packing box bore clean out tool

I repair old condensate and vacuum pumps, primarily those used for old steam plants for building heating. Many of these old pumps use old style packing box type shaft seals.

Many times the packing box bores in the cast iron housings develop a corrosion build up that prevent the compression gland from entering the bore to compress the packing rings. As part of my repair work, I have to clean out this build up so the compression gland will enter this bore.

So far, I've been using abrasive flap wheels in a high speed die grinder and this will usually get the job done in a good enough sort of way, but not always.

I'd really like to come up with a hand rotated cutting tool for this job, but need some guidance as to how it might be constructed.

Case in point, a 2.137" packing box bore that is approximately 3" deep.

I'm hoping to find a small tool and cutter grinding shop that could make a hand reamer to this dimension, but no luck with that idea so far.

My dream solution would be a vertical milling machine with boring tool in an adjustable boring head. Problem is, I just don't have room for even a small vertical mill. Other problem is, sometimes I have to do this work at a job site where a vertical mill is not available.

Sounds like an expanding hand reamer is what you're looking for, not particularly expensive at that size, buy a decent one if you're using it for work not hobby.

A H16 sounds about the size you're looking for.

Cylinder hone - This sort of thing ?? - Available almost everywhere

Hone

Though of fixed size a rotabroach the right size would work or as speedy says a cylinder hone. Noel.

Hi, i agree with using a cylinder hone, with an adjustable reamer, the blades wouldn't get to the bottom of a stuffing box.

Regards Nick.

I wonder if a David Brown type floating reamer would work, or whether having just the two flutes would allow chatter.
Since it's a stuffing box, I assume there is a through hole; I don't know how these reamers are constructed, but could the end plate be replaced with something which would allow an interchangeable rod at the end similar to some counterbores
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314702039143

Bill

Thanks all. Lots of good ideas here to consider.

For the example cited, the bottom of the stuffing box bore has a shaft sleeve hole of slightly more than 1.5", so the expanding adjustable hand reamer may be worth a try.

In any event, while it would be nice to clean out the entire stuffing box bore, what is really needed is to clean out the first 1/2" of depth so the compression gland will enter freely.

Thanks again.

You can get adjustable reamers designed to go in blind holes, but they have much less range of movement, so you would have to get them very close to the size required. They commonly have brazed on carbide blades so they will stay sharp longer.

I would consider a three bladed tool body with adjustable blades running lengthwise. The blades could made from some M2 HSS parting off blades and clamped into the body. Having three blades allows for jacking screws behind the blades. Used with a range of setting rings this would give a reasonably cheap tool. The tool could be fitted with adaptors to fit what ever you wanted to use to rotate it.

Another possibility, just for cleaning the outer part, would be to do a search on "Cylinder Ridge Reamer"; sometimes adding "Vintage" helps to find images of older designs which might be more appropriate, or easier to modify to a shallower bore.
They do come in a variety of sizes; mine came second hand from a steam rally.
Essentially they are for removing the ridge at the top of an engine cylinder, so you can re-ring without a rebore, to remove the ridge to save the new rings hitting it and breaking.

Bill

Hi, Dennis, before you rush out and buy an adjustable reamer, which are not exactly cheap at the size you will need, I have a 1-13/16" to 2-7/32" one, and the bottom adjusting collar is just a shade over 1-3/4" in diameter and a little over 1" long, and the screw threaded portion is 1-1/2" in diameter.

Of course there is a very slight taper towards the bottom end of the blades.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 07/08/2023 16:49:13