Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

This video had me scratching my head wondering what he was making ! turn the volume down as the music is irritating and there is no commentary .

**LINK**

If you give them a call and ask for a quote on express post they should be able to sort it for you and it is not that much more expensive , you should have it in a couple of days at the most .

Not sure how a diamond blade would go cutting aluminium .

The bandsaw is the most versatile as it can be used as a cut off saw and in the vertical position as a bandsaw to trim around curves , they also don't produce dust like a friction saw and don't throw hot chips at you like a tct blade will .

You can buy the tct blade for your origional drop saw / cut off saw and these work well but you can only use it as a cut off saw .

The only bad thing with the band saw is they can take a little tinkering to get them to cut square and they are slower than a cut off saw but once you start the cut you can leave it to do its job and get on with something else while it does its job.

Here is the mod for the tumbler gear - nothing spectacular but it works although neutral is a problem for some reason - maybe because the tumbler gears are odd sizes I don't know . There is so little clearance to work with so even though i have extended the linkage of the tumbler bracket ot still bunches up towards one side of the movement .

X 1000 for that idea ! I never thought a rubbish bin could be used for a blasting cabinet !

If memory serves me correctly ( usually doesn't ) you can turn the other glove ( R/H one in the set ) inside out and it becomes a left hand glove .

If you know what taper it is what if you measured back far enough to drill and tap a hole for a small grease nipple so you can use hydraulic force from a grease gun to push the taper out ?

Just a thought .

I think Johns link was trying to show a video but for some reason i cant upload a working link to it and all i got were ads .

I would hook up a variable power supply running to the positive and negative terminals and run it at the battery voltage via a 10 ohm 25 w resistor and give it a tickle - do it outside though just incase something goes belly up ! If things start getting hot turn it off ! The sensing circuit inside the camcorder is reading a voltage below its cut off threshold and won't recognise the battery until its voltage is above this .

Edited By XD 351 on 11/01/2019 04:36:49

Edited By XD 351 on 11/01/2019 04:39:23

Edited By XD 351 on 11/01/2019 04:41:08

Edited By XD 351 on 11/01/2019 04:43:20

For my first prints i had same issues , i found that i was setting the nozzle off the bed 0.2mm and had the initial layer height set in cura at 0.2mm as well so i ended up with 0.4 mm height and no amount of glue will fix that so i adjusted the settings in cura to as low as it would let me go to zero .

I found a lot if info on makers muse youtube channel and Thomas sanladerer chanel also .

Did you built the printer or get it pre built ? If it was pre built i should have come from prusa pre calibrated so i would say your settings in your slcer programme are to blame .

**LINK**

This manual has all the set up and calibration settings for your printer , you can do a lot of fine tuning via the lcd and control knob on the printer and they have way more features than my geeetech i3 !

Read my last post.

Cooling is via 12v automotive fan mounted inside the cabinet and the air is ducted up to the fan shroud of the motor , it then exits through a vent on the end of the motor enclosure. The fan is pwm controlled so i can set the airflow and this also keeps the fan a bit quieter as it doesn't run flat out . The vfd is also mounted inside the cabinet and the fan also gives some airflow for that as well .

The design of that headstock is terrible , the axial load from the cutting tool is baring against a circlip not a machined shoulder in the headstock .

The wavy washer only controlls the end float of the spindle in one direction which is fine if you never want to machine anything feeding the carriage away from the chuck.

I am glad i never bought a unimat if their headstock set up is the same through all the small models they make !

you can use angular contact bearings which will be better on a lathe , I wouldn't bother on a mill . There are many that have used the origional bearings for years and have had no issues. Never seen belville or spring washers used ever and i would be removing them if they were fitted.

Good to see you you are also a member of the stuff it anywhere club Joseph !

Please be careful you are working with voltage that will kill you !

Check that there is no oil or the like on the pulleys .

Sean , it would appear to me that you have little experience with mains powered electrical or electronic items so i would suggest you leave it alone until you can get some help from someone who does .

Your controller may just be a simple ac to dc converter and pwm controller but i can't work out what the black lead does . The red ones are probably power but can't be sure . You don't know yet if the controller even works and it could be dangerous to power it up .

I would look around on some various sites like ebay or bangood for a pwm controller that can handle the power requirements of the motor and buy one of them .

Just a quick update and photo of the enclosure , the rest of the upgrade is now just a put it back together affair so I won't bore you with that . I may be back later on with the tumbler gear modification once i work out how to do it !

I made a bench with storage like this , the drawers hold short offcuts and the sections under them hold stuff up to 600mm any longer than that it goes up in the rafters . Not shown is the slide out unit that goes under the table and it holds my heavy stuff in three seperate bays , one for steel or cast iron , one fo aluminium and the other for brass , bronze and copper.

Edited By XD 351 on 30/12/2018 07:57:40

Those keyed bushes are not hardened , i have filed them to clean of any burrs and make fitting the gears easier . The shafts they run on are not hard either . If you make them yourself do the slot cutting and silver soldering before you drill and ream the bore that way ther is no distorsion and you can make a long keyed section then part of many bushes to length. Even better is to bore the gears out and machine to accept a splined bush but that is a bit of work . The keyed bushes on my al 50 lathe were terrible and made it a pia to change gears over .

You could,make them from brass or bronze and they will be ok , mazak is nothing spectacular !

I was going to call the thread Frankenpuller but though a different name might be better at the time !