Member postings for Dalboy

It depends on the ply as some will splinter very easy. A coping saw or fret saw with a very fine blade will help reduce splintering as will applying tape to both sides.

If it is a better quality ply then that is not likely to happen as much. I use a powered scroll saw and use tape to prevent the grain on the laminations from splintering and as an added bonus it can also aid when cutting as some act like a lubricant for smoother cutting

I have a Clarke CBG8W grinder that I was going to sell as I have two other grinders one being a standard bench grinder and the other a dedicated wet tool grinder for planer irons and wood chisels.

Anyway I have been looking at a polishing and buffing one so instead of buying one I have ordered a pig tail and mops to fit the CBG8W so spent the day cleaning it down and replacing the grease in the gear box I must admit it does sound a lot quieter than it did. As for the slow wheel I may use that to sharpen drill bits as it is water cooled so not much chance of it throwing particles onto the mops.

I also moved the grinding area onto a mobile base which will be easier to clean and away from all of the machinery.

Vac up after machining I did try the shield that came with the machine but it just gets in the way I found that after hitting it on a long cut in the x axis. I must make a couple of boards to cover the slots which would aid easier clean up

This one has never been run since I have owned it or when my late father had it as he got it directly from Hornby when he worked for the company.

I do have all of the bits to fire it as well as the instructions but no track. I may be tempted to fire it up one day. You can see the gas control at the rear of the boiler.

Yes they did. This was one of the very early ones they made.

Have a LOOK here may be of some help

When I first saw these I thought fuel banjo's for models but the wall thickness was too thin for them

Some more done to the Farm boy today.

Spent the morning setting up the rotary table with the part secured to it. The afternoon was spent with a little machining as that part did not take as long as the set up. This means that the majority of the main machining on this part is complete just some holes to do and then onto the rear part which attaches to this. Not so much setting up.

I found this very interesting worth watching

Edited By Dalboy on 14/03/2023 17:05:12

I have been making a Farm Boy engine at the same time as a Rob Roy loco. So spent yesterday and to day shaping the front body. Still more to go before this part is complete before moving onto the rear body.

I have just started an album for this as I have already prepared some parts into plain blanks to work on. Sorry for the sidways photo

Two mistakes on the same part first was cutting the port face 1/16" to low which I could work around then to add to my woes two weeks later I cut the inlet steam ports 1/32" to wide(picked up the wrong milling cutter without double checking. Kicking myself was not good enough punishment.

Being a beginner is no excuse as I have been working with wood making models where items need to be the correct size.

With 25 years of repairing plant machinery I have never encountered a seal that has not been fitted with the lip facing inwards. That is to say the flat side with all the information on it faces out

Thank you all will give it a go with the square stock I have. It will only be used occasionally.

I have what I best describe as a button insert which I brought some time ago for another project but never got around to making a holder to fit into the lathe.

What would be the most useful steel type to use.

I have a piece that is approx 1/2" X 1/2" steel bar of unknown type but I have a very good idea that it is key steel as that is what I would of most likely had from my Plant mechanic days and it was in my toolbox with other square section pieces.

And as that would have been the only reason for having it in the first place. Now that I am doing model engineering all other material that I now own has been brought new and not square section.

Could that be used as a holder the button is only 6mm diameter. I know whatever I use will need to be machined to suit the insert.

Edited By Dalboy on 24/02/2023 12:22:00

THESE are used by woodturners they are not double ended as your picture and yes they are expensive but they do have a metric scale to read off.

I have a set for when I am turning hollow forms

Could you not just use a plumbers freezing kit and insert a reducer into the system no need to drain the system at worse you will end up with a very small amount of air when you allow the flow to return.

I use a scrollsaw mainly for wood and I use Pegas blades from Axminster tools (I find them pretty good) try checking them out to see if any are suitable for what you want to cut. There are 61 listed on their site

For cutting up to 3mm

Edited By Dalboy on 02/02/2023 20:23:09

Edited By Dalboy on 02/02/2023 20:28:11

Only frost here but still a little fresh outside been in the workshop this morning. 2deg C at the moment, having a coffee then back out in the workshop.

Yes I have three clumps not over large but plenty for us and also give away to many friends. We pick and cook it and make crumbles and pies as well as have some just with custard