Richard Stacey | 23/10/2011 15:15:38 |
16 forum posts | I need to turn a taper which is longer than my top slide is capable of. Rather than set over the tailstock, I understand that it is possible to use a boring head to create the setover. What is used for the center? - all the boring bars seem to have parallel shanks but centers have tapered shanks- any help will be much appreciated. Richard |
_Paul_ | 23/10/2011 15:39:27 |
![]() 543 forum posts 31 photos | Hi, Why not make your own centre/s it's what I do. My boring bar takes 1/2" straight shank tools so I get out my 3c 1/2" collet mount some 1/2" scrap bar (mostly from old printers) set the top slide at 30 degrees cut the 60 degree included angle then case harden the tip with Kasenit. Sounds more complicated than it is. Regards Paul |
mick | 23/10/2011 15:39:44 |
421 forum posts 49 photos | Turn one out of silver steel, which will be a size fit to your boring head, then harden and temper to avoid wear. I've never used a boring head to this effect, it sounds fraught with dangers, what if the boring head slips in the tail stock spindle, which I imagine would take the whole assembly below the central axis of the machine, far better to set the tail stock over, you can't go wrong that way, but good luck Edited By mick on 23/10/2011 15:40:16 |
Richard Stacey | 23/10/2011 16:19:11 |
16 forum posts | Many thanks Paul and Mick for your replies. I'll give it a go and see how I get on. Richard |
John Stevenson | 23/10/2011 16:35:27 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Don't bother with centres as they won't line up anyway when doing a taper. Use a bit of 1/2" bar or whatever fits your boring head and pop a centre hole in the end. Do the same for a piece in the chuck but don't remove. Then mount your work up using two ball bearings as intermediates. This way the angle is always taken into account and supported as well as possible. Only way to do steep tapers. Edited By John Stevenson on 23/10/2011 16:36:27 |
Richard Stacey | 23/10/2011 18:09:08 |
16 forum posts | Many thanks John, your picture shows the set up very well - I'll give it a try Richard |
AndyB | 23/10/2011 19:27:24 |
![]() 167 forum posts 7 photos | Hi,
Far be it for me to argue with John
![]() Morse and Jacobs tapers are fine; I have cut several of each using the boring head in the tailstock locked with a drawbar (you can do this on a Drummond but not on a Myford S7!!)
I use a straight shank rotating centre that I got from Chronos or RDG (I can't remember which now) in the boring head and a plain in the mandrel, and centre deeply.
Works a treat every time.
Andy
Edited By Andy Belcher on 23/10/2011 19:28:48 Edited By Andy Belcher on 23/10/2011 19:31:47 |
Richard Stacey | 24/10/2011 08:50:51 |
16 forum posts | Many thanks Andy, I have a Myford ML10 so using a drawbar is not an option but I will investigate a straight shank centre.
Richard |
David Littlewood | 24/10/2011 12:19:05 |
533 forum posts | Richard,
If you want to turn tapers between centres, the ball bearing technique outlined by JS is probably best. However, if you find it fiddly and want to stick to using pointy centres, you would be better using a special curved centre drill to make the centres in your workpiece:
The holes so made are are more tolerant of slight offsets.
David Edited By Diane Carney on 02/11/2011 15:01:26 |
Donhe7 | 24/10/2011 14:07:36 |
37 forum posts | Have any others had trouble with this thread exceeding the allocated width of the page, with intrusion (or, rather, over-writing), of part of the posts therein, by the adverts on the right-hand side of the panel?? donhe7 |
John Stevenson | 24/10/2011 14:15:03 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | It's caused by david littlewood stuffing a link up for a tiny centre drill that's 23,986 times as big as the drill. John S. |
David Littlewood | 24/10/2011 14:33:31 |
533 forum posts | John,
Sorry about the length of the link, but it was the only one I could find in a reasonable amount of time. The sad part, of course, is that because of the daft way that the MSC website works, the link is broken... It's the radius type centre drill on page 100 of the catalogue.
The word wrap works fine for me, so I don't know why it causes problems for others.
David |
Les Jones 1 | 24/10/2011 16:02:09 |
2292 forum posts 159 photos | Hi David, I think if you just put a short title (eg "This centre drill") in the title box for the link instead of the ful URL then this may solve the problem. You may be able to edit your entry that is supected of causing the problem. I could see the problem using Firefox 7.01 but not with IE9. Is this the link you wanted to insert ? |
David Littlewood | 24/10/2011 17:41:47 |
533 forum posts | Les,
Yes, it is. (Actually I had tried to insert a link to the detailed description you get if you click on the item, and it was this link which broke, and your one actually works).
I had just pasted the url into my reply, as I had not realised that there was that nifty method of inserting links. I thank you for pointing it out to me (and in a constructive and helpful manner); I have learned something useful.
David |
Les Jones 1 | 24/10/2011 17:54:09 |
2292 forum posts 159 photos | Hi David, There is another problem that can occur when adding links. If you put in the URL starting with www the model engineers website URL seems to be appended to the start of the URL so it does not work. If you put in the full URL starting with http:// it seems to work correctly. Les. |
John Stevenson | 24/10/2011 18:56:44 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | David, You need to go back to your original post and either edit or delete the long links so the page can be read. John S. |
David Littlewood | 24/10/2011 19:24:23 |
533 forum posts | John,
Just tried to do this as requested (not causing any problems here, but happy to oblige). however, the usual edit button is not there; I have noticed before on this forum that it is sometimes visible on my own posts, sometimes not, with no obvious reason.
Anybody care to tell me what's going on, and how to do it?
David |
David Littlewood | 24/10/2011 19:25:22 |
533 forum posts | Oddly enough, an edit icon has now appeared on the above - but not on any of my previous posts! |
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