By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Using a boring head to set over for taper turning

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Richard Stacey23/10/2011 15:15:38
16 forum posts

I need to turn a taper which is longer than my top slide is capable of. Rather than set over the tailstock, I understand that it is possible to use a boring head to create the setover. What is used for the center? - all the boring bars seem to have parallel shanks but centers have tapered shanks- any help will be much appreciated.

Richard

_Paul_23/10/2011 15:39:27
avatar
543 forum posts
31 photos
Hi,
 
Why not make your own centre/s it's what I do.
 
My boring bar takes 1/2" straight shank tools so I get out my 3c 1/2" collet mount some 1/2" scrap bar (mostly from old printers) set the top slide at 30 degrees cut the 60 degree included angle then case harden the tip with Kasenit.
 
Sounds more complicated than it is.
 
Regards
 
Paul
 

 
 
mick23/10/2011 15:39:44
421 forum posts
49 photos
Turn one out of silver steel, which will be a size fit to your boring head, then harden and temper to avoid wear. I've never used a boring head to this effect, it sounds fraught with dangers, what if the boring head slips in the tail stock spindle, which I imagine would take the whole assembly below the central axis of the machine, far better to set the tail stock over, you can't go wrong that way, but good luck

Edited By mick on 23/10/2011 15:40:16

Richard Stacey23/10/2011 16:19:11
16 forum posts

Many thanks Paul and Mick for your replies. I'll give it a go and see how I get on.

Richard

John Stevenson23/10/2011 16:35:27
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos
Don't bother with centres as they won't line up anyway when doing a taper.
Use a bit of 1/2" bar or whatever fits your boring head and pop a centre hole in the end.
Do the same for a piece in the chuck but don't remove.
Then mount your work up using two ball bearings as intermediates. This way the angle is always taken into account and supported as well as possible.
 
Only way to do steep tapers.
 
 
John S.

Edited By John Stevenson on 23/10/2011 16:36:27

Richard Stacey23/10/2011 18:09:08
16 forum posts

Many thanks John, your picture shows the set up very well - I'll give it a try

Richard

AndyB23/10/2011 19:27:24
avatar
167 forum posts
7 photos
Hi,
 
Far be it for me to argue with John  but it really depends on the taper that you are cutting.
 
Morse and Jacobs tapers are fine; I have cut several of each using the boring head in the tailstock locked with a drawbar (you can do this on a Drummond but not on a Myford S7!!)
 
I use a straight shank rotating centre that I got from Chronos or RDG (I can't remember which now) in the boring head and a plain in the mandrel, and centre deeply.
 
Works a treat every time.
 
Andy

Edited By Andy Belcher on 23/10/2011 19:28:48

Edited By Andy Belcher on 23/10/2011 19:31:47

Richard Stacey24/10/2011 08:50:51
16 forum posts

Many thanks Andy, I have a Myford ML10 so using a drawbar is not an option but I will investigate a straight shank centre.


Richard

David Littlewood24/10/2011 12:19:05
533 forum posts
Richard,
 
If you want to turn tapers between centres, the ball bearing technique outlined by JS is probably best. However, if you find it fiddly and want to stick to using pointy centres, you would be better using a special curved centre drill to make the centres in your workpiece:
 

The holes so made are are more tolerant of slight offsets.
 
David

Edited By Diane Carney on 02/11/2011 15:01:26

Donhe724/10/2011 14:07:36
37 forum posts
Have any others had trouble with this thread exceeding the allocated
width of the page, with intrusion (or, rather, over-writing), of part of the posts
therein, by the adverts on the right-hand side of the panel??

donhe7
John Stevenson24/10/2011 14:15:03
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos
It's caused by david littlewood stuffing a link up for a tiny centre drill that's 23,986 times as big as the drill.
 
John S.

David Littlewood24/10/2011 14:33:31
533 forum posts
John,
 
Sorry about the length of the link, but it was the only one I could find in a reasonable amount of time. The sad part, of course, is that because of the daft way that the MSC website works, the link is broken... It's the radius type centre drill on page 100 of the catalogue.
 
The word wrap works fine for me, so I don't know why it causes problems for others.
 
David
Les Jones 124/10/2011 16:02:09
2292 forum posts
159 photos
Hi David,

I think if you just put a short title (eg "This centre drill") in the title box for the link instead of the ful URL then this may solve the problem. You may be able to edit your entry that is supected of causing the problem. I could see the problem using Firefox 7.01 but not with IE9.

Is this the link you wanted to insert ?



Les.
David Littlewood24/10/2011 17:41:47
533 forum posts
Les,
 
Yes, it is. (Actually I had tried to insert a link to the detailed description you get if you click on the item, and it was this link which broke, and your one actually works).
 
I had just pasted the url into my reply, as I had not realised that there was that nifty method of inserting links. I thank you for pointing it out to me (and in a constructive and helpful manner); I have learned something useful.
 
David
Les Jones 124/10/2011 17:54:09
2292 forum posts
159 photos
Hi David,
There is another problem that can occur when adding links. If you put in the URL starting with www the model engineers website URL seems to be appended to the start of the URL so it does not work. If you put in the full URL starting with http:// it seems to work correctly.
Les.
John Stevenson24/10/2011 18:56:44
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos
David,
You need to go back to your original post and either edit or delete the long links so the page can be read.
 
John S.
David Littlewood24/10/2011 19:24:23
533 forum posts
John,
 
Just tried to do this as requested (not causing any problems here, but happy to oblige). however, the usual edit button is not there; I have noticed before on this forum that it is sometimes visible on my own posts, sometimes not, with no obvious reason.
 
Anybody care to tell me what's going on, and how to do it?
 
David
David Littlewood24/10/2011 19:25:22
533 forum posts
Oddly enough, an edit icon has now appeared on the above - but not on any of my previous posts!

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate