Member postings for john fletcher 1

I made the clutch when issue 5 was out, all those years ago. Using EVO glue, I stuck pieces of leather to the aluminium taper and it worked fine, then it started to slip. I went to our then local music shop and bought a "lump" of violin string rosin, which I crushed up. Then, with the lathe running, and with a partially opened the clutch I trickled in some particles of rosin in the gap.. Job done, I still have the magazine and drawing. John

Drink cans are very thin material, which can be cut into strips. using scissors. John

Hello Steve, several years ago I also had Myford G/box problem, on an early type, I bought the lathe and after some months found out one or more gears were broken. I contact Myford at Beeston regarding replacement and they said we don't stock them any more. I had a HPC gear manual and found they did, but the bore was larger, so shrink fit was required and the price was a pleasant surprise as well. I hope you will soon have your lathe back on the road now you have got the shaft out. John

Will some one inform me where I can buy, or better still, build an angle grinder cut off stand. I have never seen one close to, just a picture. John

Nick if you send me your email address I will explain to you regarding your motor connection details, but not on here, to many electricians. John

Hello Richard, I see more progress with the lathe. All the other bits and pieces have almost gone from Howard workshop clearance. Lathe went to a club member and mill to a club members son, all local. What a job Brian and I had, there was quite a lot of metal as well to be moved, and access wasn't good. either so all had to man handled. Happy new you to all and I'll be looking out for Part 3 when its published.. John

Many thank to all who responded to my request for information/help. The tool has just two triangular shaped tips with a recessed hole for the security screw. The existing tip is 2.5mm thick, the sweep is 25mm and from the base to the apex of the triangle it is 8.68mm What I don't want to do is buy some tips which I am unable to use. Having looked on the net there is just so much information of which I don't understand. John

Happy new year to all.

Back again Steve, I have a 6" Vertex and did the stepper motor conversion, as was published in MEW some time ago. I don't have to bother with the division plates now for gear cutting, no more miss counting or thin and thick teeth. One of my most useful jobs in the workshop. John

My mill is R8 and I have been giver a cutter and on the stem part of the R8 some one has engraved TCMT 2 (1.5 ) 7-UM 4025 P25 K 20. The cutter has two damaged triangular cutter. I have been looking to buy replacement but can't find any thing with those details. Will some one please point me in the right direction. Not urgent and will the cost give me heart problems. John

Happy new year to all..

Hello Steve, I've just had a look and notice it has just three slots and I think four is better, as things are generally easier to fasten on to the table. On the plus side, it is shallow so that it leave more head room which is useful. Have you has a loo on Ebay as i notice some of the sellers are doing a package of dividing plates and tail stock. John

For replacement gears have look in HPC gears of Chesterfield and or DAVAL in Hatfield Hertfordshire catalogues both have a large range of gears. John

Generally speaking it is easy to go from Star to Delta, its often shown on the back of the terminal box lid. There was a very good article on "here" a few years ago, with lots of pictures, clearly showing how to locate and bring out the extra three leads required. I'm sure a rewind shop would soon do it for you and then fit an inverter via the net for £50 or so, no need to buy an expensive one with all bells and whistles for the home workshop. John

Some 70 or more years ago when I was a boy, our solid fuel boiler cracked and leaked. Dad being a handy type, drilled and tapped a parallel series of holes, the length of the crack. He then made a patch using a length of copper to fit, and a rubber gasket. We soon had the heating back on. A similar arrangement might be the way forward at minimal cost. John

Out of interest, about a year or two ago a friend had a Brook Crompton Motor, capacitor start and capacitor run with an unusual centrifugal switching arrangement, he asked if I had a copy of original circuit diagram. We had the motor on his bench, he rang Tyco at Doncaster which is now owners of Brook Crompton and who are apparently owned by a company in China. On the phone the 'Tec' said that's not one our motors mate, in spite of what the name plate said, we couldn't believe it. Within the hour, some else phoned and asked had we sorted to motor and could they have a copy of the circuit diagram. John

I like your test rig Maurice a good idea. years ago I had a similar rig for testing dynamos. What my friend was concerned about was, when removing the armature to check the bearing how was he to arrange a keeper to the magnets. I'm pleased to say he has a good spark and I'll show him Maurice's set up. John

No need of a new starter. I'm not familiar with a Crompton 2000, but most probably the latching /auxiliary contacts are in need of a careful clean. Disconnect the electric supply, remove the starter cover and using a torch you will see the contacts, insert a piece of paper between the contacts, carefully push the contacts closed, then pull out the paper. that usually does the trick. Also, have a look at the over load contacts, as they are in series with the latching ones. and they might be in need of the treatment. . John

Is there a way to access REME EMERs? A friend has a an old Rudge motor bike fitted with a BTH magneto and asked about overhauling it. When i was in REME more than 67 years ago there seem to be an EMER for so many things, was there one for magnetos? Alternatively, can any one point me in the right direction for information regarding the BTH magneto. I/we would like to know about these things rather than having it fixed, yes I/we can afford to have an expert restorer look at it. Like wise I could pay some one to do milling and turning for me, which I enjoy doing myself. John

I also buy my glasses from Glassed Direct and have done for the past 5 or 6 years. When the optician gives me my prescription I take it home and insert the details on Glassed Direct platform and a few days later the glasses arrive. They have lots of different frame and styles as do those in the high street, but at a fraction of the cost. Just a satisfied customer. John

Hello Alan, first of all get your friendly electrician with his Insulation tester (Megger)to carry out an insulation test on the motor. That will prove the motor is safe to run being an elderly one, and you did say the lathe was in your garage and hadn't run for some time, is the garage damp as elderly insulation is prone to absorbing moisture. Old insulation wasn't as good as the latest modern type is. A motor starter won't reduce starting current, its a push button switch, it will automatically switch off / disconnect the electric supply to your motor when there is a mains failure, BUT won't switch the power back on again until you the operator, presses the Green button. If the insulation test was OK slip off the belt and run the motor on No load and see if it then trips the breaker. I suggest you follow David George 1 route, buy a proper motor starter which will have No-Volt release and over loads as well. Reversing isn't used very often, ( don't bother follow Howard's suggestion and reverse by hand) in fact the only time I have used mine is when screw cutting metric threads, so not often at all. John

Many thank to all who have responded to my request. I now have plenty of sound ideas to go on. Keep safe, John