Member postings for Mark Gould 1

The part where the seal sits measures 7/16 so I had to guess a metric equivalent as I am in the Netherlands.

Ok thanks David

Michael,

Many thanks, I should have turned to my Google fu before asking! I have asked Myford for the appropriate size and will order 1 or 2 from Barnwell.

Thanks again,

Mark

Gents,

Our gearbox is leaking and I have a feeling its leaking at the drain plug. I have a rubber o-ring on it now but that hasn't really helped.

According to the parts list, this part is called a Dowty Seal I have contacted Myford and they don't have them.

Does anybody here know where I could order one of these?

Thanks,

Mark

George,

It is a LED ring that attaches via magnets to the bottom of the milling head, around the spindle. I bought it on eBay but to be honest I am going to replace it with a larger diameter ring. This ring has an internal diameter which is 2mm larger than the spindle thickness and so the light is concentrated around the spindle. A collet/drill chuck or shell mill actually blocks the light from getting to the cutting surface.

I am going to get a larger one with a 100mm diameter (€8 on Banggood) to see whether it clears the tool. Keep you posted.

Mark

Here is our lathe, a Super 7 rebuilt to new here in the Netherlands by a MyFord specialist.

...and our small milling machine, an Emco FB-2.

And then the first machining on our new Stuart No. 1:

Sorry guys, I am struggling with photos in my album, they're all rotated incorrectly. Bear with me while I sort it out.

Dad and I have started our Stuart No.1. We started with the easy parts. Here's our progress so far. 

Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 07/11/2018 11:27:42

Angle plates, 1,2,3 blocks, cutting fluid, a nice P&B chuck, a nice rotary table, a welding course, another Stuart set of castings, beter LED lighting, an airconditioning system for the garage, a set of Mitutoyo micrometers, a set of pin gauges, a nice gauge blck set, a surface plate, a height gauge, a quality set of Dormer drills and/or reamers........

Mark, like you I am a beginner too and I decided, with my Dad to start on a Stuart No. 1 steam engine. We have been preparing and “tooling up” for about a year and have recently started out project. Nothing too complicated and lots of learning experiences to be had.

Mark

Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 05/11/2018 17:34:35

Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 05/11/2018 17:35:02

I just bought some WCMX inserts from them at the MME show. Very nice people to deal with and very knowledgeable too.

Dad and I will be there on the friday.

That sounds like a reasonable explanation Mick. As a novice I can even hope to answer that but it sounds logical enough. Still, as others have said, there are options open to me.

Option 1 is to see if this backplate and new chuck run true. That solves the hole discussion except for the mounting options (back to front or front to back).

Option 2 is to buy a new backplate and machine it on my machine as a snug fit. Drill and tap holes in backplate. Good concentricity but no way to compensate for chuck run out.

Option 3 is to use the old backplate sans spigot and make the chuck “moveable” to a degree to enable me to compensate for the chuck run out.

Howard, now I get it thanks. The old chuck came with a backplate already machined for it. So not machined on my lathe.

Thanks to all for the wisdom and advice. As Howard says, that chances of the old backplate being absolutely true with a different chuck are small so I will buy a new backplate from Myford and turn it to fit this chuck and then use the long P&B bolts front to back to fasten it.

Thanks again,

Mark

@pgk pgk,

yes thats the strange part. The chuck also has its holes threaded about 8mm deep (measured from the chucks back face).

@ Howard,

The backplate mounts directly onto the Myford mandrel. You propose to rotate the backplate slightly and drill/tap new holes 120 deg apart and use the P&B long bolts?

Gents,

I recently bought a new P&B 125mm chuck without a backplate. By chance I found a 125mm backplate that fits like a glove. Almost as of it was made for my new chuck, but here's the dilemma: the backplate holes are not tapped. It is mounted to the chuck with 3 bolts that go from the backplate into the back of the chuck. I can mount it this way to the new chuck without a problem.

Now the P&B chuck came with 3 mounting bolts (long ones) that go from the chucks face, through the chuck and screw into what I assume must be tapped holes in the backplate. So that would be going the other way.

Does it matter which method is used? The one disadvantage I can think of is the empty holes on the chuck face but other than that?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

Mark

Good to hear, I have ordered quite a bit of stuff from Arc Euro and have been very satisified with everything,

Gents, thanks for taking the time to answer. I will look into it all. My main worry is the painted parts. I know the machines are painted with machine grade paint but I dont want to ruin it,

Thanks again,

Mark

+1. Another vote for the Reilang. Buy the metal body type though. I have had a plastic Reilang before but it wasn’t very good at all.

Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 12/08/2018 20:04:30