Member postings for john kennedy 1

I remember getting my ML7 and being proud that I'd finally made it. I'd got a Myford. It soon dawned on me that I couldn't see what all the fuss was about. It was too small.The bed was worn,the 3 jaw run out was bad and it made clanking noises. I'd been sold a right lemon.

5 years ago at Harrowgate I managed to get a WM250 from Mr Warren, vat free (those days have gone). Cost me £850. Best money I'd ever spent. A very accurate and sturdy machine.

I believe a machine is there to work,not an ornament. I've given it some stick and its been ok except for the dc drive.I have since converted it to 3 phase with a VFD . See my photos.

Would I buy another?. Definitely except next time it would be a 280.

Have a look at this site. Some good mods on here http://www.cign.org/index.html

Hope this helps .. John

Ian, did you put 2 rings in 1 groove only because it was a narrow piston or is there any other advantage?

Many thanks to you both, that's killed a pig .. John

Will soon have the cylinders finished and my thoughts turning to the pistons.

I've chopped the cylinders out of a solid iron tractor weight that a farmer gave to me.

In the series in M.E. packing and O rings are shown as 2 methods, in detail for bronze running in bronze but no details of iron running in iron other than the suggestion of using iron rings.

I have in the past successfully made iron rings for small i/c engines so I'm not worried about actually making them.

The pistons are 1 1/4" d x 1/2" thick.

Is there any advantage to having 2 rings in each piston or will 1 be ok ??

Hope someone can advise please .. John

Did exactly the same thing a while back, except it was with a milling cutter

If it was me,I'd go for one of these http ://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/2MT-SHANK-COLLET-CHUCK-ER32-7445.html

and choose 4 or 6 common sized collets to get you going. (?)

My 2d

John

Thanks George,that confirms it then. If you look in my photos you'll see that the way I have the motor positioned I will need a longer belt than Warco could supply. Think I might have another look at re siting the motor and make the belt a bit shorter. Thanks .. John

Thank you both for your replies. Looks like it is Gates 7M Polyflex

http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/polyflex-belts/7m1320-gates-polyflex-belt/

Not cheap but I'm sure it'll be worth it.

Thanks again .. John

Can anyone please confirm the belt section for the WM250 lathe. I believe it may be M section ?

Since I converted to a VDF and using a longer 'Z' sect belt it has started to ride off the spindle pulley and twist. This causes vibration which is getting worse as the belt deteriorates. .. Thanks, John

Edited By john kennedy 1 on 15/11/2014 09:57:42

The tolerance of +/- 0.1 mm is asking a lot (for me anyway)

Have you got any stops you can set up on x and y ?

Set them up on a test piece to your sizes and you can do it without looking

I made mine a light push fit with a band in the center about 3/8" wide and a couple of thou under size. This method allows the wheel to locate and provides a gap for the locktite. (not my idea by the way) I know it works because when I made the coupling rods I realised the quartering was slightly out. Took quite a bit of heat to release it !!

Bill, how did you get on with the pump ?. Have you an update?

I made a right mess of my first one so shelved it. (now scrapped) Gone back to it and decided to make another. learned that these things can't be rushed. This one I hope is ok. Just got the 3 nuts (inlet,outlet and blanking plug to make,seat the balls and see what happens... John .

Are we talking stainless for the studs ? or doesn't it matter?

You don't want lagging on the pipes.The idea is to radiate heat into the room.

Thanks for that Mike. I see there is one near to John Durrant.

Better still there's one on my doorstep so I'll be nipping round for a look tomorrow .. John

I don't know your area so can't help. I, and I dare say a lot of us are in the same boat as you.

The best I can suggest is save up a bit and buy from here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sme/so.html?_sid=2048038&_soffid=5&_ssn=maccmodels&_sme=Free-delivery-on-orders-over-70&_seedid=360524527486&_sacat=11804&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc

Or here

http://www.nogginend.com/

There may be others ? I have no connection with either but I have had very good service from both.

There's the Midland show coming up, that's not far from you ?

All the best, John

A quick and dirty solution is to clamp a chunky piece of wood to the cross slide and drill/bore to bar size from the head stock. You can always slit it to the center with a couple of screws to clamp it.

Seeing as you are only centering there will be little or no radial load.

Will do for a one off job.

Bought my felt for making wipers here http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/search?query=felt

Brian, I'm only guessing but I would say it should read 55mm 'center height' because it says its

height over the cross slide is 33mm. Please check with the dealer first though. John