Member postings for Peter Cook 6

John, Noel - the motor is clearly marked 60Hz 240V, and if you look at the closeup of the speed controller, inside the red box it looks like the one I linked to.

But I must confess I haven't tried my controller ( used for an old electric drill) on an induction motor. I wouldn't expect it to work.

Not sure that's an induction motor as its rated at 2950 rpm. More likely to be a universal brushed motor and the speed controller is probably one of these

Edited By JasonB on 03/10/2021 13:07:25

I assumed it was shot blasting given the surface finish that came out.

Natural pickling acid?

Martin K, doesn't that method rely on the surface plate being not only flat ( it should be) but also dead level.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 02/10/2021 14:43:37

I have the smallest FEMI which looks a lot like that one (except it's yellow). I got mine with Stakesys own brand table for vertical operation. After a bit of fettling (vertical alignment was out between saw and vice) it works well, and the table is superb for detail cutting.

Only issue I have with it is that because it's designed for angle cutting the gap between the face of the vice and the blade is quite large, and limits the shortest stock that can be cut. [I must put a clamping system on a piece of plate that I can hold in the vice so that I can cut shorter pieces of stock. - on the round tuit list]

May not be quite a purist approach, but depending on the temperatures expected could you not 3D print the funnel and epoxy in the tube and tap unit before finishing and painting?

If it's new, call the supplier and get it swapped.

Have you considered a washing machine drum spider. Three legs as a tripod base, and fixings for a couple of substantial bearings. The one on my old Bosch is a substantial lump of steel. Try the local scrapyard for an old (or not so old) machine.

The last time I (as a private individual) needed to ship a Lithium battery in the UK (phone battery return) the only carrier that I could find that would take it was (I think) FedEx. All the others I tried would only transport it if it was inside the device ( presumably making sure that the protective circuits were there).

They would only ship it ground (not a issue in the UK), and had some fairly strict labelling requirements - they provided the labels for me to print out.

That said my latest phone replacement battery (Ebay from a German supplier) arrived in a jiffy bag through the post!!

DHL probably do push stuff through a scanner at some point on it's journey. I was always told to post  unexposed  film ( remember that!) in a lead pouch because the post office X-ray'd things.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 10/09/2021 12:58:10

I use a Neoteck 4000 I got from Amazon. About £20. Came with all the leads including a temperature probe. Measures pretty much everything including capacitance, and frequency (which I find handy - saves getting out the oscilloscope).

Has a rubber casing for protection and a soft case for it and all the leads.

I have several others but this is so handy I use it for almost everything.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 07/09/2021 19:45:24

That would be the bean counters again. Aircraft engines are usually supplied by the maker on a full service basis - so making them easier (cheaper) to service would be in the makers interest. Household appliances on the other hand...!!

Peter G, it was a design issue. The bolts hold the damper into a U shaped bracket at each end. One leg of the U has a captive nut welded in. The other is a clearance hole for the bolt.

Three brackets are welded in place so that the nut is at the front of the washing machine and the bolt inserted from the back. One is welded in place so that the nut is at the rear of the machine and the bolt has to be inserted from the front.

There is nothing in the way at the back, so the bolt could have been inserted the same way round - if the bracket had been welded on the other way round. But it wasn't designed that way!!

As people have said its probably designed the way it is for the assembly process - but it really is a pain to service.

On the bright side on this machine the bearings are in a spider bolted to the back of the drum so changing them doesn't involve completely dismantling the machine as in more modern ones.

I swapped the dampers on my old (25years) Bosch washing machine today.

Four bolts. Two at the top holding the dampers to the drum. Two at the bottom attaching the dampers to the frame. All installed with captive nuts in U shaped brackets welded in place. Three of the bolts are installed from the back of the machine. Simples - socket on long extension bar and a reasonable amount of force freed them off.

But one is installed the other way round. Bolt head facing the front of the machine. Very awkward to get at from the back. And that one seems to have been fitted by a 600lb gorilla with a four foot bar!

After four hours of struggle I relented and disassembled the front of the machine. Long extension socket bar and a 1 metre length of 6mm steel bar as a t-bar finally shifted it. Modern machines use plastic pegs - so limited stress. One hour later it's all done!

Why oh why couldn't they have installed all four the same way round?

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 06/09/2021 21:17:47

Do they scroll with the bars, or stay put in the same place on the screen? If the latter you may have interference on the video cable, or possibly a display going bad. You would probably not notice them on a white background.

The screenshot would grab the pixels that are supposed to be there, rather than what you are actually seeing - hence the fact that they no-show on the screenshot.

If you can arrange a completely black image in a window (something like Paint should allow you to create one) then move it around the screen - that should show up any bad pixels.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 25/08/2021 19:14:59

+1 for Andrews suggestion of a Synology NAS as a backup device on the network.

I use one as my main backup. It backs up everything (operating system, programs and data etc.) once a week. It also backs up (using Synology's cloud station drive which behaves like cloud storage on the local network) every data file each time it changes. That may be overkill, but as it keeps - in my case five versions - it can be terribly handy if I accidentally delete something, or mess up an edit.

Recovery of a file is just a right click away, and does get tested ( far too often!)

I would have thought dividing to that precision would be well within the capabilities of the clockmakers of the time.

This is mid 19th century work.

The dial is 230mm across, the third wheel (centred in the dial) is about 75mm diameter and less than 1mm thick. I haven't counted the teeth. And I don't think I want to try and make it!

Do they need to be tapered. I would guess from a power transmission point of view they will be well over engineered.

A suggestion might be to modify the existing stub axles to simplify things.

Mill the existing outboard pieces as per the bottom diagram to remove the red bits. It's four straight cuts (two "vertical, two "horizontal) with a small milling cutter.

Then make the new components to the top design. This time only two cuts straight across. Without dimensions, I don't know what size cutters you might need, but if the gaps between the teeth in the centre are 1.6mm then a 1mm cutter will probably suffice.

PS thanks for the question, solving your problem has made me think again about the design of  adog clutch I have made.

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 11/08/2021 14:57:24

Sorry my geometry is too rusty to develop the equations, but a quick sketch gives

Jack, two quotes for your minimal workshop thread

"With the right tool most jobs are simple, with the wrong tool they become difficult or impossible"

"You will only use 10% of the stuff you have, trouble is you don't know which 10% until you need it".