Member postings for John Hinkley

Your forum pseudonym suggest you are into cars etc, so maybe you have a torque wrench that you could attach to the Z-axis wheel by some means. Start off at a low torque setting and gradually increase the torque until it "clicks" or read directly if it's the bendy bar type and then I would add 50% for luck and aim to get a stepper motor that will supply near that figure. I have nothing to back up this method, it's just the way I would approach the problem in your position.

John

Hello, Simon and welcome to the forum. I'm sure you will be able to receive a lot of useful advice from the fellow members

As regards your specific query I remember at least one contributor who has fitted an ELS to their Myford lathe, so hopefully they will be along soon to give you some guidance. In the meantime, I have fitted an ELS, and specifically one using James Cough's proprietry parts to my lathe , which is very similar in size to the Myford ML7, although it was manufactured a little further east of Beeston. There is a brief description of the process in my album here:

Fitting an ELS to my lathe

And a rather more comprehensive series of videos on YouTube, here

It was reasonably straight forward to do, though I did have some awkwardness with some of the wiring. Someone with your background should breeze through that, I would think.

Anyway good luck with the project, you will find it an invaluable addition to your lathe, as I certainly have. Beats changing gear sets hands down, both for metric and Imperial threads as well as the ability to alter feed rates on-the-fly and producing left- or right-hand threads at the push of a button.

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 29/03/2023 19:56:20

After a couple of days deliberating whether to or not, I finally grasped the nettle and did the finishing touches to the adjustable vice stop. It's been an accessory that I've been meaning to make for, literally, years and only just got around to making. The YouTube videos ended with it looking somewhat crude but effective, so yesterday and today I made the effort and rounded off the sliding clamp and made a couple of knurled thumbscrews. The fixture for attaching it to the rotary table took a couple of days to draw up in CAD and cut out on the router. Actual machining time was maybe a tenth of that. Isn't it always the way, though?

Here's the finished article in a mock-up situation:

John

Glad to see Paul MIlls 4 has got what he wants. Does that mean that Paul Mills 3 (the OP) will do the same, I wonder? Pete White falls into another bracket with his Linux set-up, unless he goes dual-boot with Windows when he will get the best and worst of the deals.

I treat my preferred 3D CAD package (Alibre Atom) as just another tool in the workshop armoury. As such, sometimes you just have to look big and pay up, as you would do with any other tool, be it a humble lathe tool or the lathe itself. If the drawing package you select suits you and does what you want it to, go ahead and buy it, I say. I found Alibre reasonably easy to pick up and it will export 3D drawings as dimensioned 2D files in several formats as well as STEP, and STL for importation into 3D printer slicer software such as Cura, for example, which I thought was the OP's requirement.

My 2d,

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 23/03/2023 10:25:18

Unless I'm very much mistaken, that's a 4-jaw independent chuck, so you can start by winding each of the jaws fully out until they disengage from the screws and give it a jolly good clean with a suitable solvent/de-greaser. Then you should be able to see how to remove the screws themselves. I would think it will be unlikely need any further strip down, however, just a good quality lube with some oil and you ought to be back in business. Unless there's some hidden damage we can't see.

John

Nigel - first prize for faster typing!!

Edited By John Hinkley on 18/03/2023 16:41:18

I have one of the new King Charles III postage stamps. What I know about 3D printing is written on the back of it.... But, James Clough of YouTube "Clough42" fame produced a video of him using a water soluble filament as a support material In this video. It strikes me that, if you used it as the main construction filament instead to produce your buck for a mould, it would be merely a matter of washing it out of the mould afterwards. Or would that be too simple? Sorry, it doesn't help with the resin side of this thread.

John

It appears that you are not using the site search facility on the Home page ( half way down ). I came up with these two to be getting on with:

Myford ML10 change wheel question

and

Change wheels for Myford ML10

I'm neither a Myford owner nor user, so these may not be of any assistance, but might get you started in your quest.

John

No comment from himself, yet, so I'll post a picture of the one I made to Graham Meek's design, originally published in, I think, Engineering in Miniature. I don't recall where I got the plans from unfortunately.

In my experience, it works extremely well and the added advantages over other designs are the much wider throat to accommodate large diameter workpieces and the provision of flats on the adjusting nut which allows a high degree of pressure to bear on the knurls during operation using a spanner. Although mostly used on brass, I have also used it on BMS to equally good effect.

John

Edit: grammar!

Edited By John Hinkley on 11/03/2023 10:28:53

Not surprisingly, I agree wholeheartedly with Jason! I bought a similar holder with 6mm inserts specifically for use with my experimental taper turning/copying attachment as I was having difficulty with "normal" tools.

You can see it in use and it produces reasonable results in aluminium as in this video, from about 11.30 mins on.

I also use it very occasionally when I need to produce a radius for stress relief at a transitional joint, for example, though that is rare for me.

John

I stand corrected. Perhaps I should've gone to Specsavers.

John

Do you have a copy of LibreOffice on your computer? If so,then this may be useful:

Flowchart drawing with LibreOffice

Or at least kick you off in the right direction. Not tried it myself. Last time I drew a flowchart, it was all done by hand for a Computer Studies "O" level examwhen I was 35, 1982!

John

P.S. Got a grade A!

I confess to being a little confused. You are after a manual for a Myford VM-F milling machine which, according to lathes.co.uk is remarkably similar, if not identical to a Warco VMC, then you say it was sold as a Warco A2F. Looking for pictures of the latter brings up any number of references but all have the appearance of a Bridgeport clone, both in style and weightiness. If a manual for the Warco VMC will fulfil your requirements, I have such pdf along with the parts manual. PM me with your email address if either or both would be helpful

John

Trevor,

Thanks for taking the time to give us feedback. Glad to hear you got what you wanted in the end.

Best of luck with the build. Maybe let us have a few photos of progress in a new thread - à la "McDonald Model Tractor" by Four Stroke Fred?

John

Donald,

Sorry, I got the page reference wrong. It should read page 62, figure 3.10

John

Donald,

I know the square root of diddly squat about Petter engines but have a look at page 26 of the manual here:

Petter manual

It purports to cover AV series engines. The picture show an exploded view of the injector.

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 28/02/2023 20:43:50

Ivan,

If it fits together as I assume it does from your photo, I think I'd be inclined to fashion a new holder from fresh material that was easier to work. I can't see, from limited experience using my small shaper that it needs to be hardened to the degree that yours appears to be, unless its intended use is towards the industrial end of the work envelope.

John

Me, again. After a brief, unsuccessful, search for B & S on lathes.co.uk, I tried again with South Bend. Your lathe bears more than a passing resemblance to the South Bend 8-inch Junior lathe. Main difference that I can see are the maker's name on the bed and mounting feet (can't see your lathe's). This might suggest it could be a clone made in Europe?

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 22/02/2023 10:31:44

I think MichaelG has hit the nail on the head (again) with his suggestion. Jarno taper is expressed as a ratio of 1:20, which equals 0.05. Plotting your reported measurements into CAD, gives an included angle of 2,864°. Tan of that angle is 0.050027, which is close enough in my view. Since the Jarno taper was introduced by Brown and Sharpe - according to Wikipedia - I would start my search on lathes.co.uk with that manufacturer.

Good luck,

John

John,

I have responded to your PM and prepared a document for you. PM again and include your email address and I'll send it off.

John

I apologise for posting incorrect information regarding the email you received, Jake. It was based on my experience with how the system appeared to me to work. I need to wind my neck in!

John