Member postings for Bizibilder

Googling Shoemakers leather rolling machine threw up quite a few hits.

Just to add - they are excellent vices and the price is pretty much unbeatable for the quality. (usual disclaimer).  For the hobbymat table the 2" may be the better choice.

Edited By Bizibilder on 27/11/2021 10:17:51

The MSC ones have a deep groove down both sides for clamping. The catalogue picture is incorrect in showing just a row of holes (At least on the ones I bought about a month ago with the same code number)

Any model shop should have them or try any online model shop. Wonderland models has packs of 10 blades for 99p (usual disclaimer). do check though as some shops charge considerably more!!

I seem to recall that Keith Wilson wrote up using a cycle speedometer for a loco in ME some years ago (Maybe sometime in the 80's or 90's??). He gave all the details and how to calibrate the thing.

Edited By Bizibilder on 03/11/2021 09:48:42

If you can get hold of a copy of John Wildings "Small Tower clock movement" it gives a full description of the construction of a clock similar to your own ideas. It is £30 from here: Clock Book - Well worth the money (It's on my own list of "projects to do"!)

I doubt if you could straighten your sheets without leaving some marks. If you are lucky you may be able to use the undamaged areas between the folds? Have you tried UK suppliers? Both M-Machine and Mallard Metals (to name just two and with the usual disclaimer) list 0.5mm (actually 26swg) sheet in their catalogues at about £8 for a square foot. They are likely to pack it properly and you should receive it flat.

Correx Gauge - they still make 'em!!: Here

Edited By Bizibilder on 04/10/2021 12:07:14

You can buy blanks that are much shorter than 20cm! Then you will not need to cut them. Try this video about tool grinding - It is excellent and takes you through the process slowly with a full explanation of "how and why". Here

Have a look on Youtube - there are several videos. Have a look at a few of them and you should find a method that suits you and your available tools.

Edited By Bizibilder on 19/09/2021 10:03:19

I believe it is so you can hold the vice in another vice and still be able to operate the moving jaw. Sometimes a very useful trick! Or, as you suggest, still be able to use the vice on its side or pushed up against something like an angle plate or 123 block.

Edited By Bizibilder on 06/09/2021 12:54:51

The top one is probably a hair singer (The barber deliberately setting your hair alight in order to get rid of any stray hairs - No 'elf and safety in those days!!). I can just about remember as a child my barber offering to singe hair for an extra 1d or 3d I can't remember exactly - a haircut for a small boy being about 1/6d (7p in that new fangled money).

No idea about the second item.

Wildings tower clock book contains a description of electric winding for the clock. Not sure how easy it is to find a copy of the book these days?

Cogged belts of the section you require can be found HERE (usual disclaimer).

Many years ago I had an ML10 and wanted to fit a link belt to the headstock. I phoned Myford first and asked about doing it and what belt they would recommend (this was long before the internet existed!!) and thy said they did not recommend linked belts for the ML10, I asked why and they said that the rivet heads would catch on the headstock casting when changing speeds and would, over time, possibly damage the paintwork!

Anyway I went ahead and bought a belt - one with rivets (as they were the only type available in those days) and It was quite easy to change speeds without catching the rivets on the headstock and the belt worked perfectly when running - there is plenty of clearance.

I would say to go ahead and buy the linked belt rather than disturb the settings of the headstock bearings.

From the motor to countershaft you may find that a "cogged" v-belt will be more supple around the pulleys and give a smoother drive.

Highlight the entire sheet and then use custom sort to sort on the column you require - the whole sheet will be sorted.

Chronos sell a 100mm 3 jaw that will screw directly onto your lathe: HERE (usual disclaimer of course). This would save machining a backplate yourself which, as a newcomer, may be putting you off.

Sounds like a forced password change (possibly due to the old password having been in use for a long time?) - therefore your "old" password cannot be used as the "new" one needs to be different.

You can often get spares for the Hobbymat on that well known auction site - BUT - beware that prices can be higher than you may wish to pay.

There is no need for the switches to be of the rotary type - toggle switches would work just as well as long as you ensure that you can't accidentally toggle them when you don't mean to! some sort of simple cover should do the necessary.

Yes Ebay are changing the way you have to manage the funds when you sell goods - It is not a scam - check your Ebay messages to find out the details. Whether you are prepared to give Ebay access to your bank account is an entirely personal choice !

Apparently Paypal is still good for buying from Ebay.