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Member postings for Bogstandard

Here is a list of all the postings Bogstandard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Scriber
20/10/2011 09:30:46
Cheap and nasty from Hong Kong, all they are is a six inch nail with a carbide tip brazed on. But if you are ordering cutting tools from Richon anyway (highly recommended), just add these to your order.
 
 
Cheap and nasty they may be, but this quantity should last you for many years, and for the price, they are not worth making yourself.
 
 
John
 
Thread: pitt bull carriers,
20/10/2011 09:16:14
John,
 
The way they have you sign nowadays is those electronic gizmos, and as far as I know, you can't sign for it as unchecked, hence my wanting to check it over.
 
I suppose you could write unchecked above your signature, but I don't know if that would suffice in making a claim.
 
John
20/10/2011 05:47:51
I'm having a large plasma television delivered today by courier. I just hope it arrives OK and in one piece.
 
It will be well checked over before I sign for it. They go mad when I keep them waiting at the door, as they have very strict times to stick to, but unless I get to check it first, they don't get a signature. Supposedly, you are signing that it has arrived in good condition, how are you to know if you don't check it out first
 
John
Thread: How much ???
19/10/2011 13:27:02
How difficult would it be for someone to say, overall cost, roughly £260 or £470?
 
There are plenty of arguments for NOT quoting figures, but what is wrong with quoting a rough guesstimate. Surely you know a rough cost of what you have done and how much it cost you to do.
 
I personally think it is a very good idea, if the rough cost was shown fairly early on, I might not have to read through the whole lot before kicking it into touch.
 
 
John
Thread: Mill Gearbox Lubrication and cutting oil
11/10/2011 23:38:08
The importers of my geared head lathe recommend a 32 grade hydraulic oil, so it seems like a good bet that it would be fine in most other gearboxes on small machine tools.
I have been using Tellus 32 (or equivalent) for years in machine tool gearboxes.
 
John
Thread: Post-build review reveals one major defect (incompetence)
09/10/2011 08:58:19
I was given two brand new American made optical centre punches, designed for use with steel.
 
I now know why they were given to me, the chap must have been an enemy.
 
They basically consisted of a round magnet with a hole through the centre where you placed the spying graticule. When you were spot on over the scribed cross lines, you replaced the graticule with a hardened punch, then did the foul deed of marking.
 
This worked fantastic for the first time, come the second time, I found out why they were given away.
 
Unless you keep the job, and the surrounding area, clinically clean, the magnet attracted tiny particles from everywhere, and because the centre hole in the magnet was a very close fit for the other two parts, they could not be put through the hole unless you spent half an hour or so cleaning the magnet off.
 
They are both now with new owners, FOC, and I hope they have better luck with them than I did.
 
All I can say is that if anyone ever attempts to give you one, politely refuse and run away, fast.
 
 
John
Thread: Setting up a bandsaw
04/10/2011 20:47:28

I know your bandsaw may not be amongst this lot, but I have found that US engineering retailers supply downloads of their manuals, written in very good English. I downloaded ones both for my lathe and mill from here and they tell me everything I ever wanted to know.
 
Even though yours may not be here, find one that is similar and it may give you some good hints how to set yours up.
 
 
 
John
Thread: Taps & Dies
04/10/2011 13:26:44
Over the years, I have tried them all, even the real crappy carbon ones from a well known supplier who can supply almost any size to the model engineer, All I can say is you can soften them down a bit and use them to make other things out of. Almost all the taps in their full and relatively expensive kits cut oversize and the dies, undersize.
 
I have recently spent over a grand on tap & die sets, getting ready for my final fling, my other Presto tap & die carbon sets have lasted me nearly 30 years, they just don't make them like they used to, but they are now getting rather dull and beyond resharpening. I doubt if my new ones will have to last that long.
 
I now only use two places for my threading equipment, the first is Arc Euro, their HSS serial metric tap sets are fantastic value for the quality you get. The other is the Tap & Die company.
 
Their HQS ones look expensive, but in the long run, or if you buy in bulk, they will far outlast anything else for the price, especially if cutting a lot of stainless steel. They cut stainless as well as a normal tap will go through brass.
 
http://www.tapdie.com/
 
If I am doing a large production job, I buy the taps and dies in bulk, and they come out at around £2 to £3 each. I hardly ever break a tap or die, that is because I always use a very good quality high pressure lubricating oil, and at the first sound of a squeak during cutting, it is got rid of.
 
I suppose it all depends on how much threading you do.
If you only do the odd one now and again, then treat yourself to some HSS ones, but if like me, where I could be doing hundreds a day, then the quality jobbies are the way to go.
 
 
John
Thread: Filing machines
03/10/2011 14:28:23
I searched for months to find a supplier rather than businesses that would make them, for a price.
 
The place I eventually found to supply me some is here.
 
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Parallel-Machine-Files/2215.html?id=TzmenX8s
 
Go down this post to see how I got to that site
 
http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=43223
 
 
John
Thread: Faceplate Runout
02/10/2011 09:33:50
Before any major job, I always skim my faceplate. Since the initial one, a skim of 0.002" (0.05mm) cleans it up very nicely.
 
It takes my lathe, on very slow feed speed, over half an hour to complete the facing operation, but once done, it is spot on for any work I want to do on it.
 
People seem to think that items like faceplates and soft jaws should last forever, but to me, to get the required accuracy, they are eventual disposable items, with a life of maybe 10 to 15 years, so get trued up and recut every once in a while.
 

John
Thread: Machining very thin materials
02/10/2011 09:17:12
I suppose you could easily modify this method to get your discs to size, just trap the discs together between two end plates, and then machine the whole lot, including end plates, to the diameter you require.
 
 
 
John
Thread: Accurately marking centre line
24/09/2011 21:26:09
I can fully attest that Johns precision scribing block/oddlegs work just fine.
 
I made a set when John first showed them, and they are used all the time, and are remarkably accurate.
 
John
Thread: Piston material for S50 engine
22/09/2011 22:00:08
It wouldn't really matter in your situation, but the bronze would be a little better in the wear stakes.
 
You might find a little difference in the machining, but I would expect Stuarts to supply a free cutting bronze anyway, so just go ahead and use it, the sky won't fall on your head.
 
 
John
Thread: Paddleduck cylinder bore query
18/09/2011 05:41:00
Andrew,
 
I designed this engine so that you can do what you suggest, change sizes or materials to suit what you have available.
 
Brass will be fine for the cylinder, as will your 3/8" reamer.
All you will need to do is to resize the pistons, top cylinder cover and gland end cover to suit the bore.
 
The engine will run fine with with the new sizes.
 
Hope this helps
 
 
John
 

Thread: How to tram a mill
17/09/2011 21:54:53
Commercial dual gauge tramming tool
17/09/2011 09:08:20
There is a way around the rubber necking problem with a standard DTI. I was informed of this when my twin clock checker was shown on another site.
 
You can buy DTI's with the clock sitting horizontal on the top, rather than vertical, or you could just use a normal dial indicator with the probe sticking out of the back.
 
But as mentioned, using a single clock does have drawbacks if you want to get a good reading. The main problem is getting it over the table slots, I used to use a bit of litho plate or 100 gram paper to slide it over. Lifting the quill is not an accurate method, in fact the quill should be locked while carrying out the tramming.
 
By raiding my scrap box, I made my double gauge tram for just over 20 squid, the cost of the two gauges.
 
People seem to think that tramming isn't really necessary, or getting it near enough is fine. In fact, without having your mill in correct tram, you won't be able to get a truly flat or even a square cut in some situations..
 
Even though I have a larger and more rigid machine than most, the first thing I do when starting a new job is to tram up and check my vice for squareness to the table, it only takes five minutes at most. It is amazing how easily things can be knocked out of wack if you are doing a bit of heavy cutting.

BTW, if you do have a go and make the one as I described, the final face plate work is the secret to getting the tool spot on.
 
John
Thread: milling
11/09/2011 18:44:06
Garry,
 
This might seem to be a simple question, but this type of mill has caused problems getting a good surface finish for others as well.
 
Have you tightened up the quill lock before cutting?
 
I ask this because the RF type mill/drills (of which yours is a clone) have a tendency for the quill to go up and down at will if not tightened up, so the cutter can go up and down as it travels along the job. On the one I had, there was about 20 thou up and down movement of the quill. Grab hold of the quill, with the lock off, and see if you can lift it up and down.
 
All sorts of fixes have been tried over the years, and I eventually fitted a long compression spring onto the depth stop to keep the quill in the upwards position, but I would always still use the lock as well, others have used pulleys with weights hanging on the end of wires, long tension springs etc to get that quill up.
 
John

Edited By Bogstandard on 11/09/2011 18:45:00

Thread: Dividing Head help
07/09/2011 08:03:04
Gtrack,
 
It's not good luck at all, I've already converted my rotary table (Vertex 6") and the dividing head is basically the same mechanically.
 
For anyone who has a bit of a problem turning handles and remembering where they are up to, it is a godsend.
 
The thing with using any dividing system is not the operation, but if you ever get disturbed and the concentration lapses, you can soon be up to your neck in it. It is an operation that requires no interruptions.
 
 
John
06/09/2011 18:55:06
I've been using a BS0 for about 20 years, and have had no problems with getting spares, it has never needed any. They are almost bombproof.
 
There are a few numbers that you can't get with the supplied plates, but I solved that problem by making up plates with the missing numbers on them. There was a place at one time that sold 1/8" thick plates with all sorts of hole sets punched thru them, a set of four, and they gave me almost all my missing numbers, just had to make a central boss to fit, so that I could use them on the BS0.
 
I am just about to fit it out with a stepper for use with my Divisionmaster, so it will be good for hole numbers from 2 to 9999 at the press of a few buttons.

John
 

Edited By Bogstandard on 06/09/2011 18:57:21

Thread: Suitable high speed spur gears
05/09/2011 12:56:41
Just to get this project back on track.
 
I am sure you could easily revert over to mod gears and if so, a cheap source is here.
 
 
They could be very easily be case hardened by yourself.
 
 
John
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