Member postings for Dalboy

Part 1

Added to the below is the additional problem for owners without a garage recharging an EV parked on the road outside a residence (cables across the pavement?).

In his videos Stefan Gotteswinter show using superglue as already suggested on a small faceplate or end of a mandrel as you said but with grooves cut into it.

I would avoid double sided tape as some will creep. Some other glues you may find difficult to remove I have in the past used hot melt glue on woodturning but this could not allow your piece to sit flat against you chosen support

Not so much again as what I did today but more like what I have been doing over a week.

Managed to groove and size the axle boxes as well as drill and ream the axle holes and also drill the spring pockets.

Had to making some metal down to thickness for the hornstays as everywhere I looked seemed to be out of stock of that size then onto drilling them and also the horns to accept them. And finally a quick dry fit ready to drill holes in the buffer beams to join them to the main frames.

Hot rolled steel is used to keep the workshop warm

Personally I would start by sanding the two surfaces with something like 120grit paper to give something for the glue to grab onto.

Contact adhesive would be my go to. If the boards sag a little some battons layed across the bottom sheet on the glue do not worry about it sticking as it relies on both surfaces to have glue applied, this will allow you to line up the two boards then remove the sticks one by one and allow the boards to come together once they come into contact it is stuck.

You will need to apply pressure to the boards to really get a good bond so lay it onto something flat and then cover with plastic and place heavy blocks on it as I doubt that you would have something like a vac system, the other method is to have thick battons top and bottom and clamp these the best you can.

Yesterday I had three things disappear first was my epoxy glue to repair something for the wife. then a file I was using put down to do something else and then something else the worst part is not remembering what the third thing was.

And finally today I lost my handle for the milling vise and where was it still on the vise normally I remove it and place it in the draw underneath

I would have thought that they should replace it with suitable sized material as the stock they sent "Was not fit for purpose"

Claiming that they always do it that way means they fully well know that it is wrong and should alter the way they do it, I am glad that I did not buy one of their kits now as that is what I was going to do.

Over the last few days yet more gardening (nearly at the end) then afternoons in the workshop managed to fit the Main horns into the frame as well as turn and fit the two weighshaft bushes

The pile of metal work is getting larger. I also rough milled the gunmetal black for the Axleboxes to find that using the 1/2" cutter left a ridge when making two passes next to each other. Double checked the mill tram but that was OK eventually found why this was happening the mill vise grub screw was a little loose and this allowed the moving jaw to lift the block and cause the problem.

Anyway that problem sorted I got around to taking the block for the axleboxes to final size but this time I used the fly cutter which I am pleased with the finish that it left all this before milling the slot down the length which will be the next job followed by cutting it into six pieces.

This photo of the parts with the axlebox in its rough size.

I did find that I had made a mistake when I drilled the frames and that was the centre hole for the brakes my original hole I had drilled too low and have now drilled one in the correct place now I need to fill this hole. Do I just leave it or counter sink and make a plug and treat it like a rivet and file flat or just fill with a plug and loctite it in place. Suggestions welcome

Edited By Derek Lane on 23/03/2022 19:32:05

I agree many forum are a great source of information but only if you can stop the idiots that keep taking the subject matter off subject.

There was a course that run at our local college but when I enquired it seemed that all it was used for was those that just used it to build their models and no instruction was given either in theory or practice all you had was the other students to ask

Edited By Derek Lane on 18/03/2022 10:29:59

At last the main horns are completed except for the rivet holes which have been marked. I was a little worried when I started them but soon got into doing them after many measurements taken and calculations checked double checked and even triple checked before a cutter touch the metal.

All three sets fit nicely into the frames now it is a case of drill the holes in them and the frames ready for riveting. I am happy with how they turned out, the inner corners will be filed square once they are fitted.

As can be seen in the photo they are still joined, that is why there is a gap at the top.

Something I found in B & M was a small white board with pen and 4 week magnets OK for holding paper. I use it a lot in the workshop when I need to write down a measurement so as not to forget.

I don't need a large one as I am not into getting stickers and wasting wall space, what is it with people collecting stickers other than look who I got one from bragging rights

From the picture in the first post, the loose wire goes to the fuse yet the other terminal of the fuse has a blue wire which appears to go out of the box where does that wire go to

Like any workshop the bench on which to place any machines is a great place to start as long as you know what machines that you want to aid in size and location. under bench storage is a must for many bits and pieces try to incorporate shallow draws which go full depth of the bench as less used item can be placed at the back and the most common items at the front. I say shallow draws as this will save having to dig to the bottom of a draw for parts and tools(Yes I do have draws like that) you do need shelves under the bench for larger bits and pieces On mine I have doors stops rubbish from falling onto them.

High up shelves(within easy reach) are ideal especially for those items always being used on the machines. I keep my clamping set for the mill on mine as well as other easy to grab items.

I know I have only just started in model engineering but have had a workshop for many years doing woodwork and woodturning and the principle of storage is very much the same(Istill do both of these activities)

I use cellulose thinners only because I use it with some of the things that I use to decorate my wooden turning especially thinning some of the primers and finishes

Just watched that video and if you think the the picture above is good then watch it at about 10mins where he plugs in the "Power hammer" not that it is any good be quicker and simpler to use the club hammer as intended

Lunch on the go and I did laugh about 2:12 in when he heard a noise it made me wonder what animals they had in that part of the wood he did look up a bit quick

I would just like to thank all members that helped me with this post and also to those that have offered me some micrometers for a fair price.

I am now sorted for those sizes that I mentioned in my opening post. This goes to show that members of the forum are a great bunch not only helping with information but also helping me sort out what I need which was not my intent when I started this thread.

For the amount of time I will use these sizes buying second hand does seem to be the way to go but if needed I would have brought new.

I use to enjoy Lyle Peterson until he started to only put up "Look what I brought at auction" I am sure that half of what he buys he already has in the workshop. He use to do some good videos on how to make something or other but no longer.

"The only people who never fail are those that never try"

I use to have a Doctor who has now retired His name was Pratt, however he was the old type doctor who was very good nothing was too small unless he knew they where just after a sick note to get time off