Member postings for DiogenesII

..the phone and spectacles to read it with are the things I spend most time looking for..

Yes, I think I understood that right - mine is similar, a round body 50mm dia, with same arrangement of 12mm 'sockets' for the tool to sit in that are about 30mm deep.

Both my bars started 150mm long, this is too much stick-out, so I chopped the first one off so that once it is mounted in the head, the tool-tip will just pass through a 50mm workpiece before the head touches the work - like Andrew said in his first post, there is a limit to the depth you can reach with a bar of any given size and the shorter the better, so stick-out of about 4xd is just about do-able if not ideal.

The other bar was needed to reach past a raised feature on an alu. alloy part, so needed a longer shank - it chattered, but sharp ground inserts, lowering the speed, and careful cuts got the job done with an acceptable (-ish) finish.

I have a couple of cut-down SCLCR boring bars that I use in the boring head - one is about 85mm long and was cut down to do work up to 50mm thick which is about 90% of boring work I expect to do on the mill, I have another 110mm long because I needed extra reach (75mm) and cutting unwanted 40mm off it noticeably reduced chatter.

I still use both of them in the lathe..

I'd suggest 'Countersunk Socket Head Screws' in self coloured (plain black) 10.9 steel from a dedicated fastener supplier. Length includes head IIRC with these so M6x10 should do it.

..something like these?

GWR Fasteners Ebay Store - Socket Countersunk Screw...

..looks like 2.60 or so brings 5 (or 10) to the doormat..

Try holding the dovetailed part, and gently tapping on alternate sides of the ring with a bit of wood, see if the round base will 'walk' off the boss and roll-pin a little at a time..

As a kind of postscript;

I've stumbled across the descriptions of a couple of 'cheap' QC toolposts, the bodies (and maybe holders?) appear to be 'aluminium' - whilst I'm sure that they are well engineered and perfectly adequate, I hadn't until now realised that this was a thing - for long term durability and potentially demanding use I think the all-steel models are probably a much better buy, even if the cost is more.

Harold Hall's 'Metalworkers Data Book' is a cheap source of useful stuff like D/H tables and much else; the D/H tables are pretty thorough and IIRC (mine's in the workshop) lists alternative ways of arriving at the wanted division.

Nigel, R8 stuff can also come with UNF threads

140,000,000 miles of zero-gravity travel with dogs....what's not to like..? ..a few big tins of Butcher's Tripe Mix to keep 'em going on the way, should be fun..

Wedge type. Fiddling with shims with oily fingers in a chip-filled four-way is the devil's idea of a joke.

Redundant

Edited By DiogenesII on 22/07/2023 13:58:29

When I built my Boll 1.8 ci, I used a (-actually, I'll have to check - oops), I think it would be a fairly 'safe' place to start for initial set-up with the Humbug - but happily defer to those with greater experience, I'm a rank beginner.

I think at least it would give you a sense of 'what it wants'

Edit - just seen Clive's post - better advice, maybe..

Edited By DiogenesII on 22/07/2023 13:10:38

Edited By DiogenesII on 22/07/2023 13:16:51

Have you tried accessing it through a new 'log in' page resulting from a search?

The GH stand comprises two vertical cabinets that act as 'legs' with a steel back-panel between and 2 shelves. They are topped by a full size tray with folded sides and welded corners and the whole lot together forms an adequately stiff structure.

Mine arrived with the lathe, think they were on the same pallet, crated lathe on the bottom, stand components on top, whole lot wrapped in transport film.

I moved mine (twice) as outlined by Jason, put a couple of bits of 4x2 under / against the bed to keep the slings off the leadscrew, I slung mine under the bed against the headstock and simply used a small ratchet strap between the hook and the tailstock end to level the thing up.

A 2t engine crane will lift it at full boom extension no problem.

When I ordered mine I asked them to stick enough oil to do a complete 'first change' on the pallet, I can't remember how much it was, buit it certainly wasn't much in the grand scheme of things.. ..it's plain hydraulic oil as Nigel says.

There is a certain amount of noise from the gears - they're straight cut, after all, but it's not, like, awful.. ..I don't use the splashback on mine, might make a difference I guess..

The carbide dogma business - never had issues using competently-manufactured CC*T inserts either ground or standard, I use them for all plain turning facing and boring work, along with carbide inserts for threading - 'though I also use HSS and carbon steel at times - they all have different qualities & uses.

Your description brought to mind a fretwork set I was given at a similar age; not only are the company who made it still going, they still stock the same items and seem as popular as ever.. ..I wonder whether yours is the same..?

Pebaro.de - Tools - Fretwork drill

It's a difficult part to measure - the critical dimension is from the centre of the leadscrew to the centre of the bolt that holds the plate to the end of the round bar 'bed' that the saddle slides on..

..the other holes only really need to be 'close enough'..

Let us know how you get on.. ..I can measure a Hobbymat one if that helps..

Do you understand how the carriage locking mechanism works; at the back of the saddle, as well as the clamp screws, there is probably a forcing screw that must be screwed in to expand the slot and allow the saddle to slide along the carriage freely - it's usually a shorter screw, and it's head may be proud of the casting...

It's an arrangement that causes much confusion, there are previous discussions if you search "MD65" in the box above..

It was probably the leadscrew being forced whilst the saddle was locked that had caused the plate to fail.

Heritage Lathes has a bracket in his Ebay store;

Ebay Heritage Lathes - MD65 Leadscrew Spindle Plate

I've dealt with him before, he seems a decent human being and will probably respond to a polite message if you want to check dimensions first..

Looks like a good day out, I used to love a good rummage in a scrapyard, but not so easy to get access these days.

..too easy to collect 500Kg of 'useful' things, and then the pain of what to keep, what to abandon..

The gears stay where they are, it's the face-dogs between them that move up and down and engage or disengage the drive - watching these whilst you operate the levers should give you a clue - have the dogs broken / worn off?

Sometimes the number of manual spindle rotations that have to be made before the dogs will align / engage are greater than one might expect.

Check that the selector levers are engaged correctly with the actuating mechanism.

I used a pair of 1/2" flip-cap oil cups (as below) with a bit of oil-resistant foam that loosely 'fills' about half the depth (cut from a strimmer air filter)..

..filling to wet the foam easily holds enough for a couple of hour's work, if you poke it with a screwdriver / scriber you can see whether there is still oil in it or not..

StationaryEngineParts - Flip Lid Oil Cups