Member postings for Baz

Instead of buying a die I would buy a tap and run it into all the chuck backplates. I would be very wary of running a die down the spindle thread, you could easily wreck it, I would examine the spindle threads with an eye glass and very carefully stone any damage.

Grindstone cowboy, Baz didn’t have as much to type as you!

I would use 603, if it’s going to get hot, ie steam engine etc I would go for 638

Certainly worth spending an hour or so removing the sharp edges and casting flash on the wheels, don’t forget to give them a coat of etch primer.

+1 for the Medco DD8L, I have had mine for over ten years and it hasn’t given any trouble, I would certainly buy another one.

I wouldn’t be at all surprised if Jacobs are buying from the Far East, nearly every large engineering company seems to be going that way.

I seem to remember Clarkson threads being 20 tpi Whit form and whatever diameter the cutter shank is.

Get a paper clip, straighten one leg of it and hammer it flat and you have a zero resetting tool. Open calliper to about 1” position and slide tool along top of rack until it engages with dial pinion and re set to zero. A bit of practice is required, you will make it worse before you get it where you want it, I certainly did!

To be honest I think any material would be an improvement, how about a piece of brass? What does the mating piece, the dovetail, look like?

Dell, that is a beautiful lathe you have got, you will certainly do more on it than you could on a Pultra and lots of accessories available including a milling attachment, ideal for your confined space. On the plus side at 6 x 6 it won’t cost you a lot to heat this winter.👍

Have a search for watch glasses, watch repairers or your friendly local jeweller. Watchmakers supply company, Carterton Oxfordshire, rings a bell, may still be trading, don’t know for sure as I have not used them for many years but they stocked hundreds of watch glasses.

Here we go again, the usual Myfords are not real lathes, so bobcha, what do you call a real lathe, just so we all know what to buy.

Yep you got it ! Other bit you circled in red is possibly safety valve and steam outlet.

The tube is open at both ends, water flows through it.

Most of the model engineering suppliers sell loco springs, measure what you have got and get stiffer ones, failing that go to industrial spring suppliers.

Just bumping this up. Thought loads of you would have some advice on this.

If you face from the centre outwards you should not get a burr, I would leave a sharp edge and let the stainless bed in to it.

Don’t see any mention of how sharp the cutters are, if they are carbide or HSS, a decent brand or cheap rubbish ones also the OP says he is using the correct rpm for cutter size, where is this information gleaned from, big difference between model making feeds and speeds and those that are used in industry, how true is the cutter running, exactly how rippled is the surface, maybe a photo will assist us, maybe it’s just a standard finish from the side of a cutter, how experienced is the OP,

All you need is a lump of cast iron or steel to make an adapter plate and you’re in business, I have seen a Myford capstan unit grafted on to a Colchester Chipmaster with great success.

Step drills are for drilling two or more sizes of holes at once, for example a 6mm diameter hole with perhaps a 10mm counterbore. A 10mm drill would be spun down to 6mm for the required length and the counterbore part either flat bottomed ar sharpened to whatever angle is required. Tin drills are used for sheet metal, they are shaped like an upside down W, central pilot and just the outer edges cutting.