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Member postings for _Paul_

Here is a list of all the postings _Paul_ has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Axminster Power Tools milling vices on offer
21/12/2011 03:31:29
I sincerely hope you have better luck with yours.

I was very dissapointed with the VA vice I bought from Axminster it was so badly made they agreed to refund my money however after not turning up to collect it twice we mutually agreed I would keep it for half price (about £30 at the time) which I guess is still more than it is worth.
 
First thing you will notice is that nice looking chrome handle is such a sloppy *hexagon* fit it falls off quite a bit, interesting finish on it too a sort of lumpy bad grinder texture.
 
Leadscrew bearings are awful as you may find out, the leadscrew in mine has about 1/8" up and down movement bearings are best described as "crunchy" laughably it has an oil nipple which as there is so much slack when used all the oil just oozes straight out.
 
Had to adjust the moving jaw after about a week of use as it developed rather a lot of movement initially is was badly fitted but then it just worked loose, still dosent fit quite as well as one might expect of a vice that is marked as precision....
Even after a lot of fiddling jaw lift is in the unnacceptable range.
 
The Fixed jaw is held by a square key mine dosent fit properly it looks as though the key seat hasnt been machined right.

Mine was painted an awful green colour sort of green the local council uses...paint is quite thick covers some of the worst of the casting roughness/defects though.
 
The list goes on...in the end I put it down to experience and bought a proper Vertex vice what a difference.
 
Regards
 
Paul

Thread: Stationary Engine for Beginner
02/12/2011 14:53:27
IMHO building from stock rather than castings for a starter engine is sound advice.
 
You could have a look at Rudy Kouhoupt's video "Building a Small Steam Engine" I think the one he constructs in the DVD's is only eight parts and is made completely from stock materials, as with all Rudy's videos they are quite informative.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Cutting a Morse Taper
30/11/2011 07:58:26
Morse Tapers.
 
I cut between centres using a device that sits in the tailstock and lets me "set over" without actually fiddling with the tailstock settings.
 
Using measurements from a printed table I have at home set the correct amount of set over then I make my first taper, "blue" it with a felt marker then use a "jump sleeve" the correct size to check the fit.
 
Normally requires a couple of small adjustments on the set over device and a subsequent skims to achieve an acceptable result.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Salvage from defunct inkjet printer
23/11/2011 18:39:56
Whatever steel it is the rods are made from it machines wonderfully!
 
You might also want to check the carriage the carts run in as some have (albiet normally small) phosphor bronze bushes supporting them.
 
My old model "A" Boxford has two of these bushes suppporting one end of the countershaft which came from a massive old Hewlett Packard early colour printer.
 
Some also contain what appear to be thin stainless? shields of some sort which I have found ideal for shimstock.
Then theres the springs, E-clips , roll pins.......
 
Must be my Yorkshire roots nowt chucked out ere until it gets a thorough sorting through
 
Paul
 
 
Thread: Boxford lubricating query
19/11/2011 16:30:03
The groove in your sliding gear is the big channel the peg from the selector on the front of the headstock runs in again access from inside of the headstock.
19/11/2011 16:23:57
I think your benchtop machine if it has any kind of "rear drive" will be the same as my old model "A" and IIRC the spindle pulley screw is an allen key "plug" in the "V" of one of the pulley sheaves inside the headstock, squirting oil into this lubricates the pulley when back gear is engaged.
 
I normal operation the Pulley is locked to the spindle and both rotate at the same speed but when backgear is engaged they are running at different speeds hence the need for lubricant.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: New Blocks on the Block
16/11/2011 22:46:48
Posted by John Stevenson on 16/11/2011 20:16:06:
 
 
I HAD but been paid £3 17s 4d for the development.
 
John S.
 
£3.87 Not much of a bung although thats about a pint and a half of John Smiths at the prices around here
 
I must say I am quite tempted though (with the blocks John Smiths gives me brian dmage)
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
 
 
 
Thread: Milling from a sheet
09/11/2011 08:04:28
I must ask why does this sheet have to be cut on a mill? @ only 1mm thick will there not be buckling/distortion problems if any significant heat is generated.
My personal choice for cutting shapes out of thin sheet is to cut with an air nibbler and then true the edges up with a file.

Regards
 
Paul
09/11/2011 01:42:10
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 08/11/2011 22:40:04:
Well shiver me timbers, is that a square deal, or just a pine in the ash? I surely hope it wood be, so it will be plane sailing for yew.
 
 
Andrew
 
Leaf it out....
 
P
Thread: Drilling in the mill
24/10/2011 22:37:50
I use my 1950's Geo. Taylor Mill as a drill on the occasions I need a very accurate hole, it has no quill so it's up and down with the knee to make your hole no great hardship though.
 
I also have an old Warco pillar drill which is used for the less accurate jobs which I wont part with it for the very reason Norman alludes to, there have been many times when having set up the mill for a run of something I have needed to drill holes in something else.
 
Keep both if you can.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Using a boring head to set over for taper turning
23/10/2011 15:39:27
Hi,
 
Why not make your own centre/s it's what I do.
 
My boring bar takes 1/2" straight shank tools so I get out my 3c 1/2" collet mount some 1/2" scrap bar (mostly from old printers) set the top slide at 30 degrees cut the 60 degree included angle then case harden the tip with Kasenit.
 
Sounds more complicated than it is.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 

 
 
Thread: Fly Cutting
22/10/2011 14:45:37
Hi Steve,
 
If you ran the bought flycutter with the tool steel hanging as far out as the pic shows the finish you got isn't surprising
 
Also Looking at the tool steel in your bought cutter is it the right size looks a bit thin in the pic? if it is that wont help either.
 
In my experience if the tool edge is out beyond around 1/2 the width of the cutter body using 1/4" tool steel (or carbide tipped) the finish starts to suffer depending of course on speed, material, lubricant & depth of cut.
 
Your home made cutter is impressive, a 1.5mm cut with a flycutter is quite heavy.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
 
Thread: Grayson Lathe
08/10/2011 19:45:44
This is what mine looks like:
 






Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Brooks Delta Configuration/Inverter Information
08/10/2011 19:41:28
Linear from here Farnells
 
Regards
 
Paul
08/10/2011 16:44:00
This is the motor wiring

I wouldnt use the drum switch it may harm you inverter, you will have to construct or buy a control pod to suit you particular inverter lots on Fleabay, look for Drives Direct Dave is very helpful (usual disclaimer).

I made my own pod cost about a tenner took me a while to work out the wiring on my inverter and the component value required:
 

 
Regards
 
Paul
 

Thread: Accurately marking centre line
25/09/2011 17:47:18
Posted by John Stevenson on 24/09/2011 20:50:43:
You need one of these.

El cheapo digital and a bit of work on the bench grinder or linishing belt.

John S.
 
 
Thanks John what a simple and very effective idea, just made one now to Bogs design
 
Regards
 
Paul
 
(Apologies to the OP for the OT post)
Thread: Miracle
08/09/2011 22:10:19
Posted by alan frost on 06/09/2011 16:08:26:" I keep putting off using my TIG welder and cheap Aldi stick welder.
 
My Aldi 145 amp stick box is great but eats 15 amp fuses.... or should I say it did ......
 
Regards
 
Paul

Thread: Benches
08/09/2011 21:58:25
Mine is made from 2 old railway sleepers topped with 1" marine ply this is supported by 2x 9" blockwork piers which are tied into the wall of the workshop.
It might sound overkill but my main reason for something this solid was so the Denbigh fly press mounted on it didn't move.
 
Regards
 
Paul
Thread: Calculating Feed Rate using Myford G-box
04/09/2011 17:25:00
Posted by John Stevenson on 04/09/2011 15:42:59:
Repost the photo - sod the Myford.

ROFL

Thread: 3 phase
31/08/2011 19:27:52
If you are going to use a welder then in my opinion a Rotary converter would be a better choice as Inverters are suited to motors.
 
Pros & Cons:
 
Inverter: (VFD) gives excellent variable speed control over a 3 phase motor by being able to vary the current frequency, mine goes from 0Hz to 200Hz potentially enabling a 1425 rpm motor turn at 5700 rpm, I find it very convenient originally with my ML7 changing speeds was a stop the lathe and change pulley affair now it's simply a case of reaching for the control pod.
Dosent like current being interrupted, most manufacturers warn of fitting switches on the outlet side of the unit.
 
Rotary: Copes with interrupted demands (like you welder) downside it has to be running (idling) all the while you need 3 phase.
Can be scratch built quite cheaply.
 
Another thing you could look at is "unique3phase" it seems to be a static convertor but 415v and home made, I eventually plan to build one.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 

 
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