Some challenging parts in this one !
Brian John | 05/09/2016 08:51:24 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | Machinery House from whom I bought the Optimum lathe have a generic vertical mill slide which will fit my lathe. I simply remove the top slide by undoing one bolt and use the same bolt to attach the slide to the carriage. I am not sure if the Taig attaches so simply. The generic slide is also metric. They also have the four jaw chuck for this lathe but that will only be of use for this machine whereas I can use the vertical mill slide on any lathe. What size milling tool (to fit in the lathe chuck) should I be using to make this cylinder ? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/End-Mill-Cutters-HSS Edited By Brian John on 05/09/2016 09:10:39 |
Michael Gilligan | 05/09/2016 13:12:48 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Brian John on 05/09/2016 08:51:24:
Machinery House from whom I bought the Optimum lathe have a generic vertical mill slide which will fit my lathe. . Brian, I cannot advise from experience [as I only have Myford and Pultra vertical slides] ... But I think you will find John and Neil recommending the Taig. ... it appears to be well designed and constructed. MichaelG. |
JasonB | 05/09/2016 13:18:04 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | And before you part with your cash maybe John W could give a few sizes so you can make sure it will fit your machine. Bearing in mind you are rather limited on the facilities to do any modifications to the mounting method etc. |
Brian John | 07/09/2016 08:29:05 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | Taig Australia have not responded to my emails nor is there a phone number on their website. Machinery House do not have the generic milling slide in stock and will not have them until November.....even that sounds like ''maybe''. So I will have to source something from overseas. This looks good but I often have problems when ordering from India : In the mean time I have completed all the drilling and tapping for the frame and supports. I am using socket head bolts rather than the supplied hex head bolts as they are much easier to work with. I have also substituted hex bar for the supplied square section bar for the two cross supports as the hex bar is much easier to tap and drill on the ends. The square bar would have required a jig for that. I am surprised that they have not used bearings in the crank supports. I am still having problems with the crank : I should have drilled them together as they are not parallel with each other. I will have to order another set of crank plates and give it another go. Edited By Brian John on 07/09/2016 08:30:04 Edited By Brian John on 07/09/2016 08:34:37 |
Michael Gilligan | 07/09/2016 09:09:51 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Brian John on 07/09/2016 08:29:05:
Taig Australia have not responded to my emails nor is there a phone number on their website. Machinery House do not have the generic milling slide in stock and will not have them until November.....even that sounds like ''maybe''. So I will have to source something from overseas. This looks good but I often have problems when ordering from India : . From memory ... That looks 'remarkably similar' to the Taig slide MichaelG. |
Brian John | 07/09/2016 10:43:23 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | I am hoping it is not : the Tag requires a mounting block before fixing to the carriage whereas the Machinery House type is mounted directly to the carriage. I have asked the ebay supplier to provide more photos of the base so I can see how it is mounted to the lathe. |
Neil Wyatt | 07/09/2016 14:40:48 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Posted by Brian John on 07/09/2016 10:43:23:
I am hoping it is not : the Tag requires a mounting block before fixing to the carriage whereas the Machinery House type is mounted directly to the carriage. I have asked the ebay supplier to provide more photos of the base so I can see how it is mounted to the lathe. I have a Taig one and that is identical. Mounting is via twoi stepped holes in the body. You only need a mounting block if your lathe won't allow it to hang over the side of the cross slide, you need an adaptor to fit it to the topslide mountings OR you want to use it at an angle. Neil |
JasonB | 07/09/2016 16:18:37 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Brian you are basing your comments on JohnW's vertical slide that he posted a picture of which was modified by adding a plate to the bottom |
Brian John | 07/09/2016 18:29:58 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | I am basing my comments on what I read here : they are quite specific about requiring a mounting block. Anyway, it is not going to be as simple to mount as the Machinery House version. I will call the Melbourne and Perth offices tomorrow to see if they have them in stock. |
JasonB | 07/09/2016 19:59:21 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | The little machine shop link is if you are using the taig V.slide on a mini lathe. You have not got a mini lathe. The two slots that run front to back on a Taig lathe are a different spacing to the slots on a mini-lathe so that is why a plate is needed. As you have a single slot that runs side to side the bolt spacing won't be a problem Edited By JasonB on 07/09/2016 20:03:16 |
Michael Gilligan | 07/09/2016 20:07:24 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Brian John on 05/09/2016 08:51:24:
Machinery House from whom I bought the Optimum lathe have a generic vertical mill slide which will fit my lathe. I simply remove the top slide by undoing one bolt and use the same bolt to attach the slide to the carriage. I am not sure if the Taig attaches so simply. The generic slide is also metric. ... . Sorry, Brian ... I can't see much difference [except in price] between that and the ebay one ... which Neil has confirmed is just like the Taig one. MichaelG. [getting rather confused] . Edit: O.K. ... I think I get the difference now https://goo.gl/images/Ty3Rlx Edited By Michael Gilligan on 07/09/2016 20:16:34 |
Brian John | 08/09/2016 08:47:53 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | I have received some more photos from the Indian seller : it has two holes threaded 1/4'' X 20 TPI. UPDATE : I have just found out that the vertical slide which fits the Optimum lathe is a Toolmaster L276 and this also fits Hafco lathes so that would explain why it is sold out all across Australia. Edited By Brian John on 08/09/2016 09:23:03 |
Ajohnw | 08/09/2016 09:49:50 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | The only thing I would wonder about is the finish and fit of the dovetail etc Brian. The Taig one is perfect. The generic one should be worth a try though and is simple for you to use. You may find that it doesn't fit in the ideal place on your lathe as the point the compound slide swings on seldom goes much past the centre line of the lathe. It too could still be mounted on a plate to offset it. John - |
Michael Gilligan | 08/09/2016 21:17:04 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Neil Wyatt on 07/09/2016 14:40:48:
I have a Taig one and that is identical. Mounting is via twoi stepped holes in the body. . Neil, In light of the new photo that Brian received from India; and comparison with the picture of Tony Jeffree's Taig/Peatol example ... Can we assume that 'identical' is an innocent overstatement ? MichaelG. |
Brian John | 10/09/2016 10:44:40 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | 1. After numerous phone calls to many companies I have realised that I am not going to buy the Toolmaster L276 milling slide in Australia until they get a new shipment which is expected in November. Going on past experience that will mean it arrives in January next year...maybe ! Do they sell Hafco lathes in the UK ? Somebody might have the Toolmaster slide there ? 2. The steam chest is soldered to the cylinder using solder paste which I have never used before. Is flux required for solder paste and, if so, is it special flux ? I am getting different answers using Google search on the internet. I know solder paste is a mix of flux and solder but that does not mean that the metal to be soldered should not be pre-fluxed first.
Edited By Brian John on 10/09/2016 10:50:41 |
Ajohnw | 10/09/2016 13:01:59 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | Are there any pictures of this Toolmaster slide about Brian ? I'd like to see one. Don't bother - found one on a site in NZ. Imperial but it does look like the slides are ground. One part anyway. John - Edited By Ajohnw on 10/09/2016 13:02:20 Edited By Ajohnw on 10/09/2016 13:07:20 |
Ian S C | 10/09/2016 13:11:47 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Brian, the paste is the flux, and as long as the metal to be joined is clean (as in any soldering), the paste is applied between the bits of metal, which if required is held in place as it is heated, the solder in the paste will melt when the soldering temperature is reached. I'v never used the stuff myself(too mean to buy it), I tin both bits of metal, place the bits together, then using an old screwdriver or similar metal rod with insulated handle, press the bit together as you heat it, when the solder melts take the heat off, but keep the pressure on until it cools this will leave you with a nice thin joint, which is the strongest, and if you have tinned it correctly there should be a minimum of solder on the metal outside the joint area, the solder paste should work the same. No other flux required. Ian S C |
JasonB | 10/09/2016 13:19:10 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | As Ian says the paste is a mix of flux and finely ground solder so just apply lightly to each surface, put them together and head you will know when its done as you will see the silver fillet of solder form around the joint edge. Clean it off well with water and soap after as the flux is quite corrosive, not so bad on brass but on steel items you can come back the next day to a rusty part.
J |
Brian John | 10/09/2016 17:55:09 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | Thank you : no flux it is then. John : here is the Toolmaster L276 slide. It is metric. |
Brian John | 11/09/2016 14:33:08 |
1487 forum posts 582 photos | I am making as many parts as I can while I decide what to do about the lack of a vertical slide. Today I made the pulley (part 26) ; I actually made three of them. I did not have a 45 degree pointed tool to make the cuts as the per the diagram so I used the flat edge of a parting tool to shape the grooves then rounded off the edges with a round file held against the opening of the grooves while the pulley was spinning in the chuck. The grooves are 1.2mm deep so I am hoping that is enough to keep any pulleys in place. What would such a 45 degree tool look like....I do not have anything in my kit box that would do it ? Edited By Brian John on 11/09/2016 14:35:51 |
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