Member postings for Speedy Builder5

Yes, guns are a bit 'Old Hat' now, but did you see 'Embarasing Bodies' on Tuesday eve.. - The man with half a face. Here was a patient who had half his face eaten away by cancer. Cheek, jawbone pallet etc etc. By use of 3-D printing, surgeons made a replica scull with bits bits missing, then making the missing bits. From these models, it was possible to make a a skeletal jaw 'bone' with teeth, pallet and last of all half a face including a false eye. Not perfect but a hell of a leap for the poor guy.

Hi Roger, that's the problem of using millimeters !!! I used fractions and although it is close, the tubes do fit in using the measurements as given for the Firebox Tubeplate and dimension from 'Curleys' book. He states on page 31 (Smokebox Tubeplate) , that the centre line of the bottom tubes should be 5/8" from the outside of the TP flange. After that, the other dimensions are as sht 5. You may note from my photo that the outer bottom tube holes have 'grazed' the flange - It is close.

Bob

Have you looked on E-Bay ? A second hand sander may give you loads of spares.

I was amazed how quickly oak took the edge off milling cutters. I was making a big CD rack out of 1" oak planks and half housing all the joints (64 cuts 1" x 4" ). The flutes were blunt after the first 20 or 30 joints.

Sounds like it is 'Off to the workshop' to see if I can do a Proper Job.

Thanks

Bob H

In 10 years, we may see magnetic projection sintered castings. Ie, iron powder would be held in a magnetic shape, and fused together in a 'super microwave'

Thanks for your suggestions.

8Ba studs - I don't think I have the skill and the right sort of lathe (Boxford 4 1/2inch) to make proper studs that small. What, apart from being true scale would be the strength difference between studding and proper waisted studs ?

Thanks for your suggestions

BobH

Just a word of warning. Do not get brass or copper filings in your eye - seems a stupid stupid remark as anything in your eye is bad news, but these metals (and many others) are non magnetic and not so easy to get out, also, brass is particularly nasty. Having said that, I have (as above) printed out a paper template and stuck this onto a brass sheet. Then placed the brass sheet on top of a piece of dense insulation 2" thick and used a fine metal cutting blade in a jigsaw (goggles on of course). Just be aware that you don't want to scratch the brass as it is quite soft, so clear the metal filings as you go.

BobH

Thanks for the comprehensive reply Nigel. It seems to me that the strength is more important for getting the bolts out more than holding the fitting in place. So I guess the question now is - Any suggestions for suppliers of the above Stainless bolts 7 & 8 Ba in small quantities.

Bob H

Getting on well with a copper boiler for 5" Speedy but seek recommendation for the best material to use for bolts used for fittings. These bolts go into bronze bushes. In testing, I have used steel bolts (7 & 8 Ba), but some of these have rusted, and to date, one has sheared off. Is stainless a viable alternative and if so, which grade.

Bob H

Looking at the photos from Jacques first post, how is the HSS tool held in place ?

BobH

Look him straight in the eyes and say, You can't frighten me!! I guess that the spell checker is doing its worst here and we are talking cylinder block ?

You could make an expanding soft mandrel, mount the mandrel between centres between centres. Then face RH, then LH ends.

And another point. Make sure you don't get absorbent flooring like mine. You spend a few hours making a very small detailed part and it leaps out of your hand never to be seen again - until you make a second one. And of course, these things are non magnetic.

Thanks for the info guys - You can always rely on someone on this site coming up with the answer.

BobH

Just been asked to make a 7/32" 20Tpi BSW screw for a STANLEY wood plane. No real problem, screwcut then chased.

Question. Why would a manufacturer choose 7/32" x 20Tpi when the norm for this size is 24Tpi. Admittedly, the thread was in cast iron, but then, that was one of the reasons for the BSW verus BSF ?

7/32" was a non prefered size as it jumped from 3/16" to 1/4"

BobH

Problem of using a pair of wedges (If not used in the hole of the quill) is that they can remove the chuck from the morse taper tang, leaving the tang still stuck in the quill.

I find the thing that gobbles space is material and come in handy. If I had the space, I would have a division in the shed with a separate door for the material bit. This would give you one extra wall for hanging stuff on. It also means you don't have to heat up the store shed.

My workshop is only 4m x 3m, so I have to limit myself to the machines and size of project, some tools (wood working) have wheels on them, metalworking tools are mainly bolted down.

Workshop is insulated concrete floor (consider electric underfloor heating ??), 24mm wooden shiplap walls, double insulated and tiled roof. Center of the workshop roof is a 6Kg automatic powder fire extinguisher, plus a CO2 extinguisher by the door.

Sweet dreams

BobH

For me, a good solid workbench with 2" thick oak worktop. I use it for metalwork, wood work, repairs etc etc. I also have a piece of hardboard the same size to protect the surface sometimes and a piece of thick cardboard I use when stripping an engine down. Yep, a good workbench that is free of odd jobs, bits and pieces and general rubbish.

Do you want straight or diamond knurl? I don't know if there is a tool where you can easily change the wheels. I have both the pinch type and the push type. For smaller diameters, the pinch are (in my opinion ) the best, for larger diameters, then the push type are necessasary.

BobH

Now what would be really usefull is if you could have a list of 'Keywords' Like Boxford, Speedy, Superheater etc. lodged onto your user profile. Then any new article with one of these keywords in it would activate a message or e-mail to the user.

BobH