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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Brake Screw
03/01/2010 09:10:25
Here is the pic, if I were making it again I would go with a longer tap to get a more gradual taper but it did the job.
 
The brake rod is all one piece, the small amount of silver solder is where I soldered in two half rounds of steel to fill the tool run out groove as the original had no groove.
 
The nut was cut from bronze and the silversoldered into the fork.
 
Just had a look at the Alching book and as the thread is only 5/32 I think you will have to go straight in with a tap, Hughes gives a good description of how to make a suitable tap in his book.
 

Jason
03/01/2010 08:08:58
I've just made the 1/4" x 16 brake rod & nut for my 2" Fowler.
 
When you are set up for cutting the screw make another out of silver steel which can then be made into a tap.
 
I tried cutting the nut butas the bore is only 3/16 I found that when screwcutting it the tool flexed too much so I used the lathe to cut most of the thread and then resorted to the tap to chase the final finished thread. I'll take a pic of the tap later.
 
Jason
 
PS I'm assuming you are doing a 1 1/2" alchin and not a 3" in which case you could probably get away with an Acme thread which Tracy Tools sell down to about 3/8"
Thread: stuart s50 build
03/01/2010 07:56:02
"The casing core is 1/2" so I removed the flash with a 1/2 reamer"
 
Just read like you used the reamer to clean up the cast bore??
 
The way that stuarts cast their parts this method of alignment is just acceptable but I would not want to use it with a sand casting where the core may have moved or may not even be anywher near round
 
May have been easier to set the casting up with the angle plate stood on your marking out table so it could be checked with squares and height guage. Then plug the bore to make locating the ctr easier and just move the angle plate about on the faceplate until it clocks true
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 03/01/2010 08:02:11

02/01/2010 19:39:39
I'd be a little weary of using a reamer to remove casting flash, it soften chilled and you may get a bit of sand left on the cast surface which won't do your reamer much good. Maybe open up with a 1/2" drill then use a bit of 1/2" bar to set it up.
 
Jason
Thread: Trevithicks dredger engine
31/12/2009 07:48:38
The remaining parts are here but you need to be a subscriber to view, the alternative is to buy the back issues.
 
Jason
Thread: Myford Super7 Leadscrew Accuracy problem
29/12/2009 20:38:54
Mitutoyo give the accuracy of their digital mics and callipers
 
A Calliper will typically be 0.02mm over 200m, 0.03mm over 300mm, thats just over 0.001" per foot.
 
Their mics are 1 micron which is 0.001mm or  0.00005"
 
Mitutoyo site if you want a look.
 
Don't know what a cheap imported digital calliper would be though
 
Jason
29/12/2009 13:33:35
If you actually average out those figures then you get 126.16 so over an inch you are nearer 0.0015 out not the 0.005 in your first post.
 
Jason
Thread: Extrusion Press
28/12/2009 13:32:28
Paul, can I ask what sort of size this model will end up? All I can see in the spec for the full size is its weight and using the cube rule the model will weigh in at around 160kg assuming similar materials.
 
Looks like you will have a lot of milling to do if no one cumes up wiyh a source of UB, There are brass ones available but only upto 10mm.
 
Jason
Thread: Iron Castings
28/12/2009 08:30:11
Just saw this company in Ashford mentioned on Traction Talk Forum, may be of interest, they do one offs etc in both iron & non-ferrous
 
 
Jason
 
 

Edited By JasonB on 28/12/2009 08:31:29

Thread: Gear milling
27/12/2009 08:01:42
In answer to your first question about hobbing cutters then ARC Euro do them.
 
Another source for involute cutters is RDG
 
Jason
Thread: Cast Iron Supplier in Canada
19/12/2009 07:49:06
You may get a better response on one of the sites with more US/Canadian members
 
 
Jason
Thread: Which Lathe
17/12/2009 20:12:14
The metric/imperial option refers to what the dials on the handwheels are calibrated in, the lead screws will also be imperial say 8tpi or metric 3mm pitch.
 
The change gears supplied will allow you to cut both metric and imperial pitches ( though there may be a very slight error as some of the ratios are not exact but its a very small difference.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 17/12/2009 20:12:51

17/12/2009 16:50:20
The DB10V DOES NOT have a gearbox, thread cutting is done by changewheels.
 
Also the Variable speed lathes of this type lack slow speed torque as the diameter increases so you have to take lighter cuts. Not such an issue on smaller threads but you can stall them with large dia iron flywheels etc. And watch out for overheating if running at low speed for a long time as the motor fan does not move a lot of air at low rpm.
 
Apart from that they do the job, at least my Warco WM280VF does.
 
Jason
Thread: Lathe/Milling Machine combination
14/12/2009 17:59:33
Although its capable of swinging 16" this capacity is achieived by using a very tall head and tail stock in relation to the bed width. A good rigid lathe will have  a bed that is as wide as the centre height, the supoer B has a bed maybe half or less.
 
It also has quite a small mill table at 150x200, by the time you have got a part on there it does not leave much room for clamp bolts etc.
 
A lowest rpm of 160 will be way too fast for a lightweight machine if you want to take advantage of the full swing
 
Its also said that the head is not teh most rigid
 
Jason
Thread: Electrical Generator/motor
12/12/2009 20:06:10
Cotswold do a kit, I know some of their stuff has been covered in ME but not sure of the generator
 
Jason
Thread: Scale nuts and bolts
12/12/2009 16:16:28
 
 
Amazing what google can find in 10 secs
 
Jason
Thread: Motor brushes for a Unimat Millennium lathe
12/12/2009 13:16:00
Have a word with Pro Machine tools thay have got parts for my 25yr old Emco Ecomat in the past
 
They have a flashing add at the right of teh page emco/wabeco/golmatic
 
Jason
Thread: Finishing a casting
09/12/2009 17:01:41
Hemmingway's do JB weld but I got mine off e-bay from This seller
 
I just use several brushed coats or a red oxide type metal primer should be able to get something at the local DIY store by someone like International paints
 
Halfords or DIY store should have plastic padding or e-bay again
 
Acetone and reclaimed acetone brush cleaner can be had from from a fibreglass suppliers,  I usethis one, they also do the glass bubbles. Failing that nail varnish remover is similar just dont get the "acetone free" ones
 
Jason
08/12/2009 16:29:40
Plastic Padding body filler or "chemical metal" can be used. If the part is likely to be subject to heat then something like "JB Weld" is better.
 
If you want a supersmoothe finish then a small die grinder or dremel tool with a small flapwheel and or emery cloth will remove all the high spots. Then a thick primer, rub down, prime then rubdown etc until you have the surface you require.
 
If My Warco is anything to go by the makers coat the whole casting with a layer of epoxy filler and then sand it back.
 
Jason
Thread: Sandown Model Engineer Exhibition 2009
07/12/2009 19:01:58
I hope to be there Friday
 
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