Member postings for Martin Cargill

From your photos it looks like the drive is ready to go ( the RDY on the display). To give further assistance:

Can you photograph the wiring that you have going into the drive.

A photograph of a sketch of the wiring would also help.

Also a list of the parameters and what you have them set to would also help

Martin

Check the transformer voltage before you source a contactor. My old Student had a 48 volt control circuit

Martin

A quick google found the manual I didn't download it but it will probably have a "quick start" guide. The manufacturer will have a technical helpline that should give you assistance with parameter issues.

Martin.

The "Test Number" probably was an incremental series. We work with a lot of old Wadkin machines (I work for a company that sells, repairs and refurbishes woodworking machines) but we have never tried to decode the number sequence as it seems to be a factory log of final test results, without (and even with) the factory paperwork it is of no use to us.

The cutter grinder that you refer to is a completely different beast. It is for cutting profiles onto the blades of moulding machines (the type of machine that produces something like old style skirting boards or decking etc.) It copies a pre prepared pattern and grinds the blades to match it. The blades are held in the cutter block from the woodworking machine while they are being ground.

Re "Test Number" Most older Wadkin Machines have this unique number stamped on the ID plate. It seems to be a factory reference number for the machines final testing

Spent ages with a similar problem at work. Changed everything that we could (including the whole euro torch assembly). Problem persisted until the day we changed the reel of wire. Couldn't see or find anything wrong with the old reel, but changing it cured the problem

Have a look at the motor rating plate and see what power rating it has. It's surprising how many power tools are equipped with a motor that's nowhere near big enough for the job

A box of matches would have seen it off the pallet

We have found that" Cillit Bang" works well for machine cleaning.

If you want to equip a pillar drill with an emergency stop its worth considering a kick stop. The operation of a pillar drill tends to involve you holding either the part being drilled or holding a vice with your left hand and operating the quill with your right hand. If something goes wrong (normally involving the drill sticking in the hole) which one do you let go to stop the drill...…….A kick stop allows you to stop the drill without letting go with either hand.

Martin

I have killed trees by cutting them down and then removing as much stump as possible. What remains of the stump was drilled and filled with neat weedkiller.

On the old fashioned Lucas "standard" setup as fitted to series Land - Rovers we used to swap the vehicles from positive earth to negative earth by :-

A. Swap the battery leads

B, Swap the low tension connectors on the coil

C, Reverse the connections to the ammeter

D. Remove the D and F terminals from the regulator and take the F wire and brush it against the A terminal then replace the D and F wires.

Have you tried their Technical helpline? Most invertor suppliers provide telephone technical backup for their products and their engineers are very good at guiding you through the setup for their products.

How about using two brass cup nosed grub screws in the legs of the forks. The wheel could then be dimpled in the centre at either side. A small single ball bearing at each side could be held between the two grub screws and the wheel to act as the bearing. Wear should be minimal but a little lubrication would help minimise this. The grub screws can be adjusted inwards to deal with any wear that appears.

ebay item 122919447525

Stripped one about 4 months ago. Thread is left handed. I know because my colleague and I stripped the thread inside the knob (its a brass insert inside the knob). Luckily we had a suitable LH tap and were able to rethread a RH knob to make a replacement.  Like you we couldn't work out why it should be left handed - perhaps multico had a parts bin full of LH knobs

Martin

Edited By Martin Cargill on 20/05/2018 17:45:40

The knob is a left hand thread.

A bore gauge? Are the knurled bits removable in stages? do you measure between the two points?

Not quite the same, but my workshop vice has turned itself into a horseshoe magnet....

Martin

I bought a caravan alarm for my old lockup. Worked from a 12 volt battery and with its own sim card it could be switched on/off with its keyfob remote or by text message. If activated it could text 3 different numbers and phone the main number (so that you could hear the burglars at work!). It would also inform you of which circuit had tripped. It could also activate a relay to switch on lights and/or a camera, All for £130

Martin