Member postings for mechman48

Me too! just broken a BS1, fortunately had enough material to machine away & release broken pilot & start again. Also broke a 4mm tap in a QC tool holder adjusting screw.. didn't realise it was so hard... ended up making another, so had to machine away the collar, left me with a surplus knurled 'bit' for my odds 'n' sods box

George.

Hi Allan

Are you sure you use your milling machine... it looks cleaner than a surgeons sterilised pre op kit... or straight out of the box , just kidding; never the less very nice work

Cheers

George

Here's one I made earlier, about 13 yeas ago, but it has done a few good knurls, its in need of modification so it's another one for the 'toduit' list.

George

Put all the ads on page 1 (I defer to advertisers)... then put we peasants on page 2... grouped together as mentioned, then I can zip down the page & find all I want ... en bloc... simples! ... no doubt some members will surely comment on this solution but ... ce la vie!

p.s. I fail to see on my web browser where page 1 & 2 separate? page 3... is there one? maybe some delineation is called for, as for the mass of white on either side...?

George.

Hi Allan

See my profile summary; drop me a pm if you want to chat more.

George

Katy

Having used the 'new look' layout I think it has a slight edge over the old format, but that's me, what I don't like is the reference sections i.e. 'For sale ' Wanted' & 'Shopping partners' interspersed between ads, may I suggest that these are all boxed together in the same location, then followed by the ads, then there would be some continuity down the page

George

Allan

Super work so far; when parting off the eliptical bar, did it not give you a whacking intermittant cut on the parting tool until you got to full diameter, what RPM where you running at, I gather you were using a indexible insert parting tool (type?),&, what feed were you using (autofeed / manual)? curious to know for future ref.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 01/10/2013 19:40:43

Katy/Jason,

Thanks for the response / tip re. copying text.

George

Looks crisper; have accessed my 'Albums', 'digital copies', 'Messages' ok so far, but! ... when I left 'reply box' to go back to another page 'Messages' what I had already typed was deleted & had to start typing again, is there any way that the reply box can keep what you have already typed i.e 'auto save', there are many other forums that do this, surely it is simple enough to include 'auto save' command into the programme/template?

Previously I have had to 'copy & paste' what I have typed into a word doc, leave the page to go to another then return to a 'blank' reply box, copy & paste from the saved word doc to get back to my previous typed content, finish off what I was typing then 'add posting'

Regards

George.

I have used some old shelving support brackets (the slot in type) screwed to the shelving behind & to one side of my lathe & simply hooking my qc holders onto it.. easy access to all I need..

George.

I hoisted my mill onto the stand using an engine hoist & a 1 ton sling wrapped around the head, butted up against the column, with everything locked up tight, & a little help from Finance director (SWMBO). The same method applied to the WM250.

no damage done whatsoever.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 23/09/2013 19:00:25

Rik

I've just pm'd you my dwg for my carriage stop which uses a common hex head bolt, (if you must have a mic barrel, & have difficulty reading upside down), set your tool to the shoulder / depth you need, measure with a depth mic or vernier & lock the hex head bolt up in that position you should get repeatability at that... & save y'self a tenner plus.

Cheers

George

Edited By mechman48 on 21/09/2013 19:53:22

I have the same parting off tool but have fitted it to the rear toolpost that I made from Hemmingways kit (disclaimer) & it works fine, have parted off Brass & 1" MS under power without any probs but ensured that I had neat cutting oil dripping on the mild steel.

The tool, being horizontal, had some top rake ground on to approx 5-7* to help curl the cuttings,you can just see it in the pic (tool is upside down).

Much more rigid & no flexing of blade or convex/concave washers.Just ensure that the blade is square on to the work.

Cheers

George

Thor

From my previous post:

'Checked oil levels in gearbox & saddle; both were lower than what is recommended so refering back to 'Grizzly' equivalent machine manual..BF20L who suggest ISO 60 grade oil, checked on Google for SAE equiv' .. SAE 20, so bought a litre of Engine oil SAE 15 - 40 & topped both up. Will use for a couple of weeks then drain off & replace all with new SAE 15 - 40 as no idea what the manufacturers put in originally!

Other than that transmission/gear oil would suffice, typically from Halfords (usual discl'  IIRC EP70 - 90 (ref.Rik)

George

Edited By mechman48 on 18/09/2013 10:03:48

Hi Norman,

Read my write up on my chuck overhaul at...

**LINK**

Cheers

George

I used banding strips & tin can strips when I got my previous machine with a 4 way tool post... soon got a QC tool post set... as with Bazyle, wouldn't use anything else now, still considering getting more & I have 18 now... initially expensive but … we’re worth it… Hmmmmmm, where have I heard that before?

Cheers

George

Edited By mechman48 on 17/09/2013 16:39:28

Rik/all

Have been pottering in the garage ... again, & double checked the saddle re oil leak (above post), & what I've deduced, by feel, is that...

1). Operating the half nut lever the unidentified item is the spring loaded detent assembly for the half nut cam... #32 (manual shows it as having a hole in the shaft but must be a dimple) ... as can definitely feel spring & ball action...

2) The other part (#27) is actually the drain plug, identified as 'Screw'...

3) There is a leak from where the half nut lever comes out of the saddle & locates into the 'Handle knob'.. Part # 67.oil is weeping from there down the front of the saddle & hence running under the saddle ending up in the tray.

So I would consider the 3 primary leak points as:

1. Drain plug not being securely tightened/sealed
2. Spring detent assembly oil passing grub screw(sealing again)
3. Oil passing through half nut lever, saddle entry point (no ‘o’ ring / sealing method?).

Plus, as an outside point…

4. No oil put in saddle on assembly( your comment Rik)… I would consider this highly unlikely, even for Chinese slapdash assembly methods …… but?

You can see the spring detent grub screw in the top of the mirror & the drain plug at the bottom, another leak was, as mentioned, coming from the lever bottom position, top right of pic where the paint has been chipped.

So that’s my two ‘pennorth, hope it helps.

Cheers

George

Edited By mechman48 on 17/09/2013 16:14:44

Rick, I have the same problem; when I clean mine down I noticed a film of oil in the tray & closer inspection reveals that there is a weep of oil clinging to the bottom of the saddle, I have checked all fastenings for tightness & all ok, I came to the conclusion that the oil is coming from either the sight glass (Manual part # 30), but there again it would stop once the level reached the below the sight glass, or possibly the screw (part # 27) which I cannot see with the limited view I get between the apron /saddle & tray, nor feel any joint in that location, probably the manufacturer has covered the joint in the process of enamelling the saddle.>>

If you look in the manual there is also an item that is not identified (in mine)...Lathe Apron assembly page... in between parts 27/28/29/30, it looks to me like a cap, spring, & ball bearing on the diagram but not identified? so there is another possible route for oil to escape. Considering the general assembly of these machines it also wouldn't surprise me if the label screw holes have been drilled right through into the saddle & allowing oil to seep past the screws.......

Just been to check on mine & it is this unidentified screw where my leak is, it is a socket gubscrew (used an inspection mirror) but as to its purpose?, I can only surmise from the layout diagram it is the retaining pin assembly for the half nut operating cam shaft (part # 32). Having topped up the level earlier on this year,its still showing 3/4 level, & not wanting to dismantle the saddle at this point, its liveable so its a case of checking the level each week, so I suggest this is your first port of call to remedy

Just a few ideas to ponder.

Cheers

George

Update:

I have just bought a compressor the other week from MM on one of their VAT free days (usual discl' German model, BT-AC 200/24, & have it fitted with one of MM’s 5 meter spiral coil hoses, its noisy but it packs some wallop on output when I tested, It plus a 2 year guarantee.

Charlie S... was contemplating running a static pipe around the wall myself, but at the mo’ I’m not using the compressor that much, so for now…

Someone mentioned Part P… (John S?) My wiring was fitted in accordance with Part P regulations & accompanied with the appropriate installation, compliance & test certification (home insurance notified to this effect).

Have also put 2 fire extinguishers in there as well, not the large industrial (6Kg) type but 1 kg size home model (also put one in the kitchen to boot!) I have now removed the ugly space blanket from my roller door & will be fitting sheets of kingspan/Celotex to the inside, as the door is 1” integrally insulated I’ll only be fitting the 25mm thickness, so, along with my previous post, I’m more or less done with setting up… he sez!

Cheers

George

Neil,

Ooooh I like it, cheered me up on a dismal Fri 13th! ..

Cheers

George