Member postings for Ron Laden

A bit better focus I think.

Apologies for the thread dragging on but life and health (don't ask) just got in the way especially of late. However I did manage a few productive hours in the shop last week and the loco is as finished as its going to be. I still have the two cabs to fit out but they can wait.

So all been well if I continue to improve the track test is not far away and I hope to get some video of how things go.

Picture below of it desperate to be sitting on some rails..

Thanks John, that is true if you are working to a given radius (I wasn't on the buffers) then the rod needs to be the length of that radius dimension and set parallel to the bed. Also with a 50mm radius you can see that the rod would be too short to run between the head and the cross slide so a fixed extension is needed as seen in the John P picture. Thinking about it the extension doesn't have to come off the head if it's easier then something clamped across the bed would also work.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 28/09/2021 05:20:39

I have used the guide rod method a few times, its simple, quick to do and works a treat.

A picture below of the convex face I turned on the class 22 buffers.

Ron

I went for the small set of finger collets, 6, 10, 12 and 16mm although I have used all of them it's the 6 and 10mm that's gets used the most as they take the majority of my regularly used cutters.

I suppose one could argue that with just a small protrusion and a direct fit in the mills R8 taper they must be stiffer than a tool mounted in a chuck with a 40mm extension from the taper. However having said that the R8 collet chuck is quite a rigid bit of tooling and I suspect that in practice you would never see any difference between it and the finger collets.

Something that Jason has mentioned on occasion and which I have found to be true is when using the smaller cutters they get a bit lost under the spindle when mounted in a finger collet. With a small protusion and been so close to the spindle it can be difficult to see the cutter, especially on flat work down close to the mill table. You have to bend down to get the tool at eye level should you need to see/watch it or mount the work higher if possible, just something to be aware of.

Ron

Pleased your generally happy with the Soba 5 inch table it should serve you well. I must have been lucky with mine I have 1.5 minutes backlash at the handwheel and 0.0015" at the table edge. In a full 360 degree rotation I have a couple of spots each about 15 degrees worth where it goes a tad light but hardly noticeable.

Don't forget you can gain around 40mm in Z if you use finger collets against using the collet chuck. I have a 6mm and 10mm which take most of my regular cutters. I mainly use the collet chuck but if you have a tall job plus a table mounted vice or chuck it could make all the difference to fitting the job and tooling in. The 40MM extra on mine is based on my finger collets against the collet chuck both from ARC.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/09/2021 09:53:53

What do you call stiff, if its so stiff you think its stressing the connection to the table then something is clearly wrong and I would suspect the mounting of the unit. What did it feel like before it was mounted..? With the reader head fixing released the connecting bracket should be just touching the mounting position there should be no gap or over close which would put pressure on the head when fixed. 

If your mounting is good and the unit is as stiff as you suggest then it's obviously faulty.

Do NOT lubricate the rail it needs to be clean and dry, ARC say in their spec that the units need protection from swarf and coolant etc. I made up guards/covers for mine from 25 x 25 x 1.5 alu angle, simple to do and works well.

Edited By Ron Laden on 18/09/2021 05:23:15

Edited By Ron Laden on 18/09/2021 05:44:32

I agree, that really does look very nice indeed. I have always thought when building up wings/frames etc it seems a pity to the skin the structure in balsa/solar film etc hiding all the detail. Much nicer to see the build as you have with the see through tissue.

At 44 ozs I would think it should fly well with a 40 size engine.

Good luck with it.

Ron

I went with increasing the overall light level over all of the lathe, I prefer that to just highlighting the workpiece with spot type lights. So I fitted a LED cabinet strip light from Screwfix under the shelf above the lathe, works really well. The lights come in various lengths based on kitchen cabinet sizes and various wattage. What is really neat about them is they are linkable and come with a cable to connect them end to end so you can have a string of them, up to eight..? I think..? from one plug in to a wall socket.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 05/09/2021 05:25:55

Ti's up to you if you choose to use your Mitutoyo for scribing lines but for me I would use your old caliper and save your Mitutoyo and keep it pristine as much as possible.

I have a Mitu and a cheapie caliper but I don't tend to scribe with them. For marking out to get a feel for general positioning etc I just use a quality steel rule a small square and a sharp scriber. Where I need accuracy I use a height gauge (non digital) and angle plate, I know some say they hardly ever use theirs but I use mine a lot.

My vice keys get the vice within 0.002" to 0.003" I always clock the vice and it only takes a couple of minutes to get it pretty much spot on, under 0.001".

My SX2P doesn't have the largest of tables so I only mount one item on the table and my vice lives on the table most of the time. Mounting both the vice and rotary table at the same time would put them both at the ends of the table which depending on the job could mean running out of travel in one direction.

Have a look at MFA COMO DRILLS they have a large selection of motors and motors with gearboxes, they also give the full spec for all their types.

Hi guys,

I decided to get another diesel sound card for the loco (wiring diagram below), its a different type to the old one I had which went pop.

I think I have said before I am ok with basic wiring but when it comes to electronics I am a bit dull to say the least. The motors, batteries, speed controller and isolator are fine thats how I have them wired already. I understand that the pair of 10K resistors to the motor control prevent the voltage from exceeding 24 volts and the sound card is fed with 12 volts. I,m ok with the rest of the wiring but what I dont understand is how the 16v capacitor, 1K ohm and 100 ohm resistors and the way they are connected to the amplifier stereo jack are working. It would great if one of you guys can explain what is happening there, it would just be good to know.

Thanks

Ron

If you do eventually go for a rotary table for your SX2P then Jason's suggestion of a 5 inch version is a good one, I have a 5 inch Soba which I bought as a set. I also have a cheapie 4 inch rotary but it's just too small for a lot of work and 6 inch would be too big on a SX2.

I think 5 inch tables are thin on the ground compared to 4 & 6 inch versions that's why I went with the Soba it came with a dividing set, 80mm 4 jaw and mounting plate plus a tailstock and it suited my pocket at the time. There are one or two small areas which are a bit rough around the edges but overall the quality is very good. Most importantly the operation is very smooth, no tight spots, no significant backlash or play and very good accuracy. You can no doubt find tables with top end quality but you will need very deep pockets and will they be significantly more accurate than the Soba 5 inch I have, I doubt that. 

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 16/08/2021 05:58:23

I didn't stand my SX2 on a plinth I positioned it so the front of the base casting was at the front edge of the bench which means the Y handwheel over hangs and is clear of the bench. The bottom of the X handwheel sits 2 inches above the bench and is fine.

Ron

Glad I read this thread I didnt realise you can use all 4 edges of the CCMT/GT inserts I just assumed you could only use the 80 degree sides not knowing you can get holders for the 100 degree sides, just ordered an 8mm holder.

Thanks Jason, wouldnt have known had I not seen your mention of it.

Ron

I have my SX2P sitting on an extension to one end of a bench, made up of a 2" x 1" top frame clad with two thicknesses of 12mm ply standing on four 3" x 2" legs and its fine.

Looking at your bench I don't think you will have any problems assuming the worktop sits on top of the cabinets which you say it does it will be more than strong enough.

Re a swarf/oil tray I found a shallow baking tray which the mill base sits in, saves having to make one. If you search around you can find quite large ones that fit larger type ovens.

Ron

Do I take it Jason there is no UK supplier of HSS inserts.

Ron

I have also found the ARC DRO,s to be accurate enough on all I have done to date. It would be nice to have all the features on a display with all the bells and whistles. PCD,s for instance but a minute spent with a calculator is hardly a drama so I haven't bothered to upgrade, when I change over to a larger mill I will.

Edited By Ron Laden on 06/08/2021 07:17:38