Member postings for JohnF

Look at FENSA site and google British standards for windows but I agree everything has to bend or give or it will break !

John

Mark, they may well be 2BA but look at your PM's

John

A bit more possibly unless info ??

**LINK**

Hi Gwilym, Looking at the machine on www.lathes.co.uk and this photo of the Downham **LINK** it does not look too difficult to fabricate the lever from solid or welded parts. The Elliot looks slightly different but very similar and the photo is not as good.

Anyway good luck with your search for one from a breaker but I don't think its a high chance.

John

An excellent and simple solution Gray !

Neil -- I agree with the thread Mic and your comments, I have one purchased from Shars tools in the USA several years ago and its invaluable for some of the work I do. Much less expensive than you can purchase here.

My original problem came when I had to cut accurate metric threads on my imperial lathes, they have to be produced to a correct standard and wires are difficult/time consuming to use [unless you have the Horstman clip on type sets] so purchased an thread imperial mic. with 60deg anvils then made a table for conversion of metric thread measurements to imperial and it works well.

Anyone interested in the Shars mics here is a link **LINK** After some negotiations with them regarding freight, and they were very helpful sending the unit by insured post rather than a courier saving ££££'s

John

Not noticed an issue with the logon dropping out, only very occasionally or when i change devices or if I switch off my MacBook rather than go to sleep mode.

However today I did notice that the "return " button now works as it should ! press return and you go to the new paragraph rather than to the first letter you had typed in so "something"has changed !

John

Chris, try this link it has a manual of the QC gearbox

**LINK**

If it does not work message me and i will copy mine for you

John

Hi Mark, in answer to your questions Q1 the collar will not alter the backlash between the feed screw and the nut it is there to adjust the the "play" on the end plate and act as a thrust bearing when retracting the cross slide, 0.002" is acceptable and you cannot remove all the play. So No it will not affect the positioning of the tool for the cut applied.

Q2 answer is No! the cross slide is pushed towards the work by the feed nut and the adjusting collar will not be in contact with the end plate during a cut.

It seems from what you say you were getting a poor finish on the shaft you were turning, assuming you were applying a cut correctly i.e. always back off the cross slide then feed in to the point required -- do this each time you are making an adjustment for your next cut when finishing. If you just say feed in another 2 thou on the dial from the existing setting you will not achieve consistent results -- thus back off and come up to the new position.

Also what tooling are you using HSS or replaceable tip tools ? The finish can be affected by many things, material type, the cutting tool, speed, lubricant etc etc. ---- a photo of the work may help

Cheers John

Mike, the W on the toolholder's indicates they are original Myford Dickson manufacture, some of the clones fit fairly well but none are as good as the originals. The best you will get are Bison form Rotagrip the S00 size is the correct one but they are pricy ! Most of the regular suppliers offer clones and at much lower prices.

Regards John
 

PS there was a firm called A & R Precision making them in the UK excellent quality but they disappeared-- however I would recommend you go to the forum search and just put in Dickson lots of info comes up

Edited By JohnF on 18/02/2019 22:57:03

Try these people **LINK** worth an email !

John

Hi Phil, i guess its a phone photo? if so it probably has EXIF data embedded here is a link explaining it **LINK**

You can usually use any photo software and open the photo then alter it by pretty much anything, rotate, crop etc then save and the EXIF disappears so it seems to me.

John

Got a bit waylaid helping a pal so my post is a bit late !

Edited By JohnF on 28/01/2019 22:08:24

Lots of thread information here plus a great deal more at Maryland Metrics **LINK**

Plus one for Andrews last comment because it’s always best to try and achieve a high standard, I often use a thread mic for some work where it’s critical and I don’t have a callipers gauge. Most threads I cut I do truncate and I use both hand ground tools and full form tipped tools.

Having said that for many things in the home workshop as long as it fits together and does what you need then it serves its purpose!

John

Wonder if these links are of any use ? one is resetting a dial calliper dial to zero the other is a discussion on this forum from which the first link may've come !

John

**LINK**


**LINK**

Found another one as well   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrvB_eF6CLU a bit noisy and not the best video but there is some info there

Edited By JohnF on 23/01/2019 17:38:34

For drilling I would suggest a tile drill, usually a spade type drill made from carbide, 3mm may be a problem? try at a tile shop. As already suggested a diamond tile saw will be best to cut the slate, I have cut tiles using an angle grinder but a tile saw is much better - maybe a pal has one ? For the flats a carbide end mill should do the trick.

John

Welcome Chris, have a look at the back issues of Mew and Neils articles on using a lathe & mill it will give you some ideas of what you need but rather than go out and buy a heap of stuff you may, may not need I would buy the basics and acquire other things as you go along - depends on what you end up doing.
Also my advice is buy on quality and not price, in some cases you will pay double or more but in the end you will not regret it.
Worth adding your location to your profile as well so member can see where you are

John

Good morning Garry, I am not familiar with traction engines but from your description of the component a T slot cutter is the way to go. Just make sure the cutter , shank relationship is enough to to cut the depth you need, most will be for sure.

John

Welcome Ceteri, there are several ME clubs societies close by but most are railway orientated, we are only 30 miles apart so if want to link up PM me.

Cheers John

Mike open the side cover for the belt change, operation the clutch lever and you will see the centre part move in and out, when disengaged there is a small gap you can see -- a couple of drops of oil into the gap and give it a few moments to work its way down -- job done.

John
edit my machine is c1977

Edited By JohnF on 10/01/2019 13:38:11

Ha! Reminds me of my first foray into gear cutting as an apprentice my then mentor Ernie who was showing me how set everything up and make a trial cut came to the last cut and said “this where you ask do they want one big one or two little ones”

Flippancy aside from what David says Jason is on the right track something is moving most probably the blank has insufficient clamping force on its mandrel? As Michael suggests a photo of your set up would probably help a lot.

John

Edited By JohnF on 10/01/2019 11:30:37

Philip I think they may be Boxford, have a look on www.lathes.co.uk for Boxford lathe accessories and look at the collets, they are a small version of 5C collets -- can't recall the number ??? I had a set some time back from a machine that was scrapped where I worked, always intended to "do something" with them but flogged them on the well known site - had them maybe 50 years in the store !

John