By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Circlip

Here is a list of all the postings Circlip has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Cutting glass tube to length
16/04/2010 16:52:37
And you should really subject the ends to a dose of a blowlamp to fuse the rough edges. Only one or two of us had Chemistry lessons where we did this as a matter of course.
 
  Regards  Ian. 
Thread: DTI Dovetails?
16/04/2010 12:31:27
A little "Attatchment" for you to make and worth the effort
 
 
  Use HE30 or 6082 for the material
 
  Regards  Ian
 
  THIS link works Chris.
 
  Oh yes, if you machine it correctly, you don't need the 1.3" long slot in the bottom left hand view.

Edited By Circlip on 16/04/2010 12:33:21

Thread: Website Articles - Simplex
16/04/2010 11:52:01
And if you want to see one built under "Difficult" conditions, go to this site :-
 
 
 If you leave a reply, tell the ascerbic tart "Circlip" sent you.
 
  Given the easy availability of bits over here, SOME do whinge.
 
   Regards  Ian.
 
  Hiya Baggo.

Edited By Circlip on 16/04/2010 11:52:44

Thread: Rivers 2.49cc and DC 1cc engines
16/04/2010 11:44:03
I will illucidate (Explain) my reaction to "Gentle heat"
 
  I can apply gentle heat with a blowlamp and without trying to demean the O/P's capabilities, I  have also seen trained monk-- er  Mechanics fitting taper outer races with a ball pien whilst they were standing beside a bench press.
 
  I can do less damage to a piston when de-coking with a sharp object than many can with the industry "Sharpened stick of Lead" or plumbers stick solder. (Washing with Carbon Tet is MUCH quicker).
 
  "Heat to cherry red" Oh yea, WHICH part of the season???
 
   Regards  Ian
Thread: 1040 Steel
16/04/2010 11:34:08
Was going to ask if this is based on the Steve Bedair design? If so, if you look on the edge of the outside dia. of the turntable block, can't you IMAGINE a hole drilled across the dia. (Say 15mmDia.)?? A couple of vertical saw cuts gets rid of MOST of the "Scrap" so you just have to clean up the slot.
 
  Not unique but so many newer members will try to CLEAVE big lumps of scrap metal out with a milling cutter.
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: 2 questions - threading silver steel; tightening bar in the chuck
15/04/2010 13:40:57
Can't understand an " ordinary " bolt being floppy? Was going to suggest you use an 8.8 HTS bolt or a long Cap(Allen)screw as the donor to make a suitable drawbolt/stud.
 
  If you do go down the Silver Steel route, trim the end as stated, turn the dia. down to 9.9 and chamfer the end as a start, cut/die the thread, degrease put in oven at gas mark whatever (Untill dark blue/purple) remove and quench in oil.
 
  Jobsaguden.
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: Rivers 2.49cc and DC 1cc engines
15/04/2010 13:30:14
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, don't heat them, soak in parrafin or diesel or any soft solvent, it's the Castor thats solidified, Try the engine site I put up in the thread on the vintage engine.
 
  Regards  Ian.
 
  Found it for you
 

Edited By Circlip on 15/04/2010 13:33:27

Thread: Boiler materials
15/04/2010 13:22:07
" There's no such thing as can't, but there may well be a different way."
Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
15/04/2010 12:11:31
Many years ago (Oh, L, drag up yer zimmers), One of my design components was molded in Nylon. Part of the brief for the finished item was that it should be flexible and collecting them "Out of the mold" prooved that the darned things exhibited the flexibility of cream crackers.
 
  "Ah" said the tecky rep, "Thats cos they're fresh out of the mold and haven't had time to absorb any water, in 24 Hrs they'll feel different again, you could boil them in water to speed up the process"
 
  Since we wanted another component to slide inside a slot molded into it, some bright spark () suggested "What about boiling them in oil??" 
 
  As it was handy, and also due to be changed, they got a bubbling in the chip pan and despite the stink, EVEN after washing and drying them, the flexibility AND the lubricicity was obvious.
 
  I wouldn't advocate using Flora or Vigin Olive Oil, but a standard Nylon 6 suitably "Cooked" in an appropriate lubricant may get some out of a tight squeeze (Pun intended).
 
  Keep having to post this for re-oiling "Oilites"
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: Boiler materials
14/04/2010 10:06:58
If scale fidelity is so important Jonathan then cleading with Pb shim can cover the multitude of sins hidden by making a safe boiler.
 
  Come on mgj, nobody ever told you "You can't scale nature" ? In steam terms you've obviously disproved the theory, so JasonBs tube plate should be remade to hold FAR more tubes of a more scale diameter.?
 
  Regards  Ian
Thread: Oversize Cylinder
12/04/2010 12:14:38
You have highlighted one of the traps that most who "Mod" a design fall into Richard. Yours was one of neccessity due to an error of machining, but the same thing applies to two other forum golden oldies, Merticating designs from imperial and the "Why are the drawings not corrected" whingers.
 
  Pity they don't engage brain before trying to melt the keyboard.
 
  You may be able to re-centralise the PCD between the edge of the bore and the flange O/D.
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: Roller bearing cages - full size
10/04/2010 16:38:00
Wouldn't take much to make a "Broach" and die to take the corners out.
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: Conversion
10/04/2010 16:26:39
OK Alan you say at this point in time your skil is "Fair". How are you with  Numbers. If you check back, the metrication issue has cropped up many times and found to be WANTING. (Look at the Stan Bray dual dimensioned engines) I did it for Borderer, but the simple conversions don't work so be aware what you are trying to achieve.
 
  Very basically Ramon has given you the best approach, (I did it exactly the same way) Photocopy/print all the drawings and sit without any distractions and go through the lot noting the bits that interact WITH EACH OTHER and the build up of "shuffled" dimensions.
 
  DC1 has given a simplistic veiw on a 3/8" dimn. BUT 3/8 = 9.525mm Fine, that's a hole, what fits in it?  A shaft? and what Dia. is that going to be?? 3/8" dia raw material, 10mm turned down to 9.525,?? But rounded, 3/8" = 9.6 or 9.5,?  Hmm B****r, see where I'm going??
 
 I had an advantage when doing mine,
 
   A. A lifetime in full size ingineering.
 
   B. Lots of it as a designer.
 
   So the interaction between the bits was fully understood. I'm NOT trying to put you off, you can do it, but just be aware.
 
  Oh yes, then there are the screw sizes --------
 
  Regards  Ian  

Edited By Circlip on 10/04/2010 16:27:21

Thread: M E Threaded Hex Bolts
09/04/2010 10:57:27
If GLR still supply Hex rod, you COULD roll your own.
 
  Regards  Ian
Thread: Rear Toolpost Parting Off on C3 Mini Lathe?
02/04/2010 12:49:36
should the tool be above or below the centre line
 
  In ALL cases, ON the c/l
 
  Regards  Ian
Thread: Newest EU legislation
02/04/2010 12:42:38
Things are getting tench with all this carping on.
Thread: Anodising
29/03/2010 12:27:53
No one tried inkjet inks yet?? Should be able to mix a vast range of colours (colors).
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: Boring for a Beginner
27/03/2010 18:24:40
Nooooooooo, you've GOT to have a QCTP (prefferably fitted with a DRO) 
 
  Will another manufacturers comparitor work Chris??
 
   Regards  Ian
Thread: PTFE gaskets
27/03/2010 18:18:07
Matt side inside, polished side outside. Easier to keep clean.
 
  Regards  Ian.
Thread: Boring for a Beginner
27/03/2010 12:06:32
 For height setting, trapped rule always seems to work too.
 
  Regards  Ian.
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate