JasonB | 08/11/2022 19:36:38 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | If you have a mill I would forget about marking out and punching the holes. Either locate the edge/end of the 6x6 bar and then use the handwheels or DRO to position the spindle where you want the hole and then make a dimple with a spot drill before changing to a good quality twist drill. If all holes are in the same position in 56 bits of brass add some stops so you only need to workout the position once. Or locate your hole as above and just go straight at it with a split point stub drill, again good quaility such as Dormer A022 series. Run your mill at it's top speed |
Bill Phinn | 08/11/2022 19:47:01 |
1076 forum posts 129 photos | Posted by Andy Seal on 08/11/2022 09:03:37:
Hi guys Despite ensuring everything is level I cannot seem to drill a hole so that it is exactly in the right place on the reverse side. ...well I've tried it all ways , clamped in milling machine, clamped in movable vice on pillar drill so as to enable the drill to find the punch hole Things to consider that may not have been explicitly mentioned: 1. Are the head/quill of your mill and bench drill plumb to the table and/or vice, both before and during drilling? 2. Are you resting the material to be drilled on parallels in the vice[s]? If not, how are you ensuring it is level? 3. Are the three sides of the material in contact with the vice truly square? 4. Are the vices holding the material firmly so that it can't move during drilling?
Things others have mentioned and I will too: 5. Make sure your drill is ground properly from new. Best way of ensuring this if you can't tell is never to buy cheap drills. A Dormer A120 would be my choice. A 2.5mm one I've got has flawlessly drilled hundreds of through holes in brass. For drilling brass I don't find it necessary to take the sharp edge off the lips when the drill is below 1/8" diameter. However, the bigger the drill is the more vital it is if you're going to be through-drilling brass with them. 6. Spot drill first even if the 2.5mm twist drill is a split point.
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Andy Seal | 08/11/2022 20:49:58 |
5 forum posts | Thanks to all who provided help with my problem I'm going through all of your suggestions .couldn't believe how much response I got, amazing |
Mick B1 | 08/11/2022 21:13:47 |
2444 forum posts 139 photos | Posted by JasonB on 08/11/2022 19:36:38:
... Or locate your hole as above and just go straight at it with a split point stub drill, again good quaility such as Dormer A022 series. Run your mill at it's top speed If you do that, minimise protrusion as others have said, feed *very* gently at the start and loiter as the point cuts its initial location in the surface - gives the best chance for a true start and straight follow-through. Can save faffing with centre- or spot-drills. |
Huub | 08/11/2022 22:35:32 |
220 forum posts 20 photos | If you are using a mill, then check if the mill quill is square to the table. You can do this by placing an indicator in the chuck and measure a square object. A 1,2,3 block or an angle block. Measure on both sides (X and Y). edit: Checkout this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asmH4HjZLRY
Edited By Huub on 08/11/2022 22:45:58 Edited By Huub on 08/11/2022 22:48:12 |
Dell | 09/11/2022 19:05:25 |
![]() 230 forum posts 44 photos | I drill down to 0.3mm and although it’s a pain I always drill brass with a doctored drill for brass because when it bites it can pull the drill bit to the side it bites, I have a separate set for brass. Dell |
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