Member postings for Brian Oldford

I don't have the gearbox model but I can assure you the lead-screw needs to be removed to the tailstock end before the PXF apron can be removed.
I had to do that when one of the screws in the dog clutch mechanism decided to make a break for freedom. Fortunately it only damaged itself and nothing else.

That said, the jaws show very few, if any, dings.

Those with the slightest knowledge of electricity will recall water flow being analogous to electrical flow. Now apply Ohm's Law to your pipework.

Wouldn't it be possible to turn down the shank of the one suggested earlier **LINK** ?

I completely endorse the comments made above.

Additionally I can say I had little difficulty finding the "star" point on my ancient "415v" 3/4 HP Brooks motor when I converted it for VFD use. I think the only motors that may prove difficult are those when the windings have been potted in epoxy.

The only real word of caution is not to rotate the motor at more than its centrifugal limit. Motors designed for 50Hz can do bad things at 400Hz.

Would it be possible to wind a number of layers of self-amalgamating rubber tape around the motor body making sure you don't obstruct any ventilation holes?

Edited By Brian Oldford on 02/12/2019 19:27:40

Hi Roy

Between my other large list of other jobs I'm in the process of fitting one to my S7.

I'm trying very hard to squeeze the stepper motor into the change gear casing at the LH end of the machine.

Brian

Try an Adafruit Audio FX module.

L

I was taught many years ago, when making patterns, to always put ample machining allowance on a casting. It would seem whoever made the pattern(s) for this was absent from that lesson.
It's easier to take it off than put it on.

Weld in pieces of rod that have only been centre drilled. Weld into the plate getting them as square as possible the drill through with a mag drill.

Words of experience?

I doubt the H&S stazi would allow that in the UK.

Perhaps you need some help from Joey from Direct Line. **LINK**

Been there, done that. Eventually sorted it out.

Edited By Brian Oldford on 05/11/2019 17:27:56

Do you have their contact details please?

The water valves on many standard gauge engines are at just the right height on which you can bruise your calf or ankle.

I've already had a board from you and now have the TI module. If you have a spare set of components I'd be glad to have them.

Brian

Despite many of the previous posts it very much depends on the speed you wish to operate. The fixed wheelbase of the engines in use and how much flange wear you'd find acceptable.

Some relief may be obtained by including a degree of gauge widening on the curves and the raising of the outer rail on curves (super-elevation).

Unless you're really on top of your game a better option might be brazing. Even with nickel rods, welding CI often produces brittle carbides at the edges of the weld. Brazing avoids that as the temperature is so much lower.

G26 two part resin.