Member postings for peak4

I built a spindle square a while ago having read this thread on Model Engine Maker.

Seems to work well enough and is a lot less faffing about then using a single clock gauge.

I bought two cheapo metric DTIs off ebay, nothing special and something like £4.50 each.

Here's a couple of photos to give you an idea, but I can't show it on the mill, as the Centec's in Sheffield, and there's something on the Westbury at the moment over here in Buxton.

I made it pretty much according to the aforementioned thread, but on a 2MT arbour as that's what's in the spindle both my machines. I was quite pleased ,when having fitted the arbour to the crossbar, I popped it in the Myford taper and clocked both the bottom two faces. No discernible difference with a 1/10s DTI.

And one to show it's set up correctly before adding to a milling machine spindle

All the best

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 29/01/2017 19:57:22

I'll take a wild guess at this Dave. Does your chuck key have a cross handle with sides of equal length, or is it one of the ones with a longer handle and a swaged out thumb section?

I've found that the latter type works better, with a proviso.

Imagine holding an electric drill with the chuck end facing away from you, and a key hole on the top.

Set the key such that the longer handle is to the right at 90 degrees, facing due east if you consider the drill to be pointing north.

That way, when you tighten up, you effectively pull the key towards you, and force the gear teeth into a tighter mesh, rather than away from you as the second photo shows.

Are you left handed, as that might mean you normally use the key 180 degrees different to me?

p.s. took too long typing, Nick beat me to it. 

Also I sent a message to Jacobs earlier on asking this very question. i.e. one hole or three. If I ever get a reply I'll update this thread

Edited By peak4 on 27/01/2017 14:41:34

Neil, I came across something called Medite Tricoya a while ago. It's effectively waterproof MDF.

It, or something similar, has been used to build a hide/viewing screen at North Cave Wetlands. It's untreated and exposed to the elements.

Not cheap, but it's all relative depending on how much you need, and whether it's more suitable then ply for your application.

I've never used it, and don't have any connection with this firm. **LINK**

and a youtube link **LINK**

Yes I did when I first got it, but I was a bit hampered at the time due to having my leg in a pot, so transport options for the replacement were limited.

I struggled to find a small enough one from local suppliers, so had to make do with a 1/4 HP single phase one, which is in a large frame size. It fits OK, but needed the output shaft machining down to duplicate the 3 phase one already fitted.

From my experience, I'd try and find a smaller lighter motor than I did, as the extra weight hanging off one end of the table does cause accuracy issues. If I remember tomorrow I'll see if I can arrange a photo of some sort to illustrate the problem.

Good Luck

Bill

La-Pla , my local hydraulic supplier has the following (or something very like it) pinned up behind the counter.;

1) All pipe is to be made of a long hole surrounded by metal or plastic centred around the hole.
2) All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length -- do not use holes of different length to form the pipe.
3) The ID (Inside Diameter) of all pipe must not exceed the OD (Outside Diameter) -- otherwise the hole will be on the outside.
4) All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
5) All pipe should be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied at the job site. NOTE: Some vendors are now able to supply rust free pipes. If available in your area, this product is recommended, as it will save a great deal of time at the job site.
6) All pipe over 500 ft (150 m) in length should have the words "LONG PIPE" clearly painted on each side and end, so that the contractor knows it's a long pipe.
7) Pipe over 3 miles (3.3 km) in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE" painted in the middle, so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a short pipe.
8) All pipe over 6 ft (1.83 m) in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE" painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for small pipe.
9) Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts, quite separate from the big hole in the middle.
10) When ordering 90 or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-hand or right-hand, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
11) Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.
12) All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not mix the threads otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe, it is being unscrewed from the other.
13) All pipes shorter than 1/8 in (3 mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.
14) Joints in pipes for pumping water must be water-tight. Those joints in pipes for compressed air, however, need only be air-tight.
15) Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. This method is not recommended for concrete or earthenware pipes.
16) Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include: conduit, tube, tunnel and drain. Use only genuine pipes.
17) Scottish Regiments in the Army use Army pipes in unusual ways. These are not approved of in engineering circles.

I'll get me coat

Bye

Bill

A picture speaks a thousand words. I believe this link might assist. **LINK**

I'd expect A1/2 to be the run windings and Z1/2 the start windings.

Not ideal to use a Dewhurst as a start stop device though, better to add a no-volt release switch for that function and use the Dewhurst purely for reversing the motor.

Just bear in mind that the chuck screws on, so you don't want it barreling off down the workshop when you reverse the spindle rotation.

Head up to the top of his page to see how this chap smartened his switch up a bit.

https://misterlinnsworkshop.wordpress.com/category/myford-ml7b/page/19/

Edited By peak4 on 23/01/2017 21:36:13

Or a typo on their part. Good luck

Bill

Ian, don't suppose you have a link for them do you?

Can't see them on their site anywhere, and I'll be in Sheffield tomorrow.

Thanks Bill

Normally Opera on my various PCs, though I might use two browsers at the same time if I want to log onto two different accounts simultaneously. e.g. two different "Gmail" email accounts.

Just make sure your chosen browser also lets you gain admin access to your router before you need to. It's a bit of an issue if you can't get on-line before doing something vital to the router, but being off-line stops you downloading an appropriate browser.

I also useChrome, Firefox or Dolphin Jetpack on my Android, depending on which displays the web site best at the time.

Bill

˙ɐǝpı ou ʎlǝʇnlosqɐ ǝʌɐɥ ı

I've re-celled battery packs a few times which normally works fine.Try and find cells with tags ready welded on if possible as it makes the job easier. If not and you need to solder directly to the cells, clean with a fibreglass pencil and use as big an iron as possible to minimise the heating time.

N.B. Make sure the cells you use are capable of fast re-charge. I can remember "Fixing" a Skill battery pack a good few years ago. I was assured the cells I bought would take the requisite fast charge.

I used it for a quite while without issue, but only following a slow charge. In need of a few more holes without waiting too long I pressed the FC button and went for a brew. A while later there was a seriously loud bang upstairs, one of the cells had blown the end out and looked like Zeberdee off the Magic Roundabout.

It took me a while to find one of the other cells, It was perfectly fine, but had been blown clean through the plastic casing and put a dent in the bedroom ceiling.

Depends where it is, can you get to the other side of the orifice, even indirectly, with an air line.

If so, try blowing it out, with a rag to catch the ball; a) so you don't lose it, b) to avoid shooting next door's cat .

Not the best of photos, but heres a few oddballs out of my toolbox;

The black handled ones have got me out of a number of awkward situations, albeit often at the expense of damaging the nut. They do grip pretty much anything though, provided it fits in the jaws, and are better quality than their appearance suggests.

King Dick is self explanatory, but the Cromna is my favourite; It's just a shame that I've only got the one size. It grips most things, and also acts as a ratchet open ender. The little hemispherical boat tilts to allow the jaws to sit square, whatever sized nut you use it on.

The missle dumpy one is ex-Uboat WW2 vintage, with a set of captive shims to vary the size.

It's rather nearer than the prototype lashup I did for power cross feed for my Myford S7.

That is still in use as I never did get round to making it permanent, but as a "Temporary" power supply I used a transformer box, with built in rehostat, originally designed for model railway use. I think mine's a Hornby, but its in the other workshop at the moment. To be fair, the motor is smaller than your wiper motor off a car, so I'd suggest measuring the current draw on yours first.

The other thought I had, when it came to developing the design for the Dore-Westbury Mill, was to incorporate a 12v clutch from a car air conditioning compressor.

Edited By peak4 on 07/01/2017 17:50:23

Also have a search for mitre trimmer, or mitre guillotine.

There's also hand held versions like this one on ebay as well as ones which use replaceable stanley blades. My cheap and cheerful ones came from Aldi for less than a tenner.

I have also seen hand held plier type ones which have interchangeable anvils to hold round or square materials.

Edited By peak4 on 29/12/2016 15:15:02

I was never keen on them boiled, but; halved and fried with shallots and pomegranate seeds, with a drop of white wine, pepper and nutmeg, shed a whole different light on greens.

Bodge, if you're posting from a PC with a proper keyboard, rather than a tablet or smartphone;

Click anywhere in the address bar, then

Control a - to select all the characters

Control c - to copy everything you've just selected

Control v - to paste the link into the relevant box.

p.s. This does seem to be diverting a welding thread a bit; Howabout JasonB splitting it off into a different one for folks to have a practice, and to seek assistance with computery issues in the future.

Happy Christmas to one and all

Bill (from sunny Buxton)

Almost, you just missed the last "t" off the very end of the link when you were copying it   ...........document;

**LINK**

It should have looked like this, but without the space between

www. and scottec......................

I added the space so the forum software didn't recognise it as a link.

http:// www. scottecatalog.com/scotttec.nsf/74923c9ec562a6fb85256825006eb87d/a7f5c80b3c5a399e8525694a0053a98b?OpenDocument

Edited By peak4 on 25/12/2016 11:47:35

Would something LIKE THIS do the job?

or maybe contact Kingston

Edited By peak4 on 24/12/2016 21:04:32

I was quite fortunate, as I found a small fly press at a steam rally without an arm, so It came dirt cheap as no-one wanted it. Roll on to a different steam rally a year or two later, and I came across an arm without a press or weight, albeit with too large a hole in the central boss.

It's octagonal and tapered, but a sheet of stainless, carefully bent to shape made up a shim to fill the gap, and it works fine.

Roll on a year or so and a different steam rally/autojumble where I found a cast iron ball to complete the trio; the paint even matched the previously acquired arm..

I've just been using it to bend up some 25x5mm stainless bar to fit roof snowboards to the new house.

Edited By peak4 on 24/12/2016 20:40:36