Member postings for chris stephens

Hi Ray, if you haven't watched it yet a YT video from Shadon HKW called "2 speed motor VFD application" might help you to show how to safely keep your safety interlocks, just ignore to part where discusses two speed. and drum switches.

chriStephens

Someone is going to say it so it might as well be me, the inverter makers recommend direct connections between VFD and motor, contactors are not recommended between the two.

Hi Norman, so not only are they copying the nanny syndrome, they even copied someone else's initials, what a loads of t*****s.

Still, disgusted of Pinner

Hi MichaelG,

Oh dearie, dearie me what has become of the world. The ASA has no sense of humour or as the actor implied a sharp wit. All "hazards"/"risks" are implied not factual. It's as bad as SMEE closing it's workshop (temporarily we hope) on safety grounds.

RIP common sense.

Disgusted of Pinner

Hi Brian, are you thinking of the complete kit or a DIY set up? The DIY route is not difficult and can be cheaper. Whichever you go they are worth the effort, it will quite transform your lathe.

Re vibration possibly due to belts, are you using "cogged" belts and do you release the tension when not in use to reduce the risk of putting a set in them.

chriStephens

Never mind rotten or not tomatoes, buy tinned ones and concentrate your fire-power.

True enough Jason but does that apply in this instance?

Corollary to Neil's point, if you do, make sure to count your fingers afterwards, at least with the first two.

The main underling force that drove the changes in media was the demand by consumers for more and more choice in the material they view and the need to view it at a time of their choosing.

Hi John, don't you mean the advertisers were clamouring for more channels to increase their revenue, I have never heard a viewer say anything other than there are too many, with the concomitant result of lack of quality as any quality there maybe is now spread too thin. Jaundiced view, I think not.

Thank goodness we now have Youtube and the likes of Tom Lipton(oxtoolco) James Kilroy, Keith Fenner , April Wilkerson et al.

chriStephens

The easiest way is surely to have a vee block on a morse taper in the tailstock and a drill in the lathe chuck. At least Myford and Southbend thought it so as the sold them for that purpose. The old ideas are often the best, what.

Always aim for perfection, but it is OK to settle for excellence.

Many years ago when I used to help service narrow boats for hire, I learnt from an old timer that there were several degrees of quality. There was idiot proof, then came squaddie proof, then best of all hirer proof! Some of which you wondered how they got to be old enough to hire.

When working on old cars it would be a mistake to assume a continental car is all metric or that a Brit one is all imperial. It is also foolhardy to assume that a metric diameter has a metric thread. As an example Lancia petrol fittings can be 20mm by 20TPI and not 20 x1.5mm , the voice of experience speaking. Old Morris cars use metric thread on their engines but have BSW head sizes and back to Lancia, early ones use unified threads but have Metric spanner heads. It is a bit of a minefield for the unwary.

On the part in question, if you are making a replacement for a lost item, is there one on the other side of the car you could copy. If you can borrow one, you can use the wire wrap method to match new to old. On a thread that large don't go looking to work to tenths, a half millimetre tolerance on dia,might be close enough! ~Better a bit too small rather than too large.

Good luck and don't forget to charge accordingly, never heard of a poor Bugatti owner.

chriStephens

Another good thread info site is Maryland metrics http://mdmetric.com/thddata.htm

Thanks for that Michael, I'll do some experiments next time I buy a tube.

chriStephens

Hi Guys,

Thinking of Hylomar, it can be thinned for application with a brush but for the life of me I can't recall what I was told the solvent is, can anyone help?

chriStephens

Hi John,

So that's what easy outs are for, I thought they were hard inserts for plugging holes.

chriStephens

Hi Neil,

Ever tried a tangential parting tool?

chriStephens

Hi Howard,

Could you perhaps have meant 30 degrees?

chriStephens

PS "original" is really back in late Victorian times but I understand what you mean.

Hi Graham,

You can get excellent repeatability with a tangent tool, well I seem to manage to, as sharpening is by jig. Just replace the cutting tool so it has the same height as before. As for your composite material I think that is covered by "people who turn something tough" and "when its use is justified", don't you? Of course you must use your expensive tips, you have no choice, but the OP was only turning easy to machine metals and I suspect a good finish and accurate sizing cuts are important to him, again a good candidate for a tangent tool. For the average Joe, insert tooling is a solution in need of a problem, when a few minutes being shown how to sharpen would be better solution. There are alternatives to indexable tipped tools and at considerable cost savings too.

I turn mostly stainless if I have a choice, time is money as you say, and I can;t be bothered to waste time to make something only for it to start rusting. I have to say though, don't go getting ulcers worrying about saving every last second, relax and smell the roses, works for me!

ATB

chriStephens