Member postings for Mike Hurley

Nice to have you on board Mark. Any plans at this stage of what you might be looking at doing now you're back in business?

regards Mike

You'll need to change the motor to a 3-phase one matched to an inverter. People like Newton Tesla do suitable packages (like the one I fitted to my BV20) although some mechanical modification was needed to the motor mounting. It works really well. Don't know how 'economical' it is these days though.

I've done plenty of screw cutting on mine, with fair results overall. There's no auto knock off on the feed or screw cutting indicator, so you just leave the lead screw permanently engaged, stop and reverse on each pass (having taken the cut off of course), You just get used to it.

regards Mike

Edited By Mike Hurley on 13/07/2023 17:37:36

My understanding is (may be wrong of course ! ) That toilet seats & handles don't normally provide a good surface for germs to remain active for long due to their (normally ) high sheen.

I wonder if the same can be said of touchscreens considering how many staff in shops & cafes etc use their phones regularly (including when ON the toilet) and I doubt if they wash their hands in-between texting and serving?

A point to ponder I think

Enjoy your next café bacon sarnie.

I've had the single speed version of this (i.e. not the pro version) for some time now, and I can comment that they are very well engineered and a pleasure to use.

Mike

I had one pretty much the same a while back which was used primarily for woodworking, and was dead handy. A Vernier wasn't much use though, It could be ok for engineering but doubt if it would offer any real advantages over traditional kit.

Mike

As it's a replica, accuracy is not that critical. Any boring bar is going to be flimsy at the hole lengths indicated. There are plenty of extra long series drills available but if you only have your lathe I can't see you doing it in one go. As already suggested though, may be possible drilling in halfway from either end. Again, as it's a replica, if they don't accurately meet in the middle it won't be the end of the world.

Mike

No matter how you end up doing it, remember it needs to be an reasonably accurate 45% (or as near as practical).

If not, when you use it for drilling via the guide bush your holes may not be as centralised as you thought they may be! A 90deg cutter could be reasonably sourced if you shop around, and you will probably find it useful in the future. However, if you have some decent angle setting device then setting it at 45 in a vice etc and using and ordinary cutter will work fine

good luck, regards Mike

Been nearly a fortnight since I started this thread. Have just been away for week (wasn't I super lucky with the weather! ) but on return was still greeted by the odour of a badly decayed dead sheep near my front door - as someone else rightly commented - it's called Dulux ONCE because that's how often you ever use it.

Mike

Unfortunately, that is probably true.

If stuff is reusable, then it defeats the recycling ethos if it goes into landfill, but I suppose it's a bit Catch-22 for the council.

If you don't know then it's not a silly question!

Like Andrew J I never had much success with flycutters, and now always tend to use indexable carbide end mills. I'm sure many folk get on fine with them, just personal experience.

Regards Mike

Now the warmer weather is here, many will be tempted to start DIY ,as I did yesterday painting some exterior woodwork. Having had less success in the past with environmentally friendly water based stuff, brought some traditional solvent based instead - Dulux ONCE.

Fine, covered really well, no complaints - apart from the smell! It was horrendous, not the old 'white spirit ' odour but something quite different and nasty. Grateful I didn't use it indoors. My work clothes reek of it and can't get the smell out of my nose. So, beware where you use this stuff

I always use my Stoplock Pro, which has regularly been voted best of the type in various surveys.

Yes, somebody with a battery angle grinder could cut into it (or the steering wheel) after time, but I work on the basis that the majority of thefts are opportunistic, so why bother if they can move to the car next to mine and steal that easily instead.

If a toe rag really wants your car specifically, they will nick it regardless of keys, locks, electronic wizardy or immobilisers etc etc.

Not answering the question specifically - but -

Yes the LCD display is difficult to read, however I found that using one of those small head torches helps a great deal. When you look at the display with it on it gives much higher contrast and is easy to see. Also helps to illuminate the work as well. Perhaps worth trying before modifying your kit?

Fascinating concept Jez! The wiki article and superb animation really clarify it's operation.

As it says though, a lot of moving parts that would require frequent lubrication and maintenance

I never have a problem with the cable, it always seems to be the mains plug that has magically expanded to 2x it's original size

Yes it is, but remember these are specialist products widely used in industry for a miriad of different tasks. For the very general use you seem to be looking for just choose a basic thread lock. See any supplier website* for simple suggestions.

Also note there are numerous generic versions which are often cheaper and do the job. Don't get bogged down with data specs or you'll get thoroughly confused.

*e.g. search for 'adhesives' on the ARC Eurotrade website

Edited By Mike Hurley on 08/05/2023 11:18:02

Are you a dedicated fine model builder or a fiddler / just have a go at it type of chap?

There are some who thoroughly enjoy building models to exceptional standards ( and I am in awe of them ) and those who perhaps know there limitations but just enjoy tinkering about. I must admit to being in the latter category.

I recently began building my first clock, to tha end I spent many hours re-purposing a dividing head I inherited (but didn't fit my Mill), making a number of specialist tools and cutters etc all work that was challenging at times but very interesting.

Eventually I got to the point of cutting my first gear (80 tooth) with all this, started very well and cut the first few teeth precisely. I then realised I had to repeat this action another 78 times and for whatever reason the interest and enthusiasm just dissapeared. It's still all sat there and every time I go in the workshop I seem to find ' something else ' to do. The point I am trying to make here in relation to the original question is ' Have you sat back and tried to accuratly identify what you REALLY enjoy doing in the workshop ? Or perhaps its even time to be realistic and admit that nothing does anymore and maybe you would be better doing something else. Just because you have a workshop doesn't mean you are obliged to use it anymore if it is of no benefit?

I know I'm certainly at that stage, and seriously considering if things have run their course. I have had many years of pleasure from the hobby, and learned a massive amount; but never built any top quality exhibition standard models, but I've managed to fix numerous things for myself and many others, built a few so-so models, many tools / accessories for lathe & mill etc but that's pretty much it. Life moves on

Hope things work out OK in the end Andrew. All the best

Mike

Welcome Ed.

Once you start, you'll never stop! So be warned!

Loads of experience on this forum and plenty of friendly banter .

Enjoy.

The following might be of interest. Backplate fitting

This is downloadable pdf article from a trusted source (Arc Eurotrade) who show this on their website page that features backplates and is a article from a back issue of MEW.

Hope it helps, Mike

Didn't you mean an ER32 not ec32? If so, surely you can get a good direct fitting one quite reasonably from many sources, so why the need for a backplate? I can appreciate you wanting high accuracy for your set up, but the sort of lathe you appear to be talking about does not appear to sound like toolroom standard., And what about the spec of the collets themselves? (See many posts on this subject elsewhere on the forum).

Apologies if I've got totally the wrong end of the stick (not unusual)

Regards