Member postings for Baz

Don’t want to speak ill of the dead but Don done very little and wrote a lot. An industrial method for finishing a bore is to grease it well and press a hardened ball through it, not sure of how much underside the bore should be but no doubt someone will tell us in a while.

Grit blasting or cellulose thinners would be my first choice.

Company I used to work for 40+ years ago used to make diamond tooling, we used to machine eight inch diameter ally on a lathe, cannot remember the make, with an air bearing spindle and the finish was a true mirror finish, for about one minute until the ally started oxidising. Vic be careful if you use them on a hobby lathe, you will not have the speed or rigidity and the slightest bit of chatter will most probably chip the insert. If you do mess one up all is not lost, you can still use it to dress your grinding wheels !

If you are buying it from China I would recommend you check every single piece with a magnet, their certificates of conformity aren’t worth the paper they are written on.

I seem to think runout on collets, collet chucks, 3 jaw chucks and anything else that is attached to the lathe spindle has been done to death elsewhere on this forum. Why can’t people use the search function rather than keep asking the same old questions.

Just out of interest what aircraft is it and does he intend restoring to air worthy condition or just as a static display.

Graham you have a PM.

I have two Machinery’s handbooks an 11th edition and a 25th edition, they have been consulted once in the last ten years, I have consulted my edition of Model Engineers Handbook perhaps once every couple of months so I know which one will be going to the charity shop first!

I have bought some Dasqua kit from Chronos and I am very pleased with the quality.

Congratulations on your purchase David, you should get a lot of pleasure from it. I have a Taig Micromill CNC and it has given me many hours of pleasure and made many hundreds of components. Nothing wrong with Mach3, a lot of people will tell you it is now unsupported but so what it works, the XP computer I run it on is also unsupported, I have never had any issues with either. For cad software including cam I suppose the best is Fusion 360 as it is free, never used it myself but lots on here use it.

I agree with Noel, coat the insides with something like Waxoyl or old oil, that as Noel says will creep in everywhere and give some protection, I suppose you could also try car underseal.

Hemingway sell a couple of pairs that are suitable for their kit built knurling tools, they seem to be good quality, I am certainly pleased with the ones that I purchased from them.

Must be nice to be so bl**dy wonderful, I am just a mere mortal, I had to do an apprenticeship for five years and seven years at college to learn from others and I build from plans so obviously I am too stupid to think for myself, I have never used the ignore member feature of this site but in your case I will make an exception.

Totally agree with Dave Wootton where I was trained you would be taken in the office for a severe boll**ing, as Dave says its 50 years ago, strange that I can remember it all so clearly but cannot remember where I put a parting off tool yesterday.

I would choose option 5, return to supplier and demand a replacement casting. It won’t take long to re machine a new casting, possibly about twice as long as you will spend fiddling about trying to salvage the original one.

Edited By Baz on 17/08/2023 19:51:06

ER holders are available to screw directly on to the Myford spindle nose. Try looking on Arc Euro, Chronos and new Myford / RDG websites, they should be available in ER 25 and ER 32 sizes.

As Bizbilder says paint a test piece, nobody on here will be able to tell you with any certainty if the paints will react, it’s something you have to find out yourself for your particular application.

I painted the inside of a small five inch saddle tank, the tank was an ally casting and I used Precision Paints etch primer and their gloss cream paint, looked lovely but once water was in it was a different matter, the paint started coming away. The tank was removed and the paint stripped off the inside back to bare metal and coated with West Systems epoxy, I drain the tank after use and after a couple of years use it seems fine.

All depends on what you or your mate consider a fine thread to be, how many TPI. I would strongly recommend purchasing a book on screwcutting, you would then be able to calculate your own gear train and know what gears to purchase. “The gearing of lathes for screw-cutting” by Brian Wood being one such book.

I had a set of dies from Tracy Tools many years ago that would strip threads, turns out that their supplier had got hold of a batch of solid dies and was slitting them with an elastic wheel, trouble was they were twisting and going out of pitch. Must admit that stuff I have purchased from them recently is all ok.