Douglas Johnston on 21/11/2012 13:53:21:
Hi Terje, The guillotine you have is the exact one I tried to make a copy of, using a couple of photographs found on a website. If you have time could you possibly make a few measurements which would assist me in making my one work. The main dimensions I would like to have are these:- (1) diameter of the two vertical pillars (2) diameter of the horizontal bar that the handle is fixed to (3) the centre to centre distance of one of the links connecting the horizontal bar to the top of the upper blade carrier (4) the same dimension for one of the links connecting the end of the horizontal bar to the block at the top of the vertical pillar (5) the distance from the centre of a vertical pillar to the centre of where the previous link pivots If you can oblige I will be most grateful, Doug Hi Doug If I understand you correctly the dimensions are: 1 - 25mm 2 - 20mm 3 - 52mm 4 - 25mm 5 - 35mm If you send me your email adress in a PM I will return a scan of the instruction sheet. Terje |
Douglas Johnston | 22/11/2012 16:25:19 |
![]() 814 forum posts 36 photos | Thanks Terje, I will have a good look at these dimensions and see if I can improve my guillotine. I have sent you a PM. Doug |
Fuzzy | 22/11/2012 20:14:07 |
9 forum posts | I use tin snips to cut PCB without problem. These are old style, straight line cutting only snips. "Aviation" snips do not work. Picture of tin snips is at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snips. If you close the snips completely it will rip the PCB So you have to cut a bit, then move snips forward and cut again. For longer cuts I use a "plate shear" - http://www.grizzly.com/products/Plate-Shear-8-/T23100 Both the snips and the shear have blades which are parallel to each other. Blades are very flat and snugly oriented toward each other. Grant |
Springbok | 23/11/2012 06:36:44 |
![]() 879 forum posts 34 photos | Just a thought, how about a tile cutter that would score your PCB for snapping. the type you run back etc on the tile. not that I will ever cut a PCB but do admire the chaps who can take a pile of little electronic bits solder them in and it works. Bob |
thomas oliver 2 | 24/11/2012 21:49:59 |
110 forum posts | Guillotine blades are ground to an exponential curve so that they present a constant cutting angle aand the pressure applied will remain constant.. Tomol |
John Stevenson | 24/11/2012 22:31:33 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Terry, Sorry forgot to check this thread, forgot I'd posted in it.
The PCB is actually a copy of a board. The original is on the web as a PDF, it's the board for Steve Ward's [ Kwackers ] copy of the Division Master.
The PDF was opened in VCarve pro which will open PDF files, exported as a DXF into my favorite CAD program, cleaned up and then taken back into VCarve pro and processed.
I do it this way as my CAD program, like most CAD programs has more facilites than combined programs like VCarve. Nothing wrong with VCarve but it's more a CAM package than CAD. |
Peter Bell | 24/07/2016 08:29:36 |
399 forum posts 167 photos | John, Hope its ok to revive such an old thread. Just wonder if you still make your pcb this way using Vcarve? Thanks Peter |
Howi | 24/07/2016 09:16:37 |
![]() 442 forum posts 19 photos | Surely it must be cheaper to buy the ready made PCB, even buying the complete component package is quite cheap. Hardly worth the effort, I like making electronics but cost effectiveness has to come into play. Â |
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