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Member postings for Michael Malleson

Here is a list of all the postings Michael Malleson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Advertising banners
16/11/2012 20:24:05

We emailed Ben Rayment about this problem nearly a month ago and haven't had even the courtesy of a reply, let alone an explanation

Mike.

Thread: How Britain Worked
31/10/2012 08:48:20

You either like Guy or you don't. For me he's straight as a die and very entertaining and I'm constantly reminded of seeing him hop off his bike at the end of a race at the T.T.and declaring that he was in desperate need of a cup of tea because his throat felt " like a camel's arse" !!! Fred Dibnah by contrast was a self centred old soak whose greatest skill was listening to the sound of his own voice; so lets not compare them at all.

Mike

Thread: Over engineered?
06/03/2012 08:30:28

I seem to remember that Izal and a comb made quite good music. Mike.

Thread: The Sandown Park Model Engineer Exhibtion 2011
14/01/2012 10:55:29
Hi David. Please NO more cheap jack stalls selling tacky rubbish, it is after all a MODEL ENGINEERING EXHIBITION,and why were so many of our leading suppliers not in attendance ? For many of us it's the one chance in the year to meet the person on the end of the 'phone. Why do they stay away ? Mike.
Thread: Any "Beginners" building 5" gauge Boxhill?
07/10/2011 09:07:08
Go to www.modelengineeringwebsite.co.uk and click on Mentors.
 
Mike.
Thread: 3 phase
06/09/2011 08:05:45
For running 3ph machines at home having 3ph installed will cost you a fortune. A good rotary convertor is your best cost/benefit option as you can switch on motors in succession up to the convertor rating , and off, at will without afecting the performance of motors already running. Miles cheaper than mains and you have tha convertor tosell when you no longer need it ! Mike.
Thread: Graham Butcher's Warco Mill
23/08/2011 09:25:28
Hi David. My milling machine is the same as yours. How about a short article in ME magazine on how you did your motorised Y-axis. Can you still use it manually ?
Mike.
Thread: Amateurs
25/03/2011 08:22:57
Dear Donald. I never thought to meet a person who sits on the right hand of God. My life is now complete. Mike
Thread: Boxhill cylinder drain cocks
06/07/2010 11:55:58
I'm glad someone else finds Martin Evans vague. He was far to prone to saying "in the usual way". My advice is to use your own judgement and follow what seems to be the sensible solution. If you don't want the trouble of making your own, try steam fittings.co.uk. They are anmazingly inexpensive for such fiddly bits. Mike.
Thread: Driver / passenger truck dimensions
14/05/2010 09:54:23
Thankyou  JA Harvey-Smith and AndyP. As you can see I've hardly been overwhelmed with replies, which probably indicates that the variety of tracks makes the designing of a "use on any track" 5"g.  truck difficult. Perhaps Model Engineer Magazine could initiate a survey of the club tracks that would lead to a design that, with built in means of adjustment , would be able to run on the majority of raised tracks. This may not be easily achieved to include those tracks that have  7 1/4" gauge due to offsets etc. How about it \David ?  Mike.
Thread: "Foundation" book has got me worried
04/05/2010 09:22:36
The BIGGEST  problem is when there is a rapid temperature rise, say from a frosty morning to a warm coffee time. That is when the temperature of cold metal lags behind air temperature and all the humidity condenses on your beautiful shiny tools and slideways.
ANSWERS :-
 
  1  Minimise temperature fluctuations with the best insulation you can afford, (4" loft insulation equivalent minimum ) including the floor (more on this in a minute, see 4 ).
 
  2. Install a dehumidifier and leave on permanently. Choose one with a dial setting knob which will enable you to vary the degree of "dryness" easily. Once the workshop is thoroughly dry it will use very litte power, even in a wet spell mine produces less than 5l. in a month. Make sure it is of a capacity to suit your workshop volume
.
   3. If you can afford to keep your workshop above ambient temperature , ( NOT gas or oil heaters, they emit the dreaded moisture ), this is better than putting on heat in a cold space as you would then get the undesirable rapid rise. The thicker your insulation, the cheaper it is to keep warm.
 
   4 A wooden floor lagged beneath is warm on the feet, and kind to tools and just-machined bits that you may drop.
 
   5 Moisture barriers are a must all round before anything else is applied.
 
 
      Hope this is of some help,  Mike.
Thread: Driver / passenger truck dimensions
04/05/2010 08:53:42
I want to build a truck for 5"g raised track. Is there a standard set of dimensions for the width of chassis, depth of footboards from the seat top, angle of the side boards, etc., etc., that I can access from a club or society or individual by post or over the net, and that would be useable on any club track. I have a set of up to date braked bogies to incorporate.  Thanks.
Thread: General club questions
11/12/2009 10:24:03
Hi Paul  . I belong to Plymouth Miniature Steam. We are principally locos but a number of members are traction engine  enthusiasts. Contact Bernard Webb on 01752  201771. Have a look at www.plymouthminiaturesteam.org.uk.  Also you can contact John Briggs  about membeship on [email protected].
Regards. Mike Malleson.
Thread: Shed insulation
25/10/2009 18:14:26
Robbo. Yes you are a pedant, unless you can tell me where to buy 4" roofing felt !!   Mike.
Thread: Case Hardening
23/10/2009 10:39:54
Hi Peter B. Any organic carbon-rich material will do so long as you areconfident it is free of things like sulphur (see Mike Cox above) . The old blacksmiths used to use things like hoof-parings, chicken s--t, and shredded leather. Best done outside !! Best of luck, Mike.
Thread: Shed insulation
23/10/2009 10:29:51
Hi Bill. I did my shed in the following way.
 1 Line the whole of the inside with breathable roofing felt using a staple gun.
 2 Line the walls an doors with 4" roofing felt between the studding using string stapled across ladder-wise to stop it flopping down.
 3 Then line the walls  all over with 12mm sterling/strand board (OSB) or chipboard. This enables you to put in a nail or screw ANYWHERE, and gives extra insulation.
 4 Fix up sheets of 50mm Kingspan foam insulation board into the roof spaces, and onto the doors, screwing through into the purlins with long screws and 3-4" square "washers"of boarding from your walling offcuts, to stop the screw heads pulling through.
 5 Install a dehumidifier, switch it on and leave it on PERMANENTLY. At first you will have to empty it frequently but as the timber dries out this will become less frequent. I only have to do it twice a week in the wettest weather. Be sure to buy one that is manually adjustable and switches on and off automatically. Once "settled in" it will use very little power.
 5 Install whatever heating you can afford, but ensure that the temperature inside is ALWAYS HIGHER than outside.   
 
    Apart from being warm whilst in the workshop, the "warmer in than out" factor eliminates THE GREAT ENEMY namely,---- CONDENSATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I have had unprotected bright-machined surfaces around for more than 3 years without ANY rust whatsoever, the investment has paid off many times over in saved effort and "rust-tears" !!
 6 Thicker insulation is even better and saves on heating.
 
   Good luck, Mike
Thread: Gaskets
08/06/2009 17:41:04
 Thanks for the latest replies, I was hoping that the latest ME would produce more info. Are there any "Boxhill" or "Metro" builders out  there who have overcome this problem? Would love to here from you. Mike
Thread: workshop data chart
08/06/2009 17:36:35
  
Hi.Go to,   www.monument-tools.com   and look for DTC Engi eer's Chart. They are cheap. 4.5" diam and packed with info. Mike
Thread: Nuts and bolts
22/05/2009 08:14:17
Try www.ekp.supplies.btinternet.co.uk. Mike Malleson
Thread: Gaskets
22/05/2009 08:11:02
Hi Ian & Chris. Clearly a good substantial paper has been a common material for this puroose. The 2 Stuart  engines I have (1960's vintage) are fitted with paper gaskets so it is obviously suitable for high pressure steam. Many thanks, Mike.
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