Member postings for peak4

That's odd, if there is contamination on the jaws when zero'd and clean when measuring something, I would have thought they would read undersize, not over, but I'm sure you clean them before use.

I've a variety of digital calipers, from Lidl & Aldi which I use for general rough measurements as it's not a major problem if I drop them; I've have never found them to be just a little bit out like that.
Either they broadly read the same measurement as my Mitutoyo, or Insize ones, or they fail completely and give a bizarre reading, though sometimes one that fools me.
One set suddenly started counting 10-11-12-13-13-15-16 etc, which had me foxed for a while.

With the cheap ones, I do find I need to keep the gib strip quite tightly adjusted to prevent the sliding jaw cockling a bit, since that also leads to under reading, I wonder if that's what's happening.
When you close them to zero, the jaws fully support each other, but when you then use them on a round bar, the moving jaw slants a bit.

If I need to use a caliper, as opposed to a micrometer, for a critical reading, I either use the Mitutoyo or Insize digital ones, a conventional vernier, or a dial caliper.
With either of the mechanical ones, I also pre-check with a gauge block(s) of about the expected final reading.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 13/08/2023 01:31:18

I did go to quite a bit of trouble to ensure good waterproofing; e.g. where plywood sheets met on the walls was sealed, and an outer batten added, as well as regular treatment with one of the waxy water repellent shed finishes.
The one water ingress issue I had was with the roof on one corner.
I made the single pent roof from ¾" shuttering ply, covered and sealed with bituminous paint, and topped with corrugated bituminous sheeting from Wickes, with angled ridge pieces used as seals along the top edge and sides, and a gutter along the front.
Unknown to me, the local squirrel population chewed a hole on one corner, under the bituminous sheet, behind the gutter, but through the wood to make a larder for the peanuts that my neighbour used to leave out for them.

The other issue was a break in attempt one night, where a neighbour's shed had been burgled.
They nicked a cordless drill and 1" tank cutter and chain drilled a hole through ply and plasterboard, big enough to crawl through.
Fortunately they picked a spot immediately behind the pillar of my bench drill and came face to face with a big steel tube, equally fortunately, they didn't realise it wasn't bolted down.

The windows already had steel bars on the outside, and cable gridding (similar to concrete reinforcing weldmesh, but smaller holes) on the inside. The main door was my old house door, with a crossbar of angle iron and a protected padlock; worth having an outward opening door, both for space saving internally, and it's harder to shoulder charge through.
Windows were a pre-made double glazing unit from a local DIY shop, which had been made the wrong size for the customer, so was sold off cheap.
There is now overlapping sheets of weldmesh inside the insulation of the back wall.

I think now, I'd consider Firestone rubber roofing sheets, but they weren't around 35 years ago.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 09/08/2023 11:38:54

My previous workshop was made of a 3"x2" timber frame, but with external ply on the outside, so less chance of wind-blown rain penetrating.
I lined the walls and roof with rockwool and plaster-boarded the inside. There was little issue with condensation, and the place warmed up quickly in the coldest of winters with an electric fan heater, though it was smaller than your new one.
Don't be tempted to use a gas heater as they give off water vapour.
Since you have shiplap walls, how about using a breathable membrane immediately behind them, such as one of the newer style of underfelts designed to go underneath slates or roofing tiles.
This would repel any moisture, still be breathable, and keep the rockwool dry.

Expect problems in the short term though as a new base will have quite a lot of moisture to get rid of whilst drying out.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 08/08/2023 21:14:04

Yes PolyVbelts are readily available in different lengths and widths, but like any other flat belt, the spindles do need to be parallel to each other to work well.
This is just  one of many suppliers
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Belts-Multi-Ribbed-Poly-V-Belts/c4601_4791/index.html

Since Leo has an ML7, it should be easy enough to grind up a tool and make the appropriate grooves.

The outer circumference of the flat belt on my Hexacut is about 21½", and Simply Bearings seem to list both 20" & 21", so something should be suitable.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 08/08/2023 20:23:48

Edited By peak4 on 08/08/2023 20:28:15

Another possibility, just for cleaning the outer part, would be to do a search on "Cylinder Ridge Reamer"; sometimes adding "Vintage" helps to find images of older designs which might be more appropriate, or easier to modify to a shallower bore.
They do come in a variety of sizes; mine came second hand from a steam rally.
Essentially they are for removing the ridge at the top of an engine cylinder, so you can re-ring without a rebore, to remove the ridge to save the new rings hitting it and breaking.

Bill

I wonder if a David Brown type floating reamer would work, or whether having just the two flutes would allow chatter.
Since it's a stuffing box, I assume there is a through hole; I don't know how these reamers are constructed, but could the end plate be replaced with something which would allow an interchangeable rod at the end similar to some counterbores
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314702039143

Bill

I can't recommend a particular printer, but if you're on W10, and if you buy a second hand printer, make sure that there is a manufacturer available printer driver.

Also make sure you check out costings of the consumables; some are very expensive, as the drum(s) comes with the ink cassette; it's almost as if the printer is a loss leader, with the overall profit on consumables, particularly at the domestic end of the market

I'm happily using an ancient Samsung colour CLP510 laser, but getting it to function on W7 or later is interesting at best. Pattern refills though are cheap enough. It uses a separate drum, and a further separate ink transfer belt, but I have a spare printer for when they wear out.

I know you've asked about a laser, but I also run an A3 Brother combined inkjet printer/scanner, with auto document feed. It's now superseded, but I've been happy with it for several years a MFC-J6530DW; Pattern ink is available when the warranty runs out.

It really should be left powered up though as the is a regular cleaning cycle to avoid jet blockage; the cartridges and print head are separate, unlike my previous HP with integral print heads. That might be wasteful if you only ever print very occasionally. I think bulk ink tanks are available as well for heavy users.

I use an OS mapping program on the PC, and my primary use for this printer is for +150-200% A3 maps of areas where we go out walking, to avoid needing to carry several full sized commercial 1:25,000 maps.
The A3 aspect is also useful for workshop diagrams.

Bill

I can understand the issues surrounding the CAM aspect of it regarding a craft competition, but less so the CAD.

When I need a drawing to make something, I still use a pen and drawing board or similar, but that's only because I've not got round to learning and CAD packages. (proviso here I normally use crafty methods mend stuff, rather than being "crafty" for the end artistic result)

Does it make the end product any more "craftwork" for using CAD? I'd suggest not.

e.g. I suspect you could download a design for a wooden clock, but make it purely by hand with a fretsaw and chisels etc, in the same way that one time it would have come from a "craft workers" paper book of published clock designs.

I would certainly draw the line in a craft competition of downloading the design and then using a laser cutter for all the parts, (unless perhaps it was clearly explained in the items description)
The might though be an argument for exactly the same laser cut design if it was intricately painted by hand afterwards, such that a substantial part of the item was indeed craft work, provided that the description makes that clear.

I see the need a very careful consideration of the how the rules a written to avoid causing offence to one camp or another.

Bill

I've never used them, so no idea of cost, but Garside would be one firm to check out in Halifax
They also do machinery bed regrinds etc. and seem to have plenty of satisfield Myford bed regrind customers.
https://www.jamesgarsideandsonltd.co.uk/

Personally I used Steve Cox of Landylift, but obviously that would depend upon the weight of your machine.

Bill

I had a look in my ML10 parts book, but don't have that lathe.

No.66 - A25 = 25" A section as you say
No.166 - M section 31.5"
Z section is similar to M section; M=10x5.5mm, but not all that common, whereas Z=10x6mm
31.5" = 800mm, so I guess your reference to Z810 is just a tad longer than 31.5"

There's quite a bit of further useful info on sites such as this one, regarding smooth or raw edges, cogged versus plain etc.
https://tameson.co.uk/pages/v-belt-overview#_k7mdaekaiclj

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 31/07/2023 23:05:13

I wonder if the original was applies hot, such as in the production of these Japanese tea kettles; about 6 minutes in, though the whole video is worth watching



Though I did see this commercial video whilst I was wandering around the net as well

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 31/07/2023 21:31:53

Back in 1982, I and several others from Sheffield University Speleological Society went on a trip to Lefka Ori mountains in Crete.
Several folk had never done any cave surveys before, so we had a training/controlled-experiment on the surface where everyone took bearings and clino measurements on a distant peak using that style of Suunto gear.
Interestingly, everyone got repeatable results, but in many cases the actual observed bearings were different.
We never did find out why, but some individuals got repeatable results up to 3° either side of the true reading.
I carried a Silva mirror compass with magnetic deviation adjustment, and passed that around.
Everyone got the same reading with that.
It did allow each person to effectively calibrate their own eye/methodology, and adjust their own readings, so the survey results probably ended up reasonably accurate.

Bill

I'm sure you've looked on the web, but did you spot these folk
https://www.pmwdynamics.com/pancake-servo-motor-repair/

Good Luck
bill

I've had a brief look, but can't find anything immediately similar.
4 pole DC high torque is a starting point, but I guess you need to look at the speed as well, unless you can tell from the driving circuitry whether it's a normal 4 pole, or some sort of a servo/stepper motor..
There might be similar stuff, but not the same, on AliExpress, though the CE marking and RoHs do look in the correct format for EU rather than China Export.

What's it from and what's the problem with it?

Maybe fully re-assemble it, take a few photos and try HERE, which will search Google, Bing & Yandex
https://smallseotools.com/reverse-image-search/

You might not find one the same, but if it puts you on the right page............

edit, looks like Pete and I were typing at the same time; shame about the price though.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 28/07/2023 13:28:15

I've just been given a similar free subscription to the same service for a year.
In my case, because one of Tesco bank's print suppliers had been hacked.
No personal banking details were obtained, so probably just name and address etc, but could potentially be used for fraudsters to apply for credit in my name.

On similar lines, have a look at This Site to check your email for known data breaches.
https://haveibeenpwned.com/

Google's own password check is handy too.

Bill

Some MG stuff had it the other way around with BSW/BSF heads on metric threads.
This Article gives an example, though I thing it occurred elsewhere too
https://svwregister.co.uk/technical/nuts-and-bolts-used-on-svw-engines

Bill

Yes, on a separate graticle retained with a threaded collar.
If/when I pick up a lower powered eyepiece, I'll likely add a cheap(ish) set of crosshairs off ebay or similar.
No point yet though as I won't know the diameter of any future eyepiece.
I do have a couple of other pairs of eyepieces off my binocular scopes, but they are 10x & 17x, as well as missing the cross hairs.
I even have several random spare spotting scope eyepieces form birding scopes, but they start at 15x and go up to about 35x

Bill

Cheers, I had read that post; as you have spotted, mine only came with the telescope objective, and my workshop is of limited size.
I really picked it up, largely on a whim as it was a good price, for measuring smaller things close up, such as identifying threads etc
7.5x eyepiece and 5x objective is just a bit to magnified for some things, so I might seek a lower powered eyepiece and a 4x objective, but there's no rush for that.
Whilst my long distance vision is fine with glasses, and now hopefully better following a replacement lens in one eye, I still sometimes struggle reading/seeing small things close up, or matching threads and gauges.
I'll have to see how I get on after I've been back to the optician for a post cataract surgery eye test and new prescription glasses.

I already have a binocular dissecting microscope for working on PCBs, pulling splinters etc.

Bill

The postman came earlier with a second hand Union 5x objective, so now I don't have to place objects on the garden fence to view them.
Focus is now a bit close at about 15mm ish, but far more useable.
I've not tried to do much with it, but did try measuring a 4BA thread, by counting ten pitches and came up with a sensible answer, only about 0.02mm out, so it will do for its intended purpose.

It looks like the slot in each end casting is to hold some sort of a stage, so I'll try and find a length of ¼" Perspex, frost it and arrange some back lighting.
Screenflashlight as an Android app on the mobile should do that bit nicely.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eduardo_rsor.apps.linternapantalla&hl=en&gl=US

Used on its own you can see the individual pixels, but out of focus and behind a bit of frosted plastic, it should be fine.

Bill

I've not seen them for sale for ages; I have made my own in the past from sewing and darning needles.
Break off the eye, just as the needle shank widens out and then stone the remaining stub to a spade point.
The final drilling end comes out just wider than the needle, and works quite well.

Bill