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Pins and no needles

How to remove small locating pins?

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Izack Madd19/06/2015 11:23:53
105 forum posts
Posted by Robert Dodds on 19/06/2015 09:53:01:

Izaak,

As you are using a jewelers saw and seeing that they seem to take blades of almost any length why not try breakikng off the two offending ends of your coping blades so that they can be inserted into the clamps of the saw.
BTW I was amazed at how small real jewelers saw blades can be,.006 x .012 and passing through a No 80 hole. Coping saws are positively HUGE in comparison.

Bob D

I thought of that but it teds to curl the ends and work harden them so that the claps on the saw make the blade curve as it traps the blade, and there's no room to move the bent bit beyond the clamp. That and I'd loose at lease one or two teath... And that's waste

Michael Gilligan19/06/2015 11:24:58
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23121 forum posts
1360 photos
Posted by Derek999 on 19/06/2015 08:54:06:

Hello Izack

Last year I purchased a tool used by jewelers to adjust expanding watch straps. It works just like a chain link extractor, and has a small drive pin which should extract those in coping saw blades.

.

And now we're into the "Procurement" process yes

... The 'Make or Buy?" and "Make from?" decisions.

MichaelG.

Izack Madd19/06/2015 11:26:21
105 forum posts
Posted by Derek999 on 19/06/2015 08:54:06:

Hello Izack

Last year I purchased a tool used by jewelers to adjust expanding watch straps. It works just like a chain link extractor, and has a small drive pin which should extract those in coping saw blades.

It cost me less than £5 on ebay and although you might need to modify it slightly to cope with the difference in dimensions between a watch strap and the saw blade, it should easily cope with the task at hand. I cannot find it at present in order to photograph it, but a quick google for 'watch strap pin remover' produced plenty of results from £0.99 upwards.

I hope this helps you.

Best regards

Derek

I have one of those ill give it a go but if memory serves me right the pin on the block I have was quite long and even on watch straps it would slide of the pin I'm trying to push out. But I'll try it thanks

Izack Madd19/06/2015 11:27:01
105 forum posts
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/06/2015 06:27:14:
Posted by Izack Madd on 19/06/2015 01:01:59:

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/06/2015 22:10:47:

A miniature version of a chain link extractor is probably what you need.

MichaelG.

Having looked at this device.

If I take a block of...?

< etc. >.

.

Well done, Izack ... You have just demonstrated the "Engineering" process star

The Craft of making it is one thing; but ingenuity is the Engineering.

... So much more satisfying than either "Painting by Numbers" or just Shopping.

MichaelG.

Thanks

Izack Madd19/06/2015 11:28:59
105 forum posts
Posted by Hopper on 19/06/2015 02:11:14:

You might find it helps to grind the pin down flush with the blade before pushing it out with the above device.

This is standard technique for using chain breaker tools on modern heavy duty motorcycle chains. It might do away with the burr on your pins and make the pin easier to pop out that last little bit.

I tried this but the metal is quite soft considering what it's for and tends to create a big burr and as its stuck on the end of a flat bar it's hard to stop it vibrating. Thanks

Russell Eberhardt19/06/2015 11:32:30
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2785 forum posts
87 photos

Quick solution: Don't remove the pin, just grind it off flush.

Russell.

mark costello 119/06/2015 14:39:33
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800 forum posts
16 photos

If You cannot grind it off, You might be able to use a spare small drill chuck on it if one is available.

jason udall19/06/2015 16:35:54
2032 forum posts
41 photos
Ok.
Me?
I would get block of scrap wood.
Practically any wood.
Even aluminium.
Place pin upright on block. Using blade to hold.

Drive pin into block. Drive until pin is flush with with blade.
Punch remainder of way with center punch/ sharpened masonry nail
Repeat for as many ends as required.
Pin remains in block to be nailed flush if required.

jason udall19/06/2015 16:38:52
2032 forum posts
41 photos
One point.
Critical to any technique is "do you want the pin or the blade? "
Since a technique to save both is generally an order of magnitude harder.
Izack Madd19/06/2015 19:38:56
105 forum posts
Posted by jason udall on 19/06/2015 16:38:52:
One point.
Critical to any technique is "do you want the pin or the blade? "
Since a technique to save both is generally an order of magnitude harder.

While I'm of the age where everything has a value and will "come in handy" and would have saved the pins I realise I'm very unlikely to find a real use for them and it is the blade that is wanted.

Izack Madd19/06/2015 19:42:35
105 forum posts
Posted by jason udall on 19/06/2015 16:35:54:
Ok.
Me?
I would get block of scrap wood.
Practically any wood.
Even aluminium.
Place pin upright on block. Using blade to hold.

Drive pin into block. Drive until pin is flush with with blade.
Punch remainder of way with center punch/ sharpened masonry nail
Repeat for as many ends as required.
Pin remains in block to be nailed flush if required.

This is roughly what I'm doing but my eyesight is such that seeing the pin to hit only it is a problem that can't be fixed even with magnification and if I were to hit the blade fully rather than the pin it may either snap violently going any which way at hig speed or just split the end of the blade where I'd be clamping it to the saw

Izack Madd19/06/2015 19:43:48
105 forum posts
Posted by mark costello 1 on 19/06/2015 14:39:33:

If You cannot grind it off, You might be able to use a spare small drill chuck on it if one is available.

Certainly something I can try whilst waiting to make the simple jig thanks

Izack Madd19/06/2015 19:44:41
105 forum posts
Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 19/06/2015 11:32:30:

Quick solution: Don't remove the pin, just grind it off flush.

Russell.

See the answer above you suggestion

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