Member postings for Trevor Drabble

Karl , sent you a PM.

Trevor

My method would be to attach two longish flats , as per MG , with one held in a vice , and the other having a weight at its end . I would then apply a strong flame to the inside of the curve for a short while , and then leave the combination of the contracting metal and weight to SLOWLY remove the be d . Repeated applications may be neccessary .

Further informationon brazing options here at Johnson Matthey - Brazing Filler Metals - Ti-Flo Filler Metals.

Trevor .

Robin , Would suggest you look at the voltage regulators from Component Shop .

Trevor .

NDIY , For cost of postage , I have some CI rods and flux available I have used with oxy-acetylene for use by your welder if reguired .

MG , BRILLIANT

Trevor.

Marc , Good idea . Sorry , but can't remember grade or quantities for various sized chucks . From memory it was quite light . More important though , is not to over-fill it because the internal volume in which the oil can move is very limited . This fact coupled with the close tolerances can result in the excess oil forcing the frame , and consequently the operating handle , back from the horizontal right hand position back up to an angle of about 25/30 degrees .

Mark , Depending on the source of the wear , yes it is possible , though as far as I am concerned , not advisable . Depending on age of chuck , the chuck is assembled using a combination of screws ( to maintain integrity ) and dowels ( to maintain relative locations) between the steel top plate , aluminium frame ( non-magnetic ) and the steel base plate . Most regular problems used to be caused by the oil leaking out and so needing excessive force on the handle and it's internal eccentric and connecting link to move the frame which carries the magnets . This in turn lead to excessive wear in the reamed hole in the aluminium frame carrying the handle shaft , which then leaked more oil and also prevented full and correct movement of the frame to the detriment of the chucks performance .

I obviously have no experience of Eclipse's present proceedures , but when we received repair items , we fully stripped them and replaced any worn parts . That included fitting new end and back stops on chucks which were returned without any . All were then de-magged and fully re-magnetised using special kit we had developed by Eclipse's chief designer Billy Bower and all built internally .

Martin , Wish I'd got a pound for everyone of these I've assembled and ground up . These Adapter Blocks were normally supplied as matched ground pairs in a polished wooden box to protect them . I started my apprenticeship in August 1965 in Magnet Division of James Neil.

If a thin workpiece is placed across the chuck pole piece and the body of the chuck top plate , the throw of the flux is such that it passes straight through the work piece and so in effect only holds it in 2 places per line of flux .The purpose of the adapter block is to shorten the path of the magnetic flux such that all the flux stays within the work piece , and thus holds it much more securely . This shortening is achieved by using alternating laminations of magnetic (steel) and non-magnetic ( brass) materials . Similarly , brass rivets are used so as not to short-circuit the lines of flux .

For the block to work effectively it is important that both the chuck top plate and the working surfaces of the adapter block are finely ground and without imperfections . Similarly , as has already been indicated , positioning and orientation over the chuck pole piece and top plate are crucial.

We also offered far better solutions to the problem of grinding thin work pieces in the form of a far more complex structured Fine Pole Top Plate . This was available either as a supplementary top plate ( again in a protective polished wooden box ) which in the main removed the chances of poor positioning by the user , or was factory fitted in place of the standard top plate on final assembly .

Andrew , My vote is for either the Lumatic OLGH/CV , or if funds allow , the Wanner 30960 . Neither will be cheap these days . Assume they available from any good Lubrication Engineers or maybe Cromwell Tools .

Trevor .

Stokes Paints in Sheffield ( 0114 258 9595 ) used to produce very good machine enamel in small quantities to your choice of colour . No connection to company other than very satisfied passed customer .

Trevor .

Gareth , As an alternative may I suggest you consider a company called BLACK-IT on www.black-it.co.uk and 01758 730356 . I have no connection with the company .

Trevor .

Martin , I have some 1/4" square section cast iron for use in welding Ci with oxy-act. You are welcome to a sample piece if it helps . If you PM me your details I will drop you some in the post .

Trevor .

Peter, I believe RDG sell them , and I assume they will be at the Alexandra Palace model engineering show in January.

Trevor.

Mike,

Cibie Z180 . A pair cost me a weeks wages from Larkspeed to uprate my Wolsley 16/60 headlights by 20 years in 5 minutes . Best money I ever spent .

Trevor.

Mark,

I believe Hemmingway can supply dividing head kits.

Trevor.

Mike ,

In the past I have had the same experiences as yourself with mesh . Tried the gas torch route , and that was a spectacular failure . In the end , like JA I used a large soldering iron which I allowed to get really hot before using it . I found that if I thoroughly cleaned the mesh with clean emery , wiped it with Bakers Fluid and then tinned it with resin cored solder first and then went over with lead solder , it worked fine for me . Regarding stainless , it depends on whether it is austenitic or non-austenitic , which determines whether it is magnetic or not . If your mesh is actually stainless steel , then if required I can supply you with a small amount of solder specifically designed to soft solder it.

I hope you will find this information of use .

Trevor

Dennis ,

Many thanks for the info , much appreciated . You've just saved me some serious frustration .

Trevor .

Scrumpy ,

Would the Stuart Models dynamo be suitable , albeit expensive ?

Trevor

Michael,

My suggestions would be that after rough boring you use the boring tool to create an annual groove in the bearing directly under the oiling point so that some of the oil can easily travel to the bottom of the bearing . Then turn the tool so it is pointing down and create a stopped groove running out along the bottom of the bore either side of the annualar groove so as to distribute the oil . In this way oil will always be available instantly upon start up and so extend the life of all mating surfaces . You should also obviously use the stoutest boring tool you can get in the bore in order to reduce spring and thus avoid bell-mouthing . Repeated final cuts should obviously be taken without any additional cut being applied . The finer finishing cuts should be applied using an angled top slide so as to allow you to better apply small cuts . In addition , you will find it beneficial to change the feed to a different feed , and preferably one which is not a permutation of previous feeds . In this way you will have a better chance of removing more of the peaks from the final surface finish.

Trevor.