lost drive to power feed

Hi All.

Ive had collision with the stop on the power feed and lost drive and was wondering if there was shear pin I've missed.

The motor and the change gears drive fine but there is no drive to the leads screw. I did have a quick look last night but was unable to get the drive box off so i removed the handle and the end cap casting on the right side of the bed but was unable to remove the collar or incremental dial( i thought it may be on a keyway). I didn't want to force it as i can till use the mill at the minute without power feed. Any advise or pictures of the parts brake down would be much appriciated.

Regards

Scud

Scud

Is there an overload reset button on the power feed controller ?
If so perhaps it needs resetting.

Emgee

Is the clutch operating properly?

Can you feel a notchyness in manual mode?

If the motor's not running, rather than mechanically not driving and it's fitted with a Limit switch on the bed, then the plunger on this can stick in, if pushed too hard by the stop fitted on the table.

Edited By Nick Hughes on 12/12/2020 12:16:30

can't feel any knotchyness but when I've removed the change gear cover all is turning fine in there but when i look up in the bottom of the bed the gear that drives the lead screw is not turning but the shuttle lever works ok for left to right and from what i can see appears to shuttle ok. It does look like the drive gear may have dropped?? but not sure if that is just the top of an intermediate gear and should be clear of the lead screw

Nick

The motor runs fine so do the change gears but i have no drive between the drive gearbox and the leadscrew on the bed

You might have to post a few pictures for better replies.

How closely does the Mark 1 power feed and dial arrangement resemble the Mark 2 that is pictured in full exploded diagram form in the manual?

Quick and dirty test is to try and back drive the leadscrew. Best if there is a nut on the end but if not suitable soft packing and parallel grip pliers or similar to get a hold on it should suffice.

If the screw turns relatively freely it will, in conjunction with similar observations of the gear train, help you narrow down where the drive has been lost.

Shear pins or similar weak links like Myfords Tufnol gears are normal in feed drive trains.

Sometimes designers get too clever by half.

Most annoying one I ever saw was a shallow plastic key between gear and shaft instead of aproper metal one. Pretty much unfindable wiithout the book or a full strip.

Clive

I will have a look again tomorrow and get a few pictures to try and show what is happening. But could really do with a exploded view to see how it all works

The Beaver manual is available online, for free, in many places. If you want a printed copy of the same information, you can buy one from the lathes.co.uk website.

The manual would be a good place to start: if you post the link from which you obtain your own copy, then when you tell us "I need to remove item number 7 from page 32 of the manual" we can all literally be on the same page.

Even if the manual does not cover exactly your set up, it will be close due to the family relationship between machines.

I’ve had a good look on the net tonight but unable to find a free manual/ parts book to view. I will try again tomorrow

OK. I have just checked. The manual links (which actually appear on this very forum - you would have found them if you had read through all the Beaver-related stuff here to see if that related to your issue) have expired.

Send me a private message with your email address and I will email one to you.

Dc31k I did send a PM Did you not received it

Hi all well after a good few hours stripping the mill gear box assy down, I’ve found the problem and it’s not good see photos. My next question is where may I locate these 2 stripped gears.

These are the 2 gears required now removed from the box