Member postings for Circlip

Most I've had to do Nick was 36 and 28 scans for drawings of a model Vulcan and yes a labour of hate. It's the masochistic streak in me. regularly 8 scans per side for some plans and 4 for some others and then the luxury (very infrequent) of a single. Wish I''d had AutoCad and Photoshop 50 years ago. Surprising how much muck is on old drawings and 'Over run' on line endings and the ability to zoom and erase without having to brush down a drawing.

Regards Ian

Year and date always works for me.

Regards Ian.

To answer JA's point regarding Ammonia, the drawings don't come into or any where near liquid Ammonia. UV Light passes through the drawing which is placed on top of a sensitised paper sheet, passed through a light chamber via rollers. The exposed paper is then fed through an Ammonia vapour chamber which 'Develops' the coating, the master being separated from the print before that operation. Yes Henry, we used the 'Dusters' for dusting off Pounce.

Regards Ian.

Above system called 'Diazo' printing.

Waste Ammonia from this system ideal for soaking Balsa wood for bending.

Edited By Circlip on 19/04/2023 10:21:09

Yes Nigel, it was The BAYKO building set. You forgot the square perforated corner plates which like the strips rusted thanks to the minimum tin plating. Base plates on mine were green and were joined together with heavy duty link plates and part of the 'Kit' was a pair of jewellers pliers to get the wires back out of the bases on 'striipdown.

Regards Ian.

Many of the 'No such thing as a stupid question' questions would be answered by a quick perusal of the old school texts.

Regards Ian.

As a wrinkly ex Draughty, these used to be called 'UNO' stencil pens when Pounce and Indian ink were kings.

Regards Ian.

Sorry, for the wokeries 'Sub continent ink'

Edited By Circlip on 15/03/2023 09:48:35

Harrogate Model Railway Exhibition | Watch (msn.com)

Hopefully this works.

Regards Ian

Sadly no M/E content but was advertised as Muddle Railway exhibition.

Edited By Circlip on 11/03/2023 11:19:20

Jason, DOH! that's another half brain cell that died without me realising. 1/8" OR 0.125 or 3.175mm

Regards Ian

Yes, but tension on mine doesn't permit me to play 'Air on an A string'

Regards Ian.

Yes Norm, eight pages and would be a darned sight less if we could refer to a post # rather than cut and paste vast lines of text.

Sorry Jason, my ref to 1/8"- 0.312 Should have been 1/8" OR 0.312 (0.3125 if working for NASA which many think they are).

Unfortunately the designs that the O/P seems to favour are 'Old school'. Yes, there are metric designed models but are precisely that and not 'Conversions'. Years ago, I had a hard time trying to convince an American colleague that an unimportant dimension of 25mm didn't mean he had to cleave 0.4mm OR 16 thou from a 1" bar of metal.

Regards Ian.

De-lux end clips have a spring clip attached, Keeps them retained to saw frame spindles.

Regards (another) Ian.

ALL drawings can be "Metricated" but it's too expensive to change every design, just in case the one YOU want is available. As stated in post # - (OH, we STILL have the inability to refer to post numbers, despite THAT subject re occurring with the same monotonous regularity) the inability of some to determine which dimensions NEED to be direct conversions to metric, don't try to throw it over to today's "Universal" draughtsmen who prepare offerings via a graphics programme for magazine publication.. Even back in Percival Marshall's day when the Draughties KNEW what steam engineering was all about, could get sizes wrong.

Simple question for the CAD brigade who think pressing the 'Convert' button on a loaded Imperial drawing is the easy answer, 1/8" - 0.312" converts to 7.9248mm and before you jump in and state "That's 8mm," NOT if it's tied to part of a chain dimension - Cylinder position etc. on a steam loco. Should we change to 88.9mm gauge?

Regards Ian.

Screw in for preference if the chopped end works, far less to screw in than out.

Regards Ian.

i feel your pain Mick. As a fellow Guzzi owner, many of the 'helpers' suggestions can easily fall by the wayside as they don't know how cr*p some of the alloy castings are. You should be able to screw the helicoil out with a tapered blade but then, you need to make an accurate jig to ensure true drilling of hole. A decent welder should be able to plug weld the hole and then redrill (Thus need for an accurate jig, with location from other holes) and tap for either original size or helicoil.

Fond out about the 'Quality' of Italian alloy when having to fit hellies in my Le Mans crankcase to bell housing bolts. Screwloc was originally used by factory to make up for casting defect(s).

Regards Ian.

Try a magnet, if it's slightly magnetic, it's alumininium bronze.

Regards Ian.

Getting increasingly fed up of the screen message telling me that unless I update from 7 to 10, edge updates won't work.

Regards Ian.

Wonder what the accuracy of the centre to centre distance of the cylinders on either side of the central journal is? The late Sir John used to do some fantastic weld rebuilds.

Regards Ian.

Lot to be said for a 50w (incandescent) lamp under the covers or one of the modern low wattage heater bars.

Regards Ian.

OR a Piano heater bar - 25w

Edited By Circlip on 17/02/2023 09:53:27

So there IS an exhibition in arrergate this year????????????????

Regards Ian.

Makes one wonder how models were made without having a degree in Metallurgy. Can you mark it with a file? OK for general work. Need some tough stuff? Car half shaft. Ability to correctly grind a lathe tool superceeded by the proliferation of carbides.

Oh how we have become NASA suppliers.

Regards Ian.