Member postings for Terryd

Hi,

I have the same problem, first time I haven't been able to access both magazines.

Terry

Hi Norman,

These rests are really intended for grinding woodworking chisels and plane blades before final honing, not really for machine tool bits. For the cost of these it is really quite economical and more useful to make the one by Mr Hall in his book. it didn't take me long to make mine and it was an interesting exercise refreshing many of my rusty skills.

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi Neil,

Mazak as used in diecast toys is not really suitable for home casting, in terms of modelling and ease of casting low temperature white metals can be used which melt at less than 200ºC, However mazak as used in die cast toys melts at around 390ºC and needs comparatively high pressures into metal dies to achieve fine detail. White metal casting is possible at home with simple equipment and is the basis of many small 'cottage industries' such as scale figures for model railways and 'Wargames'.

My previous neighbour used to make quite exquisite military figures which sold for comparatively large sums using white metal, silicone rubber moulds and a centrifugal casting machine in his garden shed. A standard soldering iron will easily melt such models without care, however he was able to solder fine detail using a 100 Watt soldering iron and low temperature solder. "Only a matter of practice" he would say as he blithely soldered a scabbard to a 1/35th scale Prussian officer - his sword was removable and the roundels of his tiny spurs rotated - the Prussian's that is, not my neighbour's .

Regards

Terry

Hi Neil,

Boss White is still widely available, I'd be surprised if Plumb Center don't have it but, Homebase certainly do,

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 30/12/2012 22:40:01

Edited By Terryd on 30/12/2012 22:41:10

Hi,

Unfortunately the Axminster grinding rests only articulates in one axis plus vertical movement while Mr Halls articulates in two axes plus vertical making it far more versatile than the commercial one.

I use the original bolt down method, but with two angle irons at right angles to each other on my grinding table, which is a piece of 12mm plywood which I clamp to any suitable surface when I need to grind a tool.  I don't find this at all inconvenient and much lesss expensive than the magnetic bases.

Best regards for the new year,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 30/12/2012 22:28:43

Hi Les,

Have just checked the lathe spec and apparently it uses a DC motor which probably explains it,

Regards,

Terry

Hi Les,

My Milling machine (equivalent to Warco WM18) and Warco lathe WM280V-F have single phase motors and variable speed. How is this achieved if what you say is correct. I know little about motor control,

Best regards for the New Year,

Terry

Hi KWIL,

Thanks for confirming that, I also believe that the licence is non transferrable - can you confirm that also. Of course this is not the case with free Open Source software.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Rob,

First thing to do before removing metal from your chuck - you can't put it back on - is to clean off all of the anti corrosion wax/grease as it is very viscous and can cause initial stiffness. I am also not in favour of grease for the same reasons as above but I use a dry ptfe based high pressure lubricant which does not attract any swarf or gunge.

If this does not cure any stiffness, use the chuck for a while to 'run it in' and if the problem persists only then would I start deburring or otherwise removing material.

On the HBM 3 jaw SC chucks the jaw numbers are usually stamped in the channel on the side of the jaw and the same on the chuck body.  the jaws on a 3 jaw SC chuck are rarely - if ever - reversible due to the nature and geometry of the spiral, the 'teeth' on the jaws are a compromise to accommodate the changing radius of the spiral scroll.

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 29/12/2012 15:56:56

Hi David,

You have to be careful about the licencing arrangements for proprietary software. Often the user does not own the software as such, the originator (e.g. Microsoft) of the software actually owns it. The user merely buys a licence to use it and the licence is non-transferable.

Under the EULA it is probably necessary for you to buy a new licence if you really wish to use it for any purpose. My advice would be to follow the 'free download' route as John S suggests.

By the way this also applies to downloaded digital music. as I understand the law, unlike recorded music such as tapes or vinyl which could be sold, digital music belongs to the supplier and you only have a non-transferable licence to play it, you cannot sell it.

Regards

Terry

Hi,

That is exactly how I was taught and did so for many years using the shaper, one of my favourite machines,

Regards

Terry

Hi Peter,

I agree with Les. It is a long time since I used a shaper but the way the clapper box is set up on your picture shws that it will try to ift back into the workpiece.

Terry

Hi Philip,

1) I use ordinary cheap pounshop cyano acrylate (superglue) for locating parts for rivetting and drilling etc. I locate the parts then let capillary action attract the liquid glue into the joint, it doesn't need to be perfect for a temporary job. If you feel the need to take time to adjust parts yiou can use the gel type which takes longer to set or even the long time setting types which use an accelerator to finally set the glue.

2) The bond will break down at relatively low heat, so you can simply heat the job to release parts if you find inaccuracy, relocae and re-fix

3) I have used the method for many years and haven't really had a problem when fastening metals.

I use it to hold parts together when I need to transfer holes accurately from one part to another such as when making toolmakers clamps and a low heat will release them after drilling.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Pete,

It is possible to feed solder. I also use paillons and start the soldering process, when the job (not solder) is hot enough teh solder will flow. on larger jobs the heat is then carried around the joint and th esolder will flow as it follows the heat. Stick solder is applied to the heated job in lag of the flame so that it is the job that melts the solder not the flame. By the way I use borax for all temperatures of solder from low temp up to enamelling grade and it works well.

My experience? first soldering work in 1970 as a trainee silversmith using step soldering and have used the techniques learned since on many jobs including successful boilers. I was taught by a real expert of many years experience himself, and have improved my skills empirically ever since,

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi KWIL,

But they charge a minimum of £4.50p for postage which makes it less of a bargain,

Seasons greetings,

Terry

or a charity shop where I managed to get several old alarm clocks for around 50p each.

Seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi Mat,

It is not difficult to dismantle the input shaft. you just need to remove the drive gear from the end of the input shaft, then the collar with the key simply slides off after knocking out the remains of the shear pin with a slim pin punch.

My leadscrews turned when engaged but stopped when I engaged the half nuts. It was the inherent friction between the collar and driveshaft that was driving the shafts.

Hope that helps,

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Hi Neil,

It is because of the problem of long links causing the message column to become wider and getting covered by the adverts on the right. If you don't like it you can attach your links to a suitable word in the text,

Seasons greetings and best regards,

Terry

Hi Mat,

Oout of 'jamas now (but fully clothed), so here is a scan of my gearbox parts list. The pin is item 16 and secures the gib key collar (item 15) to the input shaft of the gearbox.  Click on picture to enlarge:

Hope this helps,

Seasons greetings and Best regards,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 23/12/2012 10:11:41

Hi Mat,

I had a similar problem on my Warco lathe. A different model to yours but could be a similar problem. If you study the parts list there is a shear pin in the drive gear on the end of the shaft. This is designed to shear in order to protect the machine in the type of event you describe. If you don't have a spare in the supplied toolbox a piece of brass of suitable diameter will substitute. Don't use steel just in case of further 'accident'.

I'll have a look at my parts list later as it is in my detached workshop and I am in my pyjamas at the moment - not a pretty sight

Regards and seasons greetings,

Terry