Member postings for David-Clark 1

I forgot to mention, I was given my notice by email about December 18th about 2 or 3 days after moving into a new house.

Any book on ward and Herbert capstan lathes might be useful as well.

Mum had an overseas subscription problem where all us readers missed an issue.

They ended up having to reprint the magazine,

I would make sure you have a copy before back issues sell out.

I used to work at Westwind Air Bearings about 15 years ago.

They made water cooled drilling spindles for PCB boards etc.

Top speed was 360,000 rpm. They had a 500,000 rpm unit under test.

Although this is not particularly relevant to this thread, it shows that high speed drills are available and I believe they were 1/8 shank and made of tungsten carbide.

Perhaps the faster speeds of these small drilling machines /can be used by using these small drills.

K&S metals. Do you haven a mill? If so, clamp a bit of aluminium strip in the vice, clamp the brass on this piece of strip with another aluminium strip on top using a toolmakers clamp. Drill the holes and carefully drill the holes. Then mill round the edges to size. Remove aluminium, job done. I have done 0.1 mm shims like this.

Has anyone purchased an Excel 16 mm budget bench drill?

i don’t want to spend a lot of money but t.his has a good specification than some of the other budget drills, not least, 9 speeds and a 2 morse taper spindle.

Any comments or alternatives welcome.

Hi Leon

Welcome to the forum. The Stuart 10V is a good start to engine building.

TEE publishing do a little book called Building A steam Engine From Castings. It is in print and about £9 plus postage,

There is a very useful website called mainstream.co.uk about repairing badly built Stuart engines.

I am not saying your engine will be bad but if you see the problems other builders have had, you can avoid making the same mistakes.

There is also a you tube series about building the Stuart 10V by, I think, an American builder that is well worth watching although some of his machining methods were a but suspect.

Watching. This is another very interesting thread. I believe copyright (patent) lasts no more than 20 years so copyright on these old engines is out of date.

I would have thought a particular scale would be more important than standardising the flywheel diameter?

Thank you for the link Jason.I just spent several hours going through the site. Very interesting.

Does anyone know when the original Stuart 10V changed from a standard to an A frame.

Hi Larson.

That is a lovely engine. That is how I figured on doing it using a basic Stuart Kit with a new standard and lower cylinder cover.

Thank you for posting this.

I did not realise there were no unmachined castings. I did see a set on EBay but it was 20 years ago so they may have been machined.

Disclaimer. I have no connection with this seller.

This is a very old Stuart !0 V on EBay. It is only the second one I have ever seen and one was the casting kit/

This one is built (looks quite badly machined) but must have a rarity value.

If any one buys it please contact me as I would lie a few more details of it.

if any one has a set of drawings or better still a set of castings for this engine please let me know. Photographs welcome as well.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255486720992

It might be worth backing the metal with a bit of thin ply or similar to stop the metal bending when cutting.

I used to get my blades from hobbies in Norfolk and Squires in Bognor Regis. Both do mail order.

Turn the end of the shaft to root diameter if long enough to hold the thread true.

Can you post the photos here? Sounds like you may be a scraping expert? Perhaps a series in MEW about scraping.

Just, use rhis link

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255491488539?

I have no connection with this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255491488539?hash=item3b7c7abb1b:g:RRwAAOSwVP1iWsQZ

This brings back unhappy memories. Laminating hundreds of little transformers for the MOD. BORING.