Member postings for DiogenesII

GandM Tools have a tidy used 100mm TOS with both sets jaws etc. already on a Myford backplate listed at the moment - I have one, it's a solid and dependable chuck..

Edited By DiogenesII on 11/11/2020 06:32:23

Ramon, if your browser is set to delete all cookies on exiting, that will also "close the forum door" each time, although you can probably exempt it in the browser settings..

..and

?Taper half-angle

Straightness

Parallelism

Diameter

..I think..

Nice, by the way..

Edited By DiogenesII on 05/11/2020 07:26:20

EKP SUPPLIES and BA-BOLTS are two suppliers that list plain steel cheesehead down to 14BA.. ..others might too, those just sprang to mind..

I have and do use EKP, satisfactory fit & finish on the larger BA stuff I've had - I've seen BA-B recommended before, so probably fine as well.. ..there may be others..

By way of a "bump", this thread has a few pictures that might be useful for a quick visual comparison;

WM18 Power Feed

..or perhaps some "leads" for correspondence..

If it's any further help, I see the Warco unit suits a number of different models which are all listed under the same part number, so I'm guessing that there's some rationalisation of feedscrew sizes etc. across the range - are the handle (shaft) ends on your '30 17mm? - certainly the Warco Major's (listed as a suitable recipient for the kit) are.

If one can establish that the wormwheel will fit the shaft, that would be one of the more potentially-troublesome variables out of the way..

The feedscrew brackets/bearing housings look rather more variable - Whether fitting for all models is a simple like-for-like replacement of parts seems to be a moot point perhaps..?

Just remembered a neat little tappet adjusting tool from years ago ... it should be possible to make something similar to work with lock-nutted gib screws.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: Mine was by SPQR, but I think later ones are Gunson

... for our purposes we wouldn’t need the ‘click’ but the basic layout looks good to me

Edit: I’ve even found the patent

**LINK**

I didn't even know Sykes-Pickavant had a factory in Rome..

..Gunson still make them, (P/N G4094).

If I wanted one to experiment with, I'd look for a used SPQR one from a private seller - these items were a staple of autojumbles and "tat" stalls at rallies when we had such things (and we'd miss these people too, wouldn't we?), I think they're currently changing hands for about a tenner..

..Been mulling this over a bit - there doesn't need to be that much torque used to ?lock the nuts - they only need a light nip to stop the screws loosening - the whole operation only requires the tips of the fingers - once you can feel that some friction is present, thats enough..

Looking forward to seeing the finger mincer run - and progress on the Hoglet.. it's good to see some engines, thanks for posting

Always nice to see progress on the Thompson, I think it's a fascinating design - still can't work out whether it's the work of a genius or of the Devil, though..

And what's that carelessly-placed narrow-angle "V" on the bench behind?

..Hm..it's a bit of a long shot, but will the jaws go in backwards..? ..it might explain the eccentric offset and perhaps leave you with location for three pins that'll grip a disc the same size as the chuck..

I watch with interest.. I can also see that there could be advantages in freeing the top end of the spindle from a drawbar, too..

Nice project, I look forward to seeing developments..

..Same here - a note from my Postie telling me to collect from depot, duty where payable was inline with VAT and charged at collection..

It sounds like a scam.. I'm pretty sure £15 items are exempt from duty;

https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty

..and maybe try and give it some front clearance (angle).. it need only be small..

Likewise - I'll be sorry to see you go..

Can you not re-profile them so that they taper slightly - if you set them up (perhaps with pins/rods through the holes) in the vise and touch off on the "thin" side and then flip them over to reduce the "thick" side to the same dimension..? ..as the end radii are generated from the opposite hole, they won't look out of square - the eye won't have anything to pick-up on..

Is this for a riser block? ..Maybe canny working-out of bolt positions will enable you to locate them either where they need to be, or in some "dead" area where it doesn't matter - then you can bolt to the faceplate it as Hopper suggests, and (with a nod to Pete Rimmer) use a half centre to add some support the distal end whillst still allowing it to be faced.

If you can count the threads-per-inch, 3/8 Whit should be 16, 7/16 Unf will have 20..

The 7/16 Unf will look noticeably "fine" compared with M10, whilst Whit will look to be about the same pitch.

Might be worth seeing if your spindle bore will accept a piece of 12mm bar, and use treaded rod & a nut to make one - it'll be fine, strength-wise - and perhaps offer a greater range of tooling/suppliers.

Matthew, I do beg your pardon, but I have to ask whether you are absolutely sure it is M10 and couldn't possibly be the 3/8 Whitworth as indicated in the specification (from Nicholas) given above? The dimensions are, superficially at least, similar.

3/8 Whit is a common "Imperial" option for 3MT spindle tooling, so finding stuff that fits might become a little easier.

Sincere apologies if there is no doubt..

Not sure exactly what the prevalence of steel-framed buildings is in NZ, but here, nearly every non-domestic building of the last 40 years is done that way - hence "Mag-drills" have become a standard builders/farmers hire item..