Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

The regulator supplied is for the compressed air that is used by the plasma cutter .

Both of the regulators in your original post essentially do the same thing , drop the bottle pressure and allow you to control the flow rate .

The first one has the ball type flow gauge which is preferred as it is more reliable in the long run - those cheap needle gauges on the second gauge set can stick and jam up but the ball bearing in the tube is lifted by the actual flow of gas and has no moving parts to jam up . Both have bottle presure gauges that allow you to see when your bottle is just about empty , i have had these gauges fail as well but the regulator can still be used without it as long as the flow gauge is working .

It is worth the extra money to but a decent quality gauge set - it doesn't need to be top of the range but i would avoid buying a dirt cheap set . You will more than likely find both those gauge sets are made in china like just about everything else .

The bonus is you can use the same gauge on a mig welder as well .

Its ok to say a good welder working for a company can listen to the gas flow and know whether it is not set correctly when he or she doesn't have to buy the stuff ! When you are learning it makes life much easier to be to set the flow on a gauge rather than guessing it .

Take a look at these two youtube sites , you will learn something from them i'm sure :

Welding tips and tricks

Weld . Com .

I had a near new set of wahl l clippers die on me halfway through converting my noggin to skinhead mode , had to put a beanie on in the middle of summer and go and buy a new set .

people give you really strange looks when you walk around a shopping centre with a beanie on when its 40 c outside !

Just be careful as there is the possibllity that there are other capacitors inside that are still charged to mains voltages My first operation would be to check any electrolytic capacitors and discharge them .

Maybe they're pulling your string

Ian.

I converted my machine a few months after buying it and couldn't fault it - kit from lms .

I find the motor will overload before the belt slips and i do push that little mill way beyond its design parameters !

Are you sure you have the pulleys set up correctly ?

Ian .

No problem with my ipad , maybe an account setting ?

I have in the past resorted to a wood saw

I now have one of those twin saws with the counter rotating carbide tipped blades and it just loves aluminium !

Do you have a mitre saw that is big enough ? Just use a fine pitch carbide tipped blade and take it slow

Hi Simon,

While i have to agree with the other replies in regards to it reading correctly i i also understand where you are coming from !

Take a look at the youtube channel mrpete222 Shop tips #302 he stripped down a mic and lightly skimmed the end of the barrel opposite the thimble so more of the line was showing as he had troubles seeing it when most of the line was under the thimble .

Ian

I thought that hole was to look through to check if the bed had twisted !

Not much use as an anchor as sh#t floats

What is the fit on the motor shaft without the key fitted - it should be a snug sliding fit or a very light tap fit .

I have seen pulleys bored oversize and the sliding fit was caused by the key which pulled the whole pulley off centre !

What about the motor bearings - any play there ?

There could be an internal fault in the pulley (fissure) , i would machine up a mandrel so i could mount it in the lathe and spin it up to the operating speed the pulley normaly runs at and see if the vibration occurs -if it does and you cant perceive any runout maybe look at a new pulley .

The amount of metal missing from the keyway groove would have a negligable effect at the speed it operates as the keyway is close to the centre line of the motor shaft .

Ian

I typed in high voltage coil on ebay , lowest price first and a whole pile of them appered on my screen !

I don't know how long they would last on an engine and getting the dwell angle correct to get the coil to charge fully may be an issue on higher reving motors but for a couple of bucks its worth trying .

They look to me to be a tool for cutting a seat for an o ring seal on a fuel injector or the like or trimming valve guides after they have been instelled.

Just a guess !

Ian.

Nice score!

We useed these in high school and if we couldn't kill them no one will !

There is a 260 g on ebay that looks good but the 5k asking price scared me off !

It looks like your unit still has the original paint so it hasn't been tarted up which unfortunatel many are to cover up the years of abuse .

Ian

I have a ryobi branded one which is basically the same and although they are not the most powerful thing they are nice and light .

If like me you detest grinding dust in the workshop it is just a matter of setting it up on a small fold up table outside , i usually use the disc for cleaning and squaring up wooden bases for my small engines .

Ian.

Surely i can cut and paste ome !

This may cause pocketmags to implode !

How about adding a count down clock to the website so us MEW addicts can check how long it will be until we can view it on line ?

Will a " patch" be available for the digital edition

Chris ,

One can NEVER have too many machines !

I have 4 lathes and usually stick with my go - to machine which was my first lathe , maybe it iis because i have been using it so long or something but it gets 99 % of the abuse i tend to dish out to my equipment .

Sometimes i will switch to a different lathe just for the hell of it but i know that when i have a need to perform a different operation like setting a piece up on a face plate etc and i don't want to break down the set up on one machine i can simply walk over to one of the others and set it up there .

Maybe you could look at your list of operations and try to clump things together that use the same set up and do them all in one go then change over for something else and do everything that requires that set up ?

Ian

Hopper,

Have you tried Machine tool automation at Mona vale in Sydney ?

Ian.

Hopper ,

Where approximately are you located on this good planet of ours ?

I had a look at your profile but you don't state where you are and in one of your posts you mention getting a quolte from Myford but the international freight is to high so i guess you are not in the UK ?

A chemically blued chuck - now that would look cool !

I use lanotec ( usual disclaimer applies ) on my machines a wipe over with some paper towel sprayed with this stuff works well , in winter i have seen my larger lathe (hafco AL320 ) litterally dripping with condensation but strangely my smaller lathes don't seem to suffer as bad .

In winter time if i won't be using that lathe often i paint the lanotec on with a brush and let it dry , i still get the same condensation but the lanotec leaves a wax like coating that keeps the moisture off the metal surfaces .

I also purchased a heap of those rechargeable moisture traps off ebay and if i use a plastic tarp to cover the machine it forms a sort of seal and the moisture traps suck out any moisture in the air and i no longer end up with a dripping wet machine .

I haven't tried carnuba wax but i see no reason why it would not work , same goes for a block of lanolin - never seen a rusty sheep !

I also picked up some deoderised fish oil to try but haven't got around to yet , this winter coming i might set up some test pieces  out in the yard   and try some different coatings to see what works best .

Ian.

Edited By XD 351 on 09/02/2017 21:12:28