Just Started a 4 inch Foster

Ther was a long list of errors for the Foster but not sure if it is still up on the net as teh guy who's site it was on passed away. I'll have a look.

Welcome to the forum too.

J

Here you go, long list is also on Traction Talk Forum but you will justy have to register to view this thread. Also a very good forum for all things traction engine related, probably a few build threads of your engine in the miniatures section too.

And lots of general and generic hints and tips ongoing in Chris Gunn's article on the 4 inch Garrett 4CD. Not specific, of course, but worth a look

Diane

Hi Mike if you click this link it should take you to a page of the errors Jason was wrote about i don't think you have to log.

http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/3225/errors-on-drawings?page=2

Graham

Some of the items of that list are more to do with detail than real errors, just depends how true to the original you want to build.

Best book on the subject is "Scale Model Traction Engine Design & Construction" by Edward George. ISBN 0 9548393 0 7 Out of print a couple of years ago but the odd one does come up for sale and worth paying whatever is being asked for it.

As I mentioned above there are many good build threads on TT forum in the miniatures section, ave a look through those, the guy who compiled that list is also on there should you have any queries.

Edited By Mr Mike on 07/09/2016 00:58:09

That must have changed as most people who have not made a dionation can see all except the "supporteres" section, the only thing you won't see if you don't donate is photos that have been posted as attachments, ones hosted elsewhere view fine. Wait until you get your activation e-mail - can take a few days.

Usual way with a lot of TE front wheels is to press in two plain or flanged bearings leaving a gap in the middle that the oil can flow into.

Edited By JasonB on 07/09/2016 07:30:26

Edited By Mr Mike on 12/09/2016 02:04:09

Hi Mr Mike,

You will probably find that there are lots of mistakes on drawings which have been produced for model engines. Often drawn/converted by drafters who do not have a lot experience or done to a cheap price, hence the mistakes or poor quality drawings. (drawings would cost $1000's instead of $100's to purchase if professionally produced). My advise is to double check everything before machining a part. I had previously worked for 40 years as a professional mechanical draftsman and re-draw everything, mainly to check the compatability of components but to also make changes to suit available size materials.

Paul

Hi just a couple of pics to show I've not been idle. One shows my front hub and covers that have been made from one piece of round 100mm such as the one in the picture. I have since made another one of each from this piece of steel. Another pic shows a hub after I've machinex the slots for my spokes.

Edited By Mr Mike on 04/10/2016 00:45:19

When I came to mill the slots for my spokes I needed to rotate the work. Whilst I had access to a rotating table I wanted to try something new. So I turned a dummy axle that fitted the inside of my hub and after drilling its middle out I T slotted it to the bed of the mill. After fitting the hub over it I could rotate the hub through 360° and clamp it in place for machining.

Edited By Mr Mike on 04/10/2016 01:44:08

Hi Mr Mike,

This is link to a previous post of mine showing the building of my traction engine. Not a 4" Fowler but a 6" Ruston and Proctor which would be about the same size as yours.

Paul.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=112162

Edited By Paul Lousick on 04/10/2016 06:46:25

Off to a good start Mr Mike

I'm not sure what the Foster drawings show but as the hubs were originally cast it is usual to replicate the radiused corners on the hubs which could still be added if you wanted to. It's a bit of a personal thing, some like to get the engine done and out on the rally field ASAP, others tend to like to get the details as original and may not steam the engine much.

Hi thanks for the replies. I'm aware that most use castings but as personal preferance im going to scratch build as much as I can. As mentioned previously the drawings tend to be aimed at those cleaning up castings so some measurements are missing. As for putting a radius on the edges the 3 parts in 1 picture are 1 complete hub assembly. Obviously the spokes go in the slots of the main hub and then the top hat shaped item is solid and fits on the inside of the hub I have put a radius on the part of this that sits up against the axle. The slim 8mm wide biscuit shaped cover goes on the outside of the hub covering the spokes. Since once the whole assembly is in place and held in situ via a collar it is then covered with a hollow usually brass cover to finish it off. Since the 3 items made so far all mate together I didnt think it'd look right with the hub having rounded corners being mated to other items with the same. Instead all 3 parts were turned at the same time to exactly the same diameter so when they are together it will be practically seamless joins throughout out the whole assembly. Obviously this is personal preference

Paul thanks for the link. I was aware of your thread and had studied it previous. You do nice work and I'd actually shown friends your pictures as a reference for what I was about to produce. I'm an engineer by trade so may be biased but I think your pictures of the milled hub are a think of beauty. Now I have my own pair of near complete hubs they have pride of place on my desk at work and currently function as excellent paper weights though I'm certain few other paper weights have as many man hours invested in them.

Mike, it was not the mating faces that I was saying should be rounded, as you say when they are assembled with your favorite epoxy the joints should not be visible under a coat of paint so you need those as crisp as possible.

It is the two inner faces and the outer faces of the inner and outer cover plates, Don't have a good close up photo of the front hobs on my Fowler only this part assembled wheel which were also cut from solid but if you look at this one of Paul's you can see the mating faces are square edged but the other external corners all rounded this can either be as cast on teh model hubs or if cutting from solid added with a simple form tool.

Edited By JasonB on 04/10/2016 20:33:35