Member postings for bernard towers

Don’t College still supply the worm and wheel?

Make one, use 3 or4 mm silver steel drill 1.5mm dia for. A short distance then turn bevel to give sharp edge (wad cutter style). Then mill or grind 90deg window from cutting edge for a short distance ,harden and temper and your good to go. They are much easier to control when used if put in the drill press chuck. Good luck

I’m with Martin on this, when I fitted my NT set up they said only use in the red for short periods so most of the time now I just select backgear for the short period of work (screwcutting as an example) then the vid comes into its own as it then needs to run the motor at a higher rpm

Same here Mikel a real nice part of the world and great bike riding

You could sell the gearbox for a nice tidy sum and use the proceeds to fit inverter vid system.

The list says shapers,spotters etc. it’s down the right hand side on my iPad page

I really have problem with this discussion as some of you are actually looking to mismatch fasteners, why do you think the designers of these fittings made both parts match..I could not in all honesty make stainless or any other material fasteners that did not match. Let’s be fair all the information required for thread sizes /rates /tapping sizes/ clearance/ and ods in the case of numbers is all out there pull it off print and read it.If a jobs worth doing.!!

Peter. 15 pieces of magic which one shall I choose?

Eurocylinders are available in a multitude of strengths, I believe Abus gaurantee one unbreakable one.

Sorry chaps but between centres turning is what it says anything else is not.

Bought 25litres of Texaco Neatcut years ago (25) and am now down to the last 3 litres,it’s been very good but as you say what do you replace it with and in a reasonable quantity.

Try the lathes .co.uk site for accessories info.

Looks like a very good start especially as you only started with a GA ,I’m impressed.

Be careful if using tufnol as it has a grain which may affect the strength of you component in a certain direction. The grain is flat with plate (gears) and with bar is rollled so does limit its uses in tension(eg threaded fittings).

Always mix my two packs with flat coffee stirrers until the mix goes milky ensuring a good mix and plus one for applying slightly warm as it flows nicely, just as an aside whether it’s 5 min/30min/2 hr epoxy that is only rough handling time, no epoxies fully cure in less than 24 hours. I used a lot of slow cure epoxy on cylindrical Mazarin parts and after two days it’s a proper machining job, wonderful stuff in the right place.

It’s proper name is Acetal and is available in loaded versions for greater strength but have the advantage it is a proper machining plastic machining to tolerances very closely something that cannot be said for Nylon 66 and the Ptfe family. Noggin end good for quality plastics(just a satisfied customer.)

When cutting small threads like 1.6 mm it is a good idea to reduce engagement by upwards of 10 % as we are not talking torque level fittings, nice c/sunk lead in and out the other side as your thread strength cannot exceed the equivalent thread diameter. And use the best cutting oil money can buy (ROCOL RTD) it pays for itself hundreds of times over.

Your picture shows outside jaws

Don’t forget the wavy washer that stops the lock unscrewing when spinning the thimble, maybe that’s the original fault??

With pulsating tillers it’s definitely as case of cleanliness is next to godliness and one of the best service items is is a new atomiser tube, you may think you can clean it but to be fair have not tried ultrasonics for this!. As for your seized threads ,drain fill with boiling water and use a hot air gun and plus gas. Best of luck, refined fuel sounds a good idea.