Member postings for Paul Lousick

Early drawings were drawn by hand on coated linen with ink pens and copies made by placing sensitised paper behind the original in a simple frame with a glass cover (like a picture frame) and exposing it to the sun. If it was a cloudy day you could not make prints. The exposed print then developed by placing it in a water/ammonia solution and then hung up to dry.

I would also like to be able to sharpen my own tools and have looked at lots of designs and the price of commercial units and decided to build my own. It is still in the development stage at the moment using features which I have seen in other designs.

Paul.

Plans for this one are available at

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tool-cutter-grinder-PLANS-Acto-/302115704341?hash=item46577fce15:m:m_X1hNGyFu1wh_cQQMHrKbw

Edited By Paul Lousick on 26/10/2016 23:18:19

WARNING

The end travel limit switchs on the Seig power feed units are a simple (won't say cheap) arrangement comprising 2 small swithces in a plastic box with 2 small push buttons. One on each side which are triggered wnen the table reaches full stroke. This has worked effectively for a number of years and have only had to change one of the switches costing a few dollars.

Recently I removed the power unit from the mill table and the X- and Y-slide to give them a good clean and inspection. At assembly I bolted the power unit to the end of the table and powerred it up to check if it would run before mounting the limit switches. Feed in both directions OK.

When I attached the limit switch unit to the front of the mill I got a small electric tingle from the outside of the plastic box. On inspection discoverred that the inside of the box was oily and was conducting a current to the outside. This short had not tripped my earth leakage breaker on the house power supply but measured 10 M ohm resistance to the active terminal on the power plug.

A reminder that oil, water and electricity can be trouble.

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 26/10/2016 03:41:49

There are different grades of cast iron.

I have been turning some 90mm dia cast iron which is a pleasure to machine (neglecting the dust) cuts like butter with carbide tool and polishes to a beautiful finish with emery paper. Unlike some cast iron bars, used for window sash weights which are a B%%#####$$$ to machine.

Paul.

I have a standard Seig power feed on the table of my SX3 mill which does not have a clutch.

When the direction lever is in either the forward or reverse position there is a lot of resistance when turning the handwheel but if it is in the neutral position the resistance is minimised. No problem moving the table 100mm or so by hand. But much quicker to use the power feed fast speed button for bigger distances than by hand. The latest power feed unit from Seig has an in built clutch.

Paul.

My Seig SX3 mill has recently been having problems and the push-buttons would fail to work although the motor would continue to run at whatever speed it was previously set to. The only way to turn it off was to hit the emergency stop putton. Re-set stop button and everything would work as normal for a while.

I cleaned the electrical connections with CRC contact cleaner and all seemed good. Meanwhile Ausee Machine Tools had a sale on all products and I purchased a spare controller board as a spare. Today the problem returned and I replaced the old controller board, swapping one wire at a time from old to new board to keep track of where they go. With fingers crossed, turned it on and everything works.

When I removed the board from its mounting, 2 large electrolytic capacitor fell out and not being an electronics expert suspect that these were the cause of the problem. The wires had snapped at the base of the capacitors. I am surprised that the motor would still run with broken capacitor connections.

Paul.

Worked as a draftsman for 40 years, drawing board, Autocad, ProEngineer and Solidworks. Do most things now in Solideworks.

Paul

Hi Ian,

I would do it for you but perhaps someone a little closer to where you live. I am in Sydney, Australia. (a great place to visit if you want to bring it here).

Regards, Paul.

Hello Ian,

Where do you live ?

On the subject of oil types.

What is recommended for lubricating lathe slides, headstock spindle, shafts, gearbox, etc.

Paul.

Mr Mike,

I used grease to lubricate the bushes in my hubs. Oil will run thru the bearings onto the ground unless the axle shaft is fitted with seals. (the trouble and strife (wife) would complain bitterly if I stained our driveway with MY engine)

Paul.

Paul.

A recent post had a reference to someone required a tilting table for milling. I recently purchased one of these on EB from india for only Aus $75 deliverred. Great value for the money paid. It has slots to suit M10 bolts and Tee nuts, the same as on my mill table and is very stable.

**LINK**

What type of bandsaw are you talking about (photo required) ? Mine is a cheap Asian saw which I purchased about 5 years ago and is one of the best investments which I have made. I use bi-metal blades which last for ages. Just replaced one after 6 months use.

Nigel,

I did not think of using moly to lubricate the gear teeth on a model engine. And as you have said they only rotate when cornering. What are other peoples comments with using it ?

Paul.

Hi Steve,

The compensating centre should be lubricated and as stated above, oil will run thru and would need regular application which is how the drip lubricators work and grease + dust makes a grinding paste. However the diff gears on the full size traction engine which I drive uses grease. Built in 1926 and travels hundreds of miles each year and still going strong, often on dirt roads.

The drawings for my Ruston show holes in the casting for oiling the pinion shaft (from oil which is in the cavity behind the winding drum) the and a pipe for transferring oil to the axle. (someone on the TractionTalk web site may have a better answer for your Alchin)

I have modified the design, replacing the screw which locks the pinion gear shaft with a long grease nipple. This now lubricates the gears and axle from a common point while locking the shaft.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 10/10/2016 23:47:42

Design data for Fenner transmission belts can be found at:

**LINK**

Hi Dave,

The first thing to check is if you have replaced the jaws in the correct position. They should be numbered and have a corresponding number on the chuck body. Replace the jaws in order, starting with No 1.

Sometimes on an old worn chuck the jaws can be assembled in a different order. This is a trial and error process and does not always work. Check by inserting a round bar in the chuck and a dial indicator.

Paul

Edited By Paul Lousick on 06/10/2016 21:23:46

Hi Mr Mike,

This is link to a previous post of mine showing the building of my traction engine. Not a 4" Fowler but a 6" Ruston and Proctor which would be about the same size as yours.

Paul.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=112162

Edited By Paul Lousick on 04/10/2016 06:46:25

Get a set of these. Available from gas welding suppliers for cleaning oxy torch nozzles or from car accessory stores for cleaning carburetor jets. (also available on e-b**)   The ends of the wires are made like tiny files.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 23/09/2016 23:28:12